lighthouses – The Voyages of Nine Lives

August 16 to September 9: Gore Bay to Drummond Island

We left Gore Bay on a calm morning. The water was as smooth as glass, and, unusually, continued so all the way to Meldrum Bay. We had read about the restaurant at Meldrum Bay Inn, and decided that, with so many Loopers raving about it, we had to try it. Fortunately, we made a reservation. It is a difficult dilemma for Loopers. On the one hand, making, and trying to follow, a schedule, is something of a no-no. It will tend to lead to poor decisions with respect to weather conditions and sea state. On the other hand, marinas fill up during high season, as do the nicer restaurants. Dick and I try to take a middle road. We have a plan, with rough dates, but the plan is adjusted as we travel, to allow for weather delays and to add some flexibility to destinations. For holiday weekends, or if there is to be a festival in town, we make marina reservations several weeks in advance, since they can always be cancelled. Most other marina bookings are made less than a week ahead, and we also make restaurant reservations as soon as we know there is a reasonable chance that we will get there on the day we expect.

This has stood us well this summer, both for the marinas and also for the restaurants. We felt bad for several boaters who arrived in Meldrum Bay expecting a great dining experience, only to be told that the restaurant was fully booked. There are no other eating out options, and not much reason to stop there without the restaurant. Later we were surprised to discover that in fact those boaters could have been accommodated, had we known. The owner takes bookings for tables, most of which seat 4 to 6 people, and once her tables are booked, she refuses reservations. I overheard her saying “I let the boaters sort it out among themselves”, in other words, we could easily have asked the people on one of the other boats to join us, had we known, as almost all of the tables had only two people seated. A strange way to do business. As it happened, the meal was reasonable but not the exceptional experience we had been led to expect. A night in one of the anchorages we had chosen to miss would have been more enjoyable.

Yes, because we had a schedule, we skipped some of the highly recommended experiences of Georgian Bay’s North Channel. Dick’s mother’s 90^th birthday party was coming up, so we needed to be in Sault Ste Marie by a specific date in order to pick up a rental car and return to Trenton for the festivities.

Gore Bay early morning 2 — The marina at Gore Bay in early morning

Gore Bay early morning — Gore Bay anchorage, water like glass and perfect reflections

Meldrum Bay key lime pie — Key Lime Pie at Meldrum Bay Inn

Meldrum Bay shortcake — Berry shortcake at Meldrum Bay Inn

From Meldrum Bay we were expecting an easy crossing of the North Channel to Blind River. Sadly, both the wind direction and the wave heights were quite different from what was forecast. We had a very uncomfortable ride, with the waves broadside, causing a corkscrew motion that was most unpleasant. We ran fast, and were in by 10:30am, after which I needed to just sit still for a couple of hours in order to feel more like myself! Blind River has little to offer boaters, as the marina is about a mile from the town, but we were delighted to get a message to say that our friends Brenda and Bruce on B-Side were on their way. Their upcoming plans required a weather window that was likely to close if they didn’t make some adjustments, giving us an unexpected reunion.

Like much of Georgian Bay’s North Channel, the area was first settled by fur traders, loggers, and miners. A sawmill was built at the mouth of the river originally known as the Penewobecong. Europeans named it the Blind River, because the mouth of the river was hard to see along the canoe route of the voyageurs. The protected estuary with deep water offshore was a good location for a mill at a time when all trade was carried by water. The copper mine at nearby Bruce Mines was a good customer for the logging industry and sawmill, providing timber and planks for the mine. For 40 years from 1929, the McFadden Lumber Company operated the largest white pine sawmill east of the Rockies. The mill finally closed in 1969, but a few years earlier, uranium was discovered in the area. While a local mine was short-lived, a refinery was built nearby in 1983 and still operates, producing uranium trioxide and providing employment for the area. The Trans-Canada Highway runs through the centre of the town.

Blind River early morning — The old burner unit from the sawmill at Blind River

That evening we all decided to ride bicycles into town to the best rated restaurant. We got our bikes off the boat, and after walking them along the dock we were ready to ride them along the boardwalk towards the road. As my companions headed out, I prepared to get on my bike when it decided to lean affectionally towards me, rather like a large and friendly dog. There was a moment where I realized what was in my immediate future, and then I subsided gracefully to the boardwalk, with the bike landing on top. At this point I was very glad I had decided to carry my bike helmet on my head! I was also glad the landing surface was wood instead of gravel. The only damage was to my dignity. And I did subside gracefully, that’s my story and I’m sticking to it!

We rode to the restaurant and enjoyed such a convivial last evening together that we rather lost track of the time and ended up riding back in the dark. Fortunately, we were able to take back roads with little traffic, since the bike lights I had purchased had been deemed unnecessary by the man who would have had to take the time to clip them onto the bikes.

Blind River sunset — Sunset at Blind River

Our planned very early start the next morning was somewhat delayed by fog. After about an hour it cleared, so we set off, only to have it close in again. For only the second time this season we needed to run with the radar on a split screen with the chart, luckily no other boats were around. It is a strange and eerie feeling to be out on the water with nothing to be seen around you except your wake! The fog lifted fairly quickly and we were in Thessalon by 11:15. In the afternoon the wind and waves really kicked up and we were glad to be off the North Channel. There was one other Looper boat in, Idyll Time, and we enjoyed docktails later that evening aboard Nine Lives.

travelling in fog 3 — Travelling in fog means using the radar on a split screen with the chartplotter.

travelling in fog — Looking back, fog all around us

travelling in fog 2 — A hole in the fog shows there is blue sky above!

Our passage to Richard’s Landing on August 20^th was very pleasant, although the wind picked up later and again, we were glad of our early start. Richard’s Landing is a tiny but well-kept town with a very popular Italian restaurant on the dock. It was completely filled outside on the deck and a fair few tables occupied inside even though it was a Monday night. We enjoyed a wander around the town and spent some time in a very nice shop that featured all kinds of local arts and crafts. After buying a beautiful new wooden chopping board and a pair of moccasins for Dick, both destined for our home in UK, we felt the need to refresh ourselves with ice cream! The next morning, we departed for Sault Ste Marie and a two-week break.

North Channel lighthouse 2 — A historic lighthouse on Georgian Bay’s North Channel

North Channel 2 — The North Channel on our way to Richard’s Landing

North Channel lighthouse — Another historic lighthouse on the North Channel

Richards Landing — The village of Richard’s Landing built this picturesque lighthouse on their harbour

Richards Landing 2 — A gardener in Richard’s Landing with a sense of humour

Mum’s birthday gathering went very well, with all members of the family present including Dick’s sister Judy’s family. They made the long trek from northern Alberta, camping on the way. It was wonderful for Mum to be surrounded by all of her children, grandchildren, and great grandchildren for this momentous birthday!

Dick and I enjoyed the trip very much, returning by road to some of the special locations we had visited earlier by boat. We stocked up on chocolates in Lakefield, and finally managed to try Cassis Bistro there. We also returned to Picton to collect our beautiful sculpture and enjoyed a very nice afternoon chatting with Paul Verrall and his wife Donna in their garden. We picked up our vehicle from Dick’s brother, and returned in convoy by a different route, that took us through the heart of Ontario’s cottage country. I may say that I enjoyed the Kawarthas, Muskoka, and Haliburton much more from the water than I did driving. We stopped for a night at the Log Cabin Inn at Parry Sound, having had such a nice meal a few weeks earlier. Sadly, I think we had the b-team in the kitchen on our second visit. The meal was acceptable but nothing to write home about.

Nine Lives was waiting for us in Sault Ste Marie, having snoozed for a week. Other boaters had kept an eye on her, and even adjusted her lines on a rough day without asking, just another example of how helpful and considerate the boating community can be.

Sault Ste Marie marina — The marina at Sault Ste Marie is brand new, but there were very few boaters by the last week of August.

The twin cities of Sault Ste Marie sit across from each other on the St Mary’s River. The Ojibwe used the location at the bottom of the rapids as a meeting place during whitefish season. The treaty that ended the War of 1812 set the border between United States and what was to become Canada along the river, dividing what had been one city into two. The rapids drop the level of the water from Lake Superior to the lower lakes of Michigan and Huron by 20 feet, so a canal and lock was built in 1798 to solve the problem of having to portage around the rapids. This first canal was destroyed during the War of 1812, and after the treaty, trade passed through Soo Locks, on the American side of the river. In 1895 a Canadian canal was built after an unfortunate diplomatic incident between the two countries. At the time it opened, the Canadian Sault Ste Marie Canal contained the largest lock in the world, and the first to be electrically operated. This lock was shut down in 1987, and a new, much smaller lock was built within the old lock, completed in 1998. Today the Canadian lock carries recreational and tour boat traffic, while the much larger commercial ships use the Soo Locks. The Soo Locks are the world’s busiest canal in terms of tonnage, in spite of being closed each year from January through March. We watched a number of freighters and tankers pass into the locks from our vantage point in the marina.

Dick spent a summer working at what was then Algoma Steel in Sault Ste Marie when he was a student. At the time it was a huge and important steel mill, today it is owned by an Indian company, and is a much smaller operation.

Sault Ste Marie bridge — The international bridge connecting the twin cities of Sault Ste Marie

Sault Ste Marie Gliss — Steak and shrimp at Gliss Restaurant in Sault Ste Marie

Nine Lives in Sault Ste Marie marina at sunset.

The commentary on the Agawa Canyon train told some of the story of the visionary businessman Francis Clergue, who arrived in Sault Ste Marie, backed by a consortium of Philadelphia businessmen, in the early 20^th century. A hydro-electric dam, a paper mill, the steel plant, part of the Algoma Central Railway, and two mines were all part of the interconnected empire he created. Sadly, like many fast-growing businesses before and since, cash flow was insufficient to fund the growth, and while most of his enterprises continued, some to this day, Clergue was unable to maintain the empire and in 1903 he was forced out. He left Sault Ste Marie and never lived there again. The paper mill closed in 2011, and has now been repurposed into a mixed-use cultural and tourism hub. The Algoma Conservatory of Music occupies one of the restored buildings, while another contains several restaurants and an events venue. A farmer’s market is also on the site, and a new station for the Agawa Canyon Railway Tour is planned. We ate in the steak house and also the pizza restaurant, and enjoyed both the food and the ambiance. It is so nice to see beautiful historic industrial buildings being preserved instead of knocked down.

Sault Ste Marie converted mill — The beautiful converted paper mill in Sault Ste Marie now houses several restaurants and an events venue

pizza at Breakfast Pig — We enjoyed breakfast one morning at The Breakfast Pig, I tried a breakfast pizza, it was delicious!

On August 30^th we set off very early for the famous train journey to Agawa Canyon. The Canyon was not formed by glaciation as one would usually expect in this part of the world. Instead it is part of an ancient rift valley, created through faulting 1.2 billion years ago. This trip is 8 hours of travel for a 90-minute stop. It was nice enough, but not worth it. I believe that 15 or 20 years ago it was a very different experience. We could see that the brush and small trees have been allowed to grow up all alongside the tracks, so that the scenery is almost entirely a green tunnel punctuated with very quick glimpses of the views that would be marvellous if you could actually see them. The trip is likely nicer once the fall colours develop, but even that will not change the complete lack of the views of the rivers, lakes, and Lake Superior that we had looked forward to.

Agawa Canyon train depot — At the depot on board the Agawa Canyon train

Agawa Canyon train 2 — A glimpse of one of the lakes as we ride the train towards Agawa Canyon

Agawa Canyon train — The best moment on the train, as we passed over a trestle and could see the power plant far below

Agawa Canyon park 4 — The train and Agawa Canyon park

Agawa Canyon river 2 — Agawa Canyon River

Agawa Canyon from viewpoint — Dick climbed the 372 steps to the Canyon Overlook

Agawa Canyon park root cellar — A root cellar in Agawa Canyon. We have no idea who or what it was for.

Agawa Canyon waterfall 2 — One of the two waterfalls you can visit in Agawa Canyon

Agawa Canyon park — The train waits to begin the 4 hour return journey to Sault Ste Marie

A few days later we went for a drive along the route taken by the train. We had hoped to see the railway trestles from the land, as well as the dam and possibly some of the fall colours, but we were frustrated in those goals. However, it was an enjoyable drive and we did get to see some of Lake Superior and the very pretty Chippewa Falls. The Falls demonstrate some of the fascinating layers of geology that we were told about on the train. We could see ancient rocks smoothed by glaciers, and darker areas that were laid down by lava flows.

Chippewa Falls 4 — Chippewa Falls. Notice all the different kinds of rock.

Chippewa Falls 3 — Clear water and a hint of autumn at Chippewa Falls

Another view of Chippewa Falls, popular with fishermen.

wildflowers by the roadside — Wildflowers by the roadside

SS Edmund Fitzgerald was an America Great Lakes freighter that sank in a storm in November 1975 with the loss of all aboard. When launched in 1958, she was the largest ship on the Great Lakes, and is still the largest ever sunk there. Although the story was later immortalized in Gordon Lightfoot’s song, “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald” the following year, I can definitely remember listening to the radio as the tragedy and the search for the missing freighter unfolded. The sinking led to improvements in Great Lakes shipping regulations and various safety practices. As we looked out into Alona Bay at the deep blue waters and endless horizon of Lake Superior it was not hard to imagine very different conditions in November. We have experienced changing forecasts, and conditions that are not as expected, often enough on our own voyages to be able to understand how it is possible to run into problems. Whether it is the ocean, lakes, or even rivers, it is important to respect the dangers and remember that boating is nothing like driving on roads.

Alona Bay viewpoint — This was the view from the scenic outlook at Alona Bay. Why they build a pullout on the highway and don’t cut down the brush so one can actually see something, I do not know.

A better view of Lake Superior from further down the highway

The Trans-Canada Highway began construction in 1950, intended to provide an unbroken transcontinental route across Canada. In several places along the route there is more than one designated route, and the numbering is not consistent from province to province. However, the entire length and all the variations carry a white on green maple leaf route marker. The highway officially opened in 1962, and was completed in 1971. At Chippewa Falls we read about “The Gap”, a 56-mile portion of the highway that was considered one of the most difficult parts to construct due to topography and the hardness of the granite. Construction was stopped until 4 men from Wawa walked the route through the bush to Sault Ste Marie and met with officials to demonstrate the desperate need for the highway for the residents of Wawa. This area is considered the half way point of the transcontinental highway. Dick and I found the story interesting, having driven nearly all of the highway, including most of the variations, over the years. One day we will have to complete the piece in Newfoundland and the last part of Quebec that we have not visited.

We enjoyed great docktails aboard Nine Lives one evening with other boaters, not Loopers this time. One couple are Sault Ste Marie locals. He is a commercial diver and instructor, and owns a restored tug as well as a large trawler. They seem to divide their time between his work and a farm, and live partly aboard the boat as well. The other couple are from Ohio, he is a firefighter.

September 3^rd was very rainy and windy. Dick visited both the Bush Plane Museum and the historic lock while I made a set of prints of the birthday gathering for Mum. We were also watching the progress of Hurricane Dorian as it threatened the east coast and Hilton Head. After a few days of increasing concern, I am glad to be able to say that our area was essentially unaffected, apart from the inconvenience of the mandatory evacuation.

Arturos red snapper — Dick enjoyed red snapper with pumpkin ravioli at Arturo’s in Sault Ste Marie

Arturos shrimp pasta — Excellent shrimp pasta at Arturo’s

Eventually it was time to leave Sault Ste Marie and continue the last week of our summer voyaging. Our first stop was the very picturesque town of Bruce Mines. The mines here were known to the First Nations, and early explorers arrived in search of the copper. The first copper mine was opened in 1846, and was worked by miners who emigrated from Cornwall. The mine managers would not allow any stores to open in the town, instead settlers were forced to buy everything from the company store. The enterprising Marks brothers from Hilton Beach would load fresh produce and various goods onto a barge that they would anchor off the town because they were not allowed to dock. The townsfolk would row and paddle out to the barge to shop. The copper was worked for about 100 years before it played out. Today the mine is a quarry for an exceptionally hard rock that is used for road building. The town is a few miles west of the quarry, and I was surprised at how pretty it is. It is also right on the Trans Canada Highway, and boasts several restaurants of previously excellent reputation. Dick was particularly looking forward to the Bavarian Restaurant. Sadly, the restaurant has been sold. The current reviews of both that and the other local eatery were so bad that we decided to eat on board.

leaving Bruce Mines — Calm seas as we leave Bruce Mines

Our last night out was at an anchorage in Milford Haven, a long narrow inlet, still in Canadian waters. We anchored near a picturesque abandoned boathouse. We were surprised to be completely alone in such a pretty spot, usually we would have expected a few sailboats and possibly some Loopers to join us. It just shows how much the weather has changed since the middle of August. We are seeing far fewer days of fine weather, and the nights are now considerably colder. I imagine most boaters that are still out prefer to stop in marinas with power, rather than anchoring out.

Milford Haven anchorage — We anchored near a deserted boathouse in Milford Haven

We arrived in Drummond Island Yacht Haven just before noon, followed by several other Loopers. We were invited for docktails on board Vitamin Sea, together with the crew of Misty. It turns out that we had met both couples before, last year at Rendezvous in Norfolk and then Misty again on the Hudson. They are all great storytellers with an excellent sense of humour. Afterwards we went to a local Tex-Mex restaurant for an outstanding meal. It is fortunate we have our vehicle here, because the town is several miles from the marina.

Drummond Island sits between the Georgian Bay’s North Channel and the open waters of Lake Huron. It is the seventh largest lake island in the world. The Canada United States border runs north and east of the island, so it was our port of entry for our return to USA. It used to be necessary to meet in person with a US Customs and Immigration officer, but these days technology has improved things, at least for boaters. Dick has an app on his phone that he uses to notify Border Protection of our entry. An officer may ask to have a short video conversation, and will then approve our entry. A few minutes later a number is emailed, that we enter into our online profile details and that’s that! We did learn last year from other Loopers that answering all questions accurately is important. For instance, when asked if you have any fruit and vegetables on board, the correct answer is yes. If you lie and say no, they will know you are lying, because boaters of course have food on board! When asked, you simply tell them you have “ship’s stores”. As commented by a fellow boater the other day, Loopers, who tend to be retirement age, and travel at 7 knots on trawlers do not exactly fit the profile of drug dealers and smugglers.

Drummond Island stormy weather — Stormy weather approaches Drummond Island

Drummond Island is connected to the mainland by a ferry that runs all year round. There are around 1000 permanent residents. There is a small air strip, and a primary school, but most children are bused to school on the mainland via the ferry. The island is a year-round tourist destination for those who enjoy outdoor pursuits, boasting miles of trails for off-roading, more than 13 unique ecosystems, water trail systems for paddling, access to both Lake Huron and Lake Michigan for boaters, and excellent birdwatching. Dick and I caught sight of sand hill cranes as we drove to dinner one evening. The underlying rock is dolomite, used in several industries including glass, paper making, agriculture, and even medicine, but the main use is for steel manufacture. The Drummond Island Quarry, now owned by Carmeuse, ships out nearly a million and a half tons of dolomite each year. The quarry is located inland, and we could just see a road specifically created to support 75-ton capacity haul trucks that bring the quarried rock to the processing plant on the shore.

Drummond Island Potatoes — Crispy potatoes with bacon, cheddar, and green onions was a specialty at the Drummond Island restaurant

The Yacht Haven where Nine Lives will stay for the winter, has a number of huge buildings, one of which is heated. This means that we can leave much of the food (pantry items), clothing, bedding, etc on board. We also do not have to put chemicals into the fresh water and blackwater tanks as we would if we had to winterize the boat. There is quite a bit of work done even so. We take home flour, since it does not last well, also anything that needs refrigeration of course. I like to take large laundry items like bath mats and some of the bedding home, so it can be washed (and ironed) in my big machines at home. Dick took samples of the oil from the engines, which are sent away for analysis. The report will tell him whether there are any problems with the engines, and also whether he needs to change the oil when we return in June for next year’s voyaging. We like to take the carpets home for steam cleaning. A final cleaning of bathrooms, the salon, and galley gets the boat ready for a winter rest, although of course another cleaning will be needed when we return. Dick gets together the various spares and parts that he will ask the boatyard to install, and also spends a lot of time making lists of needed maintenance and replacements. Boating is not an inexpensive lifestyle! This winter we will need a new air conditioning unit to replace the useless forward unit, a replacement side by side fridge freezer, and a new water pump.

On Monday morning the head tech from the boatyard came on board to go over the to-do list with Dick and see where everything was located. At last Nine Lives was ready for haul out. We have not seen her hauled out since the survey when we bought her in 2016, so we made a point of staying to see it. The boat is driven into a narrow channel, and is positioned above two large slings under the travel lift. Slowly, the boat is lifted in the slings, and then the travel lift drives away from the slip and conveys the boat to its destination on land. The heated shed was not quite ready for Nine Lives, because boats are located in the shed in reverse order to when they are expected to leave. Instead she was positioned on blocks of wood so the travel lift could be unhooked and driven away.

haulout positioning — Positioning Nine Lives on the slings of the travel lift

haulout lifting — Nine Lives is lifted out of the water

haulout leaving the slip — The travel lift leaves the slip

haulout driving away — Nine Lives is taken down the road to the boat sheds

The first thing we wanted to check was the status of the sponsons, the extra flotation that is unique to Nine Lives, and that had the hole in it last year. To our surprise and dismay, we could see that in spite of having taken considerable extra care this year, the starboard side sponson was cracked, and so was the one on the port side. Dick had arranged for plugs to be installed last spring, and as soon as they were opened gallons of water gushed out from both sides! So not only was the extra flotation not doing its job, we were hauling around all that extra weight of water! This impairs fuel efficiency, and also creates an imbalance on the boat. Water puddles in the showers and the kitchen sink, and the ice maker gets iced up as the automatic refill spills out of the back of the tray and onto the bottom of the unit. Dick will be getting in touch with the boat builder to find out exactly where the extra flotation part begins and ends, and of course the Drummond Island boat yard will need to make repairs. We will have to look into some different fenders to try to protect this vulnerable part of the boat in future. Apart from that, Nine Lives is in good condition, props and rudders looking good.

Nine Lives tunnel — Placing blocks of wood for Nine Lives to rest on above the concrete.

Nine Lives oops — Oops! Water pours out of the sponsons once the plug is removed.

We were able to stay overnight in cabins associated with the Yacht Haven. They were rustic, but well equipped and absolutely spotless. There was a lovely view over the bay and beautiful sunsets. The only inconvenience was a dearth of power points, including in the bedrooms. In fact, one of the bedrooms had a very nice bedside lamp, but the cord was left lying on the bed because there was absolutely no place to plug it in!

Drummond Island meat pie dinner — A last dinner cooked on board, shepherd’s pie with vegetables and garlic cheese bread to accompany.

The next morning, we finished packing up the car and said goodbye to Drummond Island until next summer. It has been a wonderful voyage this year. The weather could not have been better, not too hot, and very little rain. The rain we did get was mostly at night. We seldom needed the air conditioning, and when we did, the aft unit was sufficient. This was fortunate, since the forward unit is not working and is scheduled for replacement this winter! We had few weather delays, only one major (more than a day), and there were also few days when the forecast for wind and waves was not as expected. We met many Loopers this year, because we were travelling at the same time as most of the “pack”. Lots of enjoyable docktails and dockside chats.

This will be the final blog update for 2019. Look for Nine Lives again some time in June, 2020.

August 1 to 15, 2019 – Henry’s Fish Camp to Gore Bay

Henry’s Fish Restaurant, on Frying Pan Island, is considered a must stop on the Great Loop. We knew it would get crowded, so we set off in good time and arrived around 11am. It was quite something watching all the arrivals, including seaplanes, a large charter group, and pleasure boats as large as 50 feet and as small as wave runners. Arrivals were wrangled by the new owner’s father acting as dockmaster, and wrangled is the right word. Only the larger pleasure boats call on the radio and ask for dock assignments, the smaller boats just zoom in and park wherever they please, regardless of whether they are blocking other boats. The docks are long fingers, designed to hold several boats one behind the other, so it matters who ties up where! Henry’s is on an island, and typically serves about 350 meals on a weekday, and over 700 every day on weekends. Lunch is busier than dinner.

Henrys 3 — The busy dock at Henry’s, before the lunch rush begins

We met a few Loopers who stopped for a meal and then anchored elsewhere. Carefully timing our dinner for a less busy period, we enjoyed our fish, although portions were huge and we certainly didn’t need the appetizers! Something strange is going on with the reviews. The owners took over the restaurant last year, and locals have been trashing the place on both Trip Advisor and Active Captain, and even spreading unfounded rumours at nearby marinas. We enjoyed our visit very much, and felt bad for the owners, who are certainly putting great efforts into making it a great experience.

Henrys fish chowder — Dick enjoyed fish chowder to start

Henrys smoked fish — A large portion of smoked salmon with cream cheese was too much with what was to come!

Henrys fish and chips — Fish and Chips at Henry’s, battered pickerel, chips, coleslaw, and baked beans!

Henrys dock — After dinner at Henry’s you can sit on the dock and watch the world go by

Leaving Henry’s, we had a pretty trip to Parry Sound. Georgian Bay was unusually calm, so we chose to avoid the white-knuckle channels and go around outside. In Parry Sound there were 8 Looper boats in the first evening, and a get-together for docktails on the shore. Among the stories exchanged was an experience with Canada Customs. The wife happened to have some CBD oil on board, which she declared when asked. They were immediately told to stay on the boat and wait for an inspection. Said CBD oil was confiscated. What made everyone laugh, was the helpful Customs inspector told the lady she could buy a replacement at a shop less than half a block from where they were tied up! The chuckles were not over, we next heard that upon arriving in the store, the husband noticed pre-rolled joints for sale. Suddenly feeling nostalgic for his student days, he decided to buy one. Returning to the boat, he smoked a little of it, concluded that the experience was not quite the same as his memories, and tried to put it out. He had us all laughing as he described trying to get this thing to go out, without success. A great storyteller! He concluded “they don’t make ‘em like they used to!”

Parry Sound marina — Stormy skies over Parry Sound Marina

Parry Sound sunset — The sun sets behind one of Georgian Bay’s distinctive tall pines on Parry Sound.

While in Parry Sound we booked a meal at Log Cabin Fine Dining. Dick discovered that Trip Advisor had the location wrong, instead of a .8-mile bike ride it was 4 miles away. For only the second time in our Looping travels we had to call a taxi. We were joined by our friends Brenda and Bruce from B-Side, and the meal was worth the taxi and then some. In fact, we are booked to stay there when we travel south later in the month to attend Mum’s birthday party. The next day was occupied with general maintenance, Dick changed the oil on the generator and replaced a burned-out fan, while I did the laundry.

Log Cabin elk carpaccio — Elk carpaccio at Log Cabin Inn

Parry Sound waterfront 2 — The trestle bridge that crosses the river in Parry Sound is the longest east of the Rockies. Built in 1907, it is 1695 feet long and 105 feet high. It is still in regular use. A tall ship can be seen leaving the docks.

Parry Sound tall ship — Another look at the tall ship leaving Parry Sound. It left the docks entirely under sail, no engine.

Monday was a holiday, so we continued our stay in Parry Sound. Boat cleaning day, inside and out, and then Dick did a provision run on his bike while I scrubbed the white ball fenders of all the grunge that had accumulated in the locks. The barrel fenders got their covers back on (we take them off for locks, because we find the knit fabric hangs up on the rough lock walls), and Nine Lives again looks shipshape! In the afternoon we took a seaplane tour of the 30,000 islands. It was an interesting experience seeing where we had been from the air, including flying over Henry’s, but we both agreed that the very limited sight lines of a Cessna compared to a helicopter make it not really worth the trip. I have never been in a seaplane before though, so it was a new experience.

Parry Sound refuelling seaplane — Refuelling our seaplane before we got on board.

Georgian Bay from the air 1 — Georgian Bay from the air. Note the boats rafted up in one of the many anchorages.

Georgian Bay from the air 2 — You can see all the small islands of Georgian Bay

Georgian Bay from the air 3 — Some of the protected bays and inlets of the 30,000 Islands

Georgian Bay from the air 4 — From the air you can see how clear the water is, and how many rocks lie just below to catch the unwary boater!

Georgian Bay from the air 5 — Many of the islands have large homes on them, often built and maintained at great cost and only visited for two or three weeks a year.

Georgian Bay from the air 6 — A last look at 30,000 Islands!

I have been musing over boat names lately. It is interesting to speculate on why someone names their boat as they do. Some are clever, such as our friends Brenda and Bruce on their catamaran B-Side (you gotta be old enough to remember 45rpm records). Last year we met Loopers whose boat was Fun. When calling marinas or bridges, they of course follow protocol, repeating the boat name 3 times. They told us half the people who hear something like “Lock 23, Lock 23, Lock 23, this is Fun Fun Fun” have trouble responding they are laughing so hard. (Not to mention hearing The Beach Boys in their heads for the rest of the day). Apres Sail ensures that everyone knows there are former sailors on board, and of course Nine Lives is named because she is a CATamaran. Red Boat is a beautifully kept sailboat with a bright red hull and matching dinghy. Some names clearly have meaning to their owners, but are not so obvious to the observer. A boat called French Toast? Sailboats are often evocative, North Star, Windrunner, Orion. But I could not believe the one I saw at Henry’s. This was a large, sleek, fast motor yacht, about 45 feet, (the kind that throws us around as they speed past us, throwing wakes that rock our boat madly from side to side), with a middle-aged couple on board. The name? Grand Wazoo. Now I realize there is a recording by Frank Zappa by that name (quite nasty lyrics), but I cannot imagine the owner has actually looked up the meaning of Wazoo. And what’s more, he is boasting that he is a really big one! (my gentle readers are going to have to look this up for themselves).

We ventured through the narrow channel known as Hole in the Wall as we left Parry Sound.

On August 6 we were again underway, this time hoping to tie up at what was called a “Government Dock” in Point au Baril Station. After traveling a long way up the channel, we arrived in what looked like an interesting village to find no evidence of the so-called government dock, and a clear sign on the public dock saying that boats longer than 30 feet are strictly forbidden from docking. Retracing our steps part way, we found a very pleasant anchorage in Kitsilano Bay for the night.

Kitsilano Bay anchorage — Our anchorage in pretty Kitsilano Bay in early morning.

Heading out the next morning we passed one of the iconic lighthouses of Georgian Bay. In fact, almost all of the Canadian lighthouses I have seen follow a similar design. Instead of the tall round tower that is more familiar in the USA or Britain, Canadian lighthouses are often a fairly short clapboard structure that tapers to the light. They are painted white, with distinctive red trim. Many are still in use, although most are unmanned.

Pointe au Baril Lighthouse 3 — Pointe au Baril Lighthouse

A closer look at Pointe au Baril Lighthouse

The next day our destination was Britt, up Byng Inlet. We planned to stay just one night, but high winds in the Bay kept us there for 5 nights. Not really complaining, it was only our second weather delay of this year’s voyage, compared to how much time we were stormbound in previous years. Unfortunately, there isn’t much to Britt. We rode our bikes into “town” to visit the post office, and ate a meal at the only restaurant on the way back. We got together with other Loopers the first evening for docktails. A few boats left the next morning, but we didn’t like the forecast. Instead we spent a most enjoyable afternoon playing bridge with Brenda and Bruce and listened to the wind howling around us. Saturday morning one of the remaining Loopers left at 7am, but were back an hour later reporting 4-foot waves (instead of the 1.5 foot that were predicted) and double-digit winds. We had been just about to start our engines, but we shut everything down and made another afternoon bridge date. Finally, Sunday with a 6:30am start we were able to say goodbye to Byng Inlet. We are too large for the so-called small craft channel, especially on windy days, so we ran outside at our top speed of 18 knots. It was unpleasant at first, but gradually the waves settled down. We were glad we had taken the picture off the salon wall and generally prepared for rough seas. We had forgotten that when it is very rough the water actually splashes up into the bathroom sinks. Dick thinks this is an excellent way of clearing the U-trap of any accumulated crud.

We turned off Georgian Bay into Beaverstone Inlet and then made our way along Collins Inlet. This was one of the most scenic routes we have seen. It was a geology lesson in miniature, more rugged than further south, but stunning.

Collins Inlet 2 — High water has killed many small trees at the water’s edge in Ontario this year

Collins Inlet 3 — Spectacular scenery of Collins Inlet

Collins Inlet 6 — A sailboat leaves the narrowest part of Collins Inlet.

Collins Inlet 8 — A geology lesson from the waters of Collins Inlet

Collins Inlet 9 — Approaching one of the narrow channels of Collins Inlet

Collins Inlet 10 — When the channel is this narrow, it is important to “colour between the lines!”

In Killarney we tied up at Killarney Mountain Lodge. The marina has good docks but inconvenient showers and unusable wi-fi. Nevertheless, it is an enjoyable stop and I always like watching the boat traffic. Docks there are long, requiring boats to be moored two-deep. We arrived and were trying to tie up behind another boat, with a very strong current pushing us off the dock and dockhands who were very young, confused, and incapable of taking instructions. The owner of the large boat in front of us was also trying to explain to us that he would be leaving in the morning and we should tie up elsewhere. Apparently the Dockmaster had left for the day, and the young lady in charge was clearly inexperienced. Announcing ourselves before arrival as a 44-foot catamaran with a 19-foot beam was apparently unclear to her. Eventually we were moved to a more suitable slip. Meanwhile, the other captain proved to be a very friendly and chatty individual. He entertained us with his story of the morning before. He had bought a muffin at the small kiosk on the shore, and was eating it when he noticed a small dinghy coming into the dock. Helpful chap that he is, he stepped up and took the line and was just starting to tie it up when the Labrador on board lunged forward, snatched the rest of the muffin out of his hand and wolfed it down! Apparently, the dog’s owner was desperately embarrassed and insisted on replacing the muffin.

Killarney Mountain Lodge 2 — Killarney Mountain Lodge

We ate at the nearby Sportsman Inn that evening. Nice aspect overlooking another marina in the channel, food very tasty but rather overcooked. The next morning Dick prepared one of his special breakfasts on board. Later, I began working on the blog and became aware that someone else obviously likes Scottish music. The music got louder, and I looked up to see the tall ship Madeline moving majestically down the channel with a piper on the foredeck!

Killarney Sportsman Inn 2 — Fish supper at Sportsman Inn, tasty, but sadly overcooked.

Killarney is a small village about 25 miles from the mining city of Sudbury. It relies mainly on tourism, including fishing camps, boating, and general wilderness pursuits. It was first settled in 1820 by a French Canadian fur trader and his Anishinaabe wife, who established a trading post. Road access to the small community did not arrive until 1962. The town population is less than 500, but between the 4 marinas and two large hotels, it is bustling in the short summer season.

Killarney breakfast 1 — Dick begins to prepare breakfast on board

Killarney breakfast 2 — It’s ready, dishing it out!

Killarney breakfast 3 — English bacon, two eggs (lots of pepper), mushrooms, hash browns and toast, yummy!

Killarney tall ship 2 — Tall ship Madeline cruising through Killarney Channel. A piper plays bagpipes on the foredeck.

Killarney tall ship — Another look at Madeline

Killarney channel tugboat — A beautifully restored tugboat passing through Killarney Channel.

Killarney workboat — One of the large fishing vessels we have been seeing on Georgian Bay

We were delighted to see Brenda and Bruce arrive on B-Side the next day. We keep saying goodbye and then find ourselves once again in the same place. One of the great joys of Looping! We relaxed in the shade on the very comfortable chairs and then repaired to Nine Lives foredeck for docktails.

Killarney Mountain Lodge docks — That’s B-Side on the left. Nine lives is behind on the right hand dock.

Dinner that evening at the Lodge was excellent, such a contrast to the experience at Sportsman Inn, even though they are under the same ownership. Afterwards we went to the lounge to listen to the live entertainment. This was a young man, who brought with him at least 10 instruments. His music was a mix of Celtic and Canadian folk, with a few light rock thrown in for variety. He was a very talented player. What made his performance absolutely fascinating was a machine he called a “looper”. He would begin playing an instrument, and the looper recorded it. He would then play back the recording and accompany/harmonize, laying a new recording over the first. It was quite an amazing presentation, especially when he would switch instruments to add to the mix. He sang one song a capella, using two mikes, and gradually building up the chorus while singing the verses with the single voice. A most enjoyable evening!

Killarney Lodge crab cakes — Crab Cakes at Killarney Mountain Lodge

Killarney Lodge venison — The special was venison en croute, Dick said it was delicious!

Killarney entertainment — Evening entertainment at Killarney Mountain Lodge

Killarney channel 2 — The well stocked general store in Killarney, you can drive up by car, or by boat!

Killarney channel — Passing the Sportsman Inn as we leave Killarney

The next morning, we set off for Little Current on Manitoulin Island. One must pass under a bridge, formerly a railroad bridge, now converted to a single lane highway bridge. It opens only on the hour, but normally we would easily pass under its 20-foot height when closed. We still approached very carefully, knowing that this year’s high water is at least 5 feet above chart datum, and were preparing to ease under when the bridge tender kindly stepped out of his hut and called down that the bridge height is 13 feet. That would be 1.5 feet lower than we can duck under, so Dick had to reverse and wait for the opening, fortunately only 10 minutes later. Not an easy job, the current under the bridge in Little Current is not so little!

lighthouse near Little Current — Lighthouse on the point as we approach Little Current

Little Current bridge — Once a railway bridge, now a single lane highway bridge at Little Current. It opens only on the hour to allow boaters to pass.

Little Current was first settled in the late 1860’s, and is the main town on Manitoulin Island. An important port for Great Lakes shipping taking on wood for fuel in the 19^th century, today lumber is still an important part of the economy, along with agriculture and tourism. It is a well-kept village, with an outstanding municipal waterfront facility. The town wall is available for short term docking, and several floating docks make up the marina. Dick reports that the washroom/shower facilities are excellent, and well-spaced for access from all part of the marina. This should be obvious, but believe me, in so many places it isn’t. We were docked right beside the boardwalk. It is always enjoyable to watch people and boats coming and going and chat with passers-by.

Our next stop was Gore Bay, a deep V-shaped bay on the north side of Manitoulin. Docks at the marina are so long that the dockhands ride bicycles to get to the slip and help tie up. It is interesting how different people have different perspectives and reactions to the places we visit on the Loop. One Gold Looper we met waxed lyrical about Georgian Bay’s North Channel, telling us it is the most beautiful place he has ever cruised. In addition to completing the Great Loop, his usual cruising ground is the San Juan Islands off the west coast, and he spent last summer in Alaskan waters. To be honest, once we left Killarney and entered the North Channel, Dick and I are still waiting to see this amazing scenery he was talking about! So far it is attractive, but by no means the most beautiful we have seen since beginning the Great Loop! Another couple who cruise these waters most summers, when asked for recommendations by Dick, suggested spending two nights in Gore Bay. Once again, we are wondering why!

The next afternoon we rode our bikes the 3 kilometers to Janet Head Lighthouse, at the top of Gore Bay. The lighthouse is in private ownership, but it is open to visitors during summer months. Janet Head Lighthouse was built in 1879. The light, still operational, although now unmanned, can be seen for 11 miles into the North Channel. The building was built as a combination light station and home for the keeper and his family. The first keeper had 11 children. We wandered around inside, and found it surprisingly spacious, with 4 reasonable bedrooms, parlour, kitchen, and another front room. We could see that there is also a cellar, which would have been used as a cool room. During summer months the lighthouse was a warning beacon for Great Lakes shipping. In winter months it also directed sleighs carrying the mail along an ice highway from Gore Bay to Spanish between 1910 and 1924. This 35 kilometer route is still followed by snowmobiles in winter.

Janet Head Lighthouse 1 — Afternoon bike ride to Janet Head Lighthouse on Gore Bay

After visiting the lighthouse, we retraced our route and followed the bay around to its southern end. There is an important wetland and salmon run, and a boardwalk with interpretive signs offers visitors a chance to enjoy nature. We finished the day with excellent pizza at the restaurant near the marina.

Gore Bay wetlands — Wetlands at the southern end of Gore Bay

This update will likely be the last for a few weeks. Upon arrival next week in Sault Ste Marie, we will be taking 10 days to return to Brighton for Dick’s mother’s 90th birthday party. Returning to the boat, we will visit Sault Ste Marie and then make our way to Drummond Island, where Nine Lives will enjoy a well-earned rest for the winter.