Nine Lives Summer Voyage 2021 – The Voyages of Nine Lives

2022

June 20 to July 9 Pickwick Lake to St. Charles

At last Nine Lives is underway again. Not our most auspicious start, on several levels.

In October last year, we left Nine Lives at a marina on Pickwick Lake, in a covered, in-water slip, where she will spend the next two winters as well. As usual, there was a list of work to be done (this is boat ownership), and 8 months in which to do it. Dick also arranged for monthly cleaning, and a major refurbishment of the gelcoat. In November, Dick returned to the marina to check on things, and finalize all the arrangements. Through the winter, he sent emails and made phone calls, to no response. The local harbor host even visited on our behalf. Eventually, Dick visited in person again in April, discovering, and he was not particularly surprised, that nothing had been done. The boat was filthy, and none of the mechanical work had been started. He managed to get the most important item on the list, the check of the house batteries, done while he was there, and the required replacement batteries were ordered. Assurances were made that the installation of the new batteries, the 2000-hour engine service, the bottom paint, and a thorough cleaning and waxing, plus other minor items, would be completed before our arrival in late June. Follow-up phone calls were made, and further assurances given.

We set off from Hilton Head on Monday, June 20, with the vehicle loaded with all the pantry items that we had removed in the autumn, plus fresh and frozen provisions for the first few weeks. As we drove off, Dick commented, “Wouldn’t it be funny if we got there and found Nine Lives out of the water!” Nine hours driving later, we arrived at the marina, and as we drove toward the parking lot, there she was, up on blocks, out of the water. We later learned that she had been taken out just two hours before our arrival. It wasn’t funny at all, deeply annoying would be a better description!

There was a bit of a scramble to find local accommodation for a few days, with a full-size fridge-freezer to ensure that all the food did not spoil. For all that Pickwick Lake is a vacation destination, and with many very expensive homes along the cliffs, the area has little in the way of accommodation or restaurants. We stayed at a hotel and conference center in the State Park at the top of the lake, and Dick checked on the progress of the bottom paint and other work twice a day.

Nine Lives was finally splashed on Thursday, and on Friday morning we were able to move aboard. Even then, there was work still being done. Some things did not happen, including the 2000-hour service, but Dick felt confident that it could wait until we return in the autumn. The promised waxing did not get done either, just a cursory wash-down, and inside cleaning was impossible to arrange at short notice. So, Nine Lives is not looking as beautiful as she should.

One thing I can tell you, appalling as this seems, not getting the work done in a timely manner is absolutely normal at all the boatyards we have dealt with (so far, we are 4 for 4). There is huge demand for skilled work, and constant boating emergencies, so regular maintenance work and non-essential repairs are given low priority everywhere. Friends ask, can we go somewhere else? The short answer is no. All of the reputable boatyards are the same anyway, and this is an ideal location for our next 3 year’s plans. We have a covered slip at a good rate for the time we need it, not easy to find. That said, the yard manager assured Dick that this will not happen next winter. We will keep fingers crossed, and Dick will have to attend in person more often.

We spent Friday and Saturday on various start-up tasks, including sanitizing the freshwater tanks, launching the dinghy and testing the motor, adding new cords to lessen the sway of the dinghy while we are underway, fuel, pump out, and fresh water fill. I occupied myself with various jobs, including of course bed making, putting away all the provisions and pantry items, and preparing fresh bags of cloves. A number of other inside jobs were completed, and some were postponed until later.

Fuel fill, pity we didn’t do this last autumn.

I was surprised and pleased to find no evidence of unwanted critters inside the boat, and almost none in the cockpit. This, in spite of the condition of the outside, and the lines, fenders, dinghy, and power cords being festooned with spider webs. I put this down to multiple precautions. All food that is left on board is kept in plastic storage bins. Bounce sheets are placed in all drawers and closets, bags of cloves are distributed generously in the pantry cupboards, and I did a careful and complete spray inside and out with spider control as we left. No way to know which of these precautions is working and which are boating myths, and I have no plans to “test” by leaving any of them out!

We tried several local restaurants during our enforced stay in the area. The only upscale eatery was in Corinth, a 30-minute drive away. The town is an interesting mix of new and old, and everything is well cared for and clean. The meal in the restaurant was good, and we will certainly return. As we drove out, we saw three middle-aged men, sitting on chairs on the sidewalk, with guitars, jamming with no audience but having a wonderful time. Nice town.

We were finally able to get underway on June 26^th at 8am. Unfortunately, there was already an up-bound tow at the Pickwick Lock, and we had a 3-hour wait until it was our turn to go through. Later in the afternoon we were caught by thunderstorms. The winds were so strong they lifted up the fold-down seats on the bow, then the rain came down in sheets. This helpfully dropped the temperature from 95F to 71F, at least temporarily. We anchored behind Swallow Bluff Island, first time for our new anchor rode (chain) and markers. Dick had to wear his bathing suit in the rain for the anchoring exercise (fortunately for me, my role in the anchoring process is inside at the helm!) I posted on facebook to complete our first day, and Dick wondered why nobody asked for a picture of him out there in his swimming trunks!

With the sun shining, and our first day successfully complete, we enjoyed our traditional toast to the season’s boating of bubbly, accompanied by cheese and crackers. Dick fired up the grill for an excellent meal of steak, baked potatoes and mushrooms.

Before dinner, Dick took time to fix the new boarding ladder. He used his purpose-bought pipe cutter to trim the supports. When that broke (mutters about cheap piece of junk), he made a second attempt using the vastly more time-consuming hacksaw. Sadly, the supports were still far too long and the boarding ladder was still unusable.

When we anchor, I set alarms on two devices, to ensure that we are alerted if we move more than an acceptable amount during the night. Of course, deciding how much is too much, is somewhat of an art. One has to take into account currents, distance from shore, amount of chain we have out, and whether or not there are tides. On this occasion the research said that the current would keep us in line in the channel, so I set a fairly small radius on the alarms. At 4:38am I was rudely awakened by a loud Whoop Whoop Whoop a few inches from my ear. I leapt out of bed, calling for Dick to wake up, and rushed up to the cockpit. Instant relief to see that we were nowhere near either shore, followed by absolute puzzlement when I could see from the anchor light on the other boat in the anchorage that we had turned completely around and were facing the opposite direction. This would be expected in an area with tides, but on an inland river it was mystifying. We could only conclude that the upstream and/or downstream dams had stopped moving the water, thus minimizing the current. Later that morning the other boater came by and told us that a huge wave had come through during the night and completely repositioned his boat. Since we were already wide awake after the excitement, coffee was made, and we watched the sunrise and got an early start.

This first part of our summer voyage required retracing our route from last autumn for nearly two weeks. In order to catch up with the plan, we ran for two long days and missed a couple of anchorages. Our second night was at Pebble Isle Marina, an okay spot, but it will be too shallow when we return in autumn, and it has little to recommend it. This area is all part of Kentucky Lake, a long ribbon of artificial lake created by the Tennessee Valley Authority through the beds of several rivers, including the Tennessee River.

We passed the Tennessee River Lighthouse, a 70-foot structure, high on the bluff, that used to show a continuous white light. Anecdotally, it was used as a navigation aid for some years, but it is now sadly derelict and falling further into disrepair each year.

Ospreys nest on the taller daymarks, and some had nearly grown chicks still being looked after by their parents.

We arrived as planned at Kentucky Dam Marina. As is not uncommon in this part of the world, there was no response to the radio, and our phones did not have enough signal to call. We had to go to the fuel dock, and ask for docking instructions by calling out to the attendant. The first suggestion was to “take any of those slips”. I pointed out that they appear to be 14-foot-wide slips, and Nine Lives is 19 feet. Oh. The uncovered slips in the marina were mostly empty, but we elected to go all the way to the end and take the t-head.

The nearby restaurant was closed except for weekends, so I made jambalaya on board. It was the first time for that recipe, won’t be the last!

Dick took the time for one of the undone chores, installing the new TV. The previous one, although working fine, was not a smart TV, so Dick decided to replace it. This will allow us to stream regular programs (acceptable wi-fi permitting). We also installed a new DVD player, and are continuing with our usual evening tradition of watching murder mysteries and other box set programs.

Kentucky Dam Lock was very backed up, and the lock keeper advised Dick that pleasure craft have a difficult time using that lock, plus the river above has heavy barge traffic. We decided to take the longer route through Barclay Lock and up the Cumberland River, expected to be faster even though it is considerably longer. We had an hour wait for the lock, and met several tows on the river in both directions, but it was an easy day to Paducah.

An attractive waterfront property at Green Turtle Bay

A tow enters Barclay Lock, only a few feet of clearance, skilled driving required!

There were a lot of dead Asian Carp, and Barclay Lock smelled like a bad fish fry. Not sure which is more unpleasant, dead ones, or the live ones leaping out of the water, hitting under the boat, and potentially jumping into the dinghy. A tree in the river even had dead fish festooned in its branches, which also speaks to how high the river gets during spring flood stage. We saw lots of turkey vultures, ospreys, and a bald eagle on the shore was deciding whether a dead carp that had washed up looked tasty. It was clear from how undercut the banks were that the river has been particularly high this spring. Tree roots were exposed, but the trees themselves still had leafed out.

Exposed tree roots show how high the water was this spring

At the turn into the Ohio River, there are two Federal Mooring Cells. These are huge steel structures that are set up for barges to moor to while waiting for locks. One of the two at this inlet had collapsed. You can see in the picture the sheer size of the structures, and imagine the power of the water that caused the collapse.

We liked Paducah last fall, and were not disappointed on this visit. We stayed two nights. I had time to do a quick load of laundry, and Dick spent the day running errands on his bike in 100-degree heat. He found some great bread from the bakery, beautiful fresh strawberries and other fruit from the market, and he made a run to both the grocery store and the hardware. There were so many items, he sadly forgot the main reason for the hardware store, which was a replacement pipe cutter. As mentioned earlier, the boarding ladder that replaced the one that we lost last fall (oddly enough at Paducah), needed the ladder supports to be trimmed to fit the boat and make it useable for me. Getting on and off has been quite a challenge, the step from the back is usually too long for me, so without a ladder I can be stuck on board.

On our first evening we tried a highly rated and trendy new restaurant. It was in a re-purposed freight warehouse, but unfortunately it was rather too trendy for us. Leaving aside décor that consisted of a basic coat of paint and hard metal chairs, we were told to scan a QR code to see the menu, which we refused, so paper menus were reluctantly provided. The only option for the wine list was the QR code, go to the website, or order completely blind from the choices rattled off by the waitress that gave only varietal, not origin, winery, or price. We did choose from the website, but requiring patrons to bring and use a smart phone does not endear us to any restaurant. Dick’s food was quite good, mine was not.

The next evening, we returned to Cynthia’s, a restaurant we enjoyed last fall, and it was a much nicer experience. The setting was another historic warehouse, but sympathetically renovated, and there were tablecloths, wine glasses, and menus! The crepes Dick had for dessert rank as one of his top ten restaurant desserts ever. Given the number of business and personal restaurant meals he has had all over the world, this is saying something.

Crepes, one of the best desserts Dick has ever tasted

After filling up with water, we set off by 9am, but we anticipated a 3 to 4 hour wait at Olmsted Lock. We arrived at the lock at 11:30 and went straight in. Last fall when we came through the water was high enough that we didn’t even go through the lock itself, instead we were directed to pass right over the wickets (dam). Olmsted replaced two other locks on the Ohio River, and yet it can still be under water when the river is running high. The 30-year lock building project was both the largest and the most expensive inland waterway project ever undertaken in the United States. Olmsted carries the most tonnage of any lock in the entire Army Corps of Engineers system.

As we made our way down the Ohio River to the Mississippi, we passed many barges at anchor, and being gathered together for transit of the river system. Barges are the containers, huge floating steel tubs usually 195 feet long by 35 feet wide. They get lashed together and are pushed by a tugboat, called a towboat, more often shortened to tow. Boaters learn very early to call the tow, if you try calling the oncoming vessel a barge they may not answer, as that would be a bit like trying to speak to a railway car instead of the driver. There are essentially two types of tow. Smaller tugs, amusingly referred to as lunch bucket boats, push and pull the barges into place for loading and for lashing together. The reason for the name is that the 3-man crews work the same tug in the same part of the river, bringing their lunch aboard and going home after their shift. Larger tugs handle the transport up and down the rivers, and may have more crew, who of course sleep on board. Last autumn on the Illinois River, we saw barge trains of up to 3 wide and 4 long. This spring we have seen several that are 5 wide and 6 long, for a total of 30 barges. These exceptionally large barge trains are only possible south of St Louis, because of the limitations in the size of the locks further north. The tonnage of the materials carried is staggering, and these run 24 hours a day and 7 days a week. We will easily meet or pass 10 that are underway each day as we travel. Mostly the barges are filled with sand or different types of stone. Some carry chemicals, and some are carrying scrap metal. Many are covered, so we don’t know what is inside. Later in the year there will be many carrying grain and flour.

At Cairo (pronounced Kay Row to our private amusement), we turned the corner, and were at last in the Mississippi River, a week after leaving Pickwick Lake. We stopped for the night at Boston Bar, an anchorage we visited last fall. Naturally, just as we got into position to set the anchor, the heavens opened, and there was no time for bathing suits, so Dick just had to get outside and get soaked. The rain stopped as soon as the anchor was set.

Boston Bar is not our favourite anchorage. There is a strong current, and it was particularly strong that night. Our anchor held, but there is a large bridge abutment and a wing dam of riprap directly behind. It would have been very close getting the engines started in time to prevent disaster if the anchor had come loose. We are planning a different stop on our return in the fall. To add another reason, as if one was needed, Dick thinks that the combination of the strong current slightly starving the intake of water to the raw water pump, and sand in the river getting into the impeller, contributed, if not fully caused the generator to break down. In the morning, when I came up to the cockpit with my coffee, there was a strong smell. I mistakenly identified it as diesel, and Dick duly sniffed and said, no, he could not smell any diesel. In fact, it was burning rubber. Next time I smell something strange I will not try to be specific.

The next evening, we anchored in Little Diversion Channel, just south of Cape Girardeau, Missouri. This is a pretty, but narrow channel, and one of the few safe anchorages between St Louis and Cairo. It took several tries before the anchor set, most unusual for our trusty rocna. There didn’t seem to be a lot of current to hold us in place, but as Dick discovered when he jumped into the water, there was plenty! He immediately found himself 10 feet behind the boat, and had to swim very hard to get back.

Dick started up the generator, and was just getting ready for our traditional beer after stopping for the day, when the generator stopped. Several tries more and it was clear there was a problem. It was humid, 90 degrees, and we really, really wanted the air conditioner! The air conditioners cannot be run without either shore power or the generator. Dick began his investigations and found that the impeller for the raw water pump was completely worn out. We carry replacements, so he installed that, and then cleaned the strainer. Still the generator overheated, and it became clear that the pump was not moving the water. The only conclusion (after Dick jumped into the water to examine the outlet, just in case a piece of dead fish had been caught there) was that somehow there was a problem with the pipe. (Ultimately, we learned that the problem was the bits of the worn impeller blocking the pipe, something Dick could have fixed if he had realized the issue.)

Little Diversion Channel was quite a pleasant stop, well off the busy river. There were butterflies flitting around the boat, and a hummingbird circled us a couple of times, but I had nothing to offer them. A couple of fishermen went by, and some pontoon boats. Local law enforcement passed several times, carefully slowing right down to pass us without a wake, most considerate! We enjoyed a very nice dinner, another new recipe, but it was awful cooking in the heat.

Although it was really hot, we made the decision not to stress the engines by running hard for the 8 hours it would have taken to get to Hoppies, and we proceeded as planned to Kaskaskia Lock. Running that far against the current at high speed would have cost an extra $250 in fuel, plus it would be quite hard on the engines. At Kaskaskia we tied to the lock wall, and spent a quiet night (sadly no fireworks visible, although it was July 4^th). We did skip the planned exploration up the Kaskaskia River to Evansville, and proceeded the next morning to Hoppies.

As we travelled up the Mississippi River, we were struck by the amount of coal being carried on the many barges. It had been my impression, from reading news reports and articles concerned with climate change, that coal is on the way out, having been replaced by other fossil fuels (and of course other forms of energy such as solar, hydro, and wind power). We have passed generating stations that are clearly coal-fired, many with piles of coal waiting, but they have all been shut down, or are on standby. There are two other critical uses for coal, steel making, and cement production. Electricity does not get hot enough for these processes, so coal is still being used. Also, coal is now being shipped to China, Japan, and other Asian countries. Coal production declined after 2013, but it had increased steadily between 1950 and 2013, and in 2020 it was still higher than it was in 1980. In fact, this year, 2022, coal production is up, predicted to be 22% higher than last year.

Loading coal at Knight Hawk Lone Eagle Dock

coal barges waiting to offload at a cement plant

We passed the interesting Tower Rock, a huge rock formation in the river. First mention of this rock was in 1673, when missionary Jacques Marquette wrote that this was a place dreaded by the savages because a manitou, or demon lives there. Later a band of river pirates occupied the rock, and preyed on Mississippi shipping. The outlaw base was destroyed in 1803 by US Army dragoons. Sailors passing the rock would celebrate with a drink of spirits. We did not follow that particular tradition, we are strict about saving all alcoholic beverages until we are docked or anchored for the night.

Hoppies is a Looper legend. It is called a marina, but a better description would be to say it is a fuel dock that has extra space to tie up overnight. They are the only fuel stop between St Louis and Paducah, and many Loop boats may not have a 225-mile range. Nine Lives can make that trip southbound in 3 days, but coming up-river against the current it took 5. We are fortunate to have a 1000-mile range, so seldom have to be concerned that we may run out of fuel. Hoppies is 3 somewhat rusty steel barges lashed together beside the shore. They had docks, but they were destroyed in flooding in 2019. I had thought they had no power, but I was delightfully wrong, and we were so glad to be able to plug in and use the air conditioners again. The temperature was 99F, and the weather channel reported that with the humidity it “feels like 112”. Even the fuel was worth stopping for, as it was $.70 a gallon less than the other marinas we would be stopping at over the next few days, so we filled up.

We had understood that the only nice restaurant was a 2.5-mile bike ride away, but an alternative in town was suggested. LaChance, a local winery, has opened a restaurant in a historic tavern building, so we decided to brave the heat and try it. Although supposedly a 15-minute walk, I was immediately regretting the decision, as the sun beat down, and the road was slightly uphill, but to our surprise, the owner of Hoppies drove up in his car and offered a ride into town. It was a very kind gesture. Tuesday is a limited menu, but Dick enjoyed his enormous catfish po-boy sandwich, and I had outstanding chicken quesadillas. We each tried a flight of wine tastings (Dick red, me white), and Dick came home with a bottle of one of their red blends. Kimmswick is a pretty and historic town, founded in 1859. The log tavern, built in 1770, that LaChance has taken over was once a favourite haunt of Ulysses S. Grant. There are a number of attractive old houses in the village, as well as the Anheuser Estate and Museum on the riverfront. The town is a regular stop for river cruise boats.

After an excellent night’s sleep in air-conditioned comfort, we left early to allow for delays at the two locks we would pass through on our way to our next stop at Alton. As we approached the outskirts of St Louis we could see beautiful homes on top of the bluffs. One has a huge sculpture in the garden overlooking the water, depicting a pair of legs diving into a pool. I can’t imagine the cost of building this enormous structure, and what could possibly be the point. We passed the Gateway Arch in St Louis in mid-morning, and were very pleased to be directed straight in at Chain of Rocks Lock. A couple of hours later, there was again no wait at Mel Price Lock, so we arrived at the marina in Alton and were tied up by 2:15.

We had booked a meal at Gentelin’s on Broadway, a fine dining restaurant we enjoyed last fall. Alton, although historic, is not an attractive town. Some efforts are being made at gentrification, and there is a pleasant waterfront park, but they have a long way to go. I was glad we were walking both ways in daylight. We enjoyed the meal, although the restaurant was surprisingly noisy. There was a man singing and playing a keyboard, and unfortunately between the amplification and acoustics in the restaurant, diners had to raise their voices to chat, and the result was an incredible din that did not add to the experience. We expect to return anyway, as the food is excellent. My lobster tail cooked in tempura batter was delicious, and Dick enjoyed his crispy roast duck.

House salad at Gentelin’s. A salad is always included with your meal in the midwest.

We had only a short run to Port Charles Harbor in St Charles, just past the confluence of the Mississippi and the Illinois Rivers. North of Alton we passed our first Mississippi cruise ship. While very large, it was still dwarfed by the barge that we passed at the same time.

In Port Charles, we are tied up for several days. The generator repairs were completed almost immediately. In some ways it is fortunate that the problem happened, because while investigating the generator problem, Dick became aware of water in the port-side bilge. He knew from our experience with the starboard engine last summer that this could be the beginning of a problem with the raw water pump on the port engine. Further examination determined that the pump is definitely failing, and a replacement has been ordered and will arrive Monday. Of course, if the 2000-hours service had been done, this problem would have been identified at that time.

Dick borrowed a pipe cutter and fixed the boarding ladder at last.

We walked next door to the interestingly named Duck Club Yacht Club. A very nice club, with a lively bar and a nice restaurant that is open to transients staying at the Port Charles Marina. Dick had pizza, followed by cherry pie, while I liked my shrimp wrap.

Pretzels and beer cheese at Duck Club Yacht Club

Saturday we took the courtesy car into St Charles. As the only transients currently in the marina we have exclusive use of their somewhat beaten up Dodge Caravan. We made a grocery and liquor run, and scouted the downtown in advance of tonight’s meal in a highly rated Italian restaurant. Tomorrow we plan to spend some time wandering through the historic Main Street with its many boutiques and cafes.

September 15 to October 3, Peoria to Iuka

We and other Loopers were made wonderfully welcome at the bar and in the restaurant of IVY Club in Peoria. This is just the way the yacht club reciprocal arrangement is supposed to work. Members stopped by and asked about our travels, and shared some of their own boating experiences. In the past we have found that this level of friendliness and welcome is sadly lacking at most other yacht clubs we have visited, so it was a nice change.

The next morning, we were up early and moved to the fuel dock to be ready at opening for a pump out. It was an easy run to the only lock of the day. The lock was ready for us, but we were happy to wait for two other Loopers who we knew were a little behind us. The rest of the day was surprisingly boring. After all the interesting sights and wildlife further north, there was little to see.

We anchored behind Quiver Island, along with 6 other Looper boats. It’s an obvious stopping place, especially as the water is very low this year, and many docks at marinas are inaccessible. For dinner I tried a modified recipe for pizza dough, that was much more successful than the previous effort. It also was helpful that I found the proper pizza pans!

Early morning at the anchorage behind Quiver Island

On Friday morning we left the anchorage a little later than we had planned, especially with a long 60-mile passage ahead. Again, it was mostly uninteresting scenery, with a few highlights to relieve the tedium. We met a 15-barge string on a bend. The big tows like this take up the whole river when they negotiate a corner, so we were glad to be able to talk to the tow and arrange safe passing. A little later, from around another bend and only a few feet above the water came a bright yellow airplane. It rose a little to pass over us, and then dipped again and continued to follow the river northward.

Passing an abandoned tower on the Illinois River

Eventually we arrived at LaGrange lock, shortly after noon. We were advised by the lockmaster that as soon as the tow ahead of us was finished he would refill the lock and put us through. We floated quietly in the channel, as we had done at every other lock, nudging with the engines to keep position. There was no other boat traffic above or below the lock. Unexpectedly, the lockmaster came on the radio and told us we could not wait in the channel, and we should move over to near the bank and anchor. The reviews on Active Captain and Waterway Guide indicated that this was a bad place to anchor, with poor holding, but we did as we were told. It took a couple of tries before the anchor held. Just 15 minutes later, we could see that the tow had cleared the lock, so we called and asked if it would be our turn. The lockmaster told us to pull our anchor “now”. Well, we tried. It absolutely would not come up. Dick made many attempts, and the bow of the boat dipped alarmingly as the chain tightened. The Illinois River has a strong current, and due to our width, and proximity to the bank, as well as the current, we were unable to bring Nine Lives around to be above the anchor and try to pull it out that way. We called for help from TowBoatUS. They had to come more than 60 miles, and could not get to us in daylight, so we stayed where we were overnight. No worries about the anchor dragging anyway!

I made a new recipe for chili for our dinner, very tasty, definitely a keeper, although Dick commented that he might prefer it on a cold winter evening instead of in 80-degree heat! The next morning there was plenty of time for one of Dick’s famous bacon and egg breakfasts. TowBoatUS arrived shortly after 10am. The first attempt to free us appeared successful, until we tried again to raise the anchor and it was clear that all that had happened was the rescue boat had dragged us and the tree along the bottom! (We are presuming it was a really large sunken log that we were caught on). The rescue boat then took all of our anchor chain onto their boat. This involved cutting what is known as the bitter end, the line that connects the very end of the chain to the boat. Nine Lives then moved out of the way, and the rescue boat was able to maneuver with their powerful engines and work the anchor free of whatever it was that had caught it. We were very glad that the last option, cutting the chain and abandoning the anchor on the bottom of the river, was not required. To remind us just how lucky we were, on the day I am writing this, there is a posting from another AGLCA member who had a similar experience, catching a large submerged log at an anchorage. TowBoatUS was too far away to travel to help them, and they were forced to cut their anchor chain and leave a very good, expensive anchor on the bottom.

Dick cuts the bitter end to release the anchor chain

The anchor is freed by the towing service

Next, we had to wait for the lock. Although TowBoatUS has priority as a commercial vessel, there was a split tow already negotiating the lock. When a string of barges is too large to fit into the lock all at once, the string has to be split, and locked through in parts. This takes a very long time, as the tow has to maneuver to and fro, the barges have to be uncoupled and recoupled, and the lock has to be emptied and filled several times. After about a 2 hour wait, we could see that the tow was finished. Dick overheard a conversation between the lockmaster and the tow operator, that suggested that there were no tows waiting for locking, “just a pleasure boat”. That would be us. We watched for another hour while nothing happened. We are quite sure that the lockmaster and the tow were enjoying a leisurely lunch together while we waited.

Finally through the lock, after more than 24 hours, we ran fast to try to catch up some of the lost time, slowing occasionally to pass villages, and tows with their barges. We were undaunted, and got right back on the horse and anchored behind an island off the river that night. Is that the right metaphor? Back on the horse? Hmmm. Anyway, we were fine, very tired after a stressful day, and we slept well. In the morning the anchor came up without problems, although we noticed a certain amount of strain on the electric winch. We decided that the lesson to be learned from our experience is to anchor well away from shore when in a river, as the debris on the bottom gets washed to the sides of the channel.

So how do we anchor? Once we are roughly in position, I take over from Dick at the helm, and after donning life vest, gloves, and headset, Dick goes up to the bow and lowers the anchor using the electric winch. We have marked the chain at 20-foot intervals, so he knows just how much rode (chain) goes out. Once the anchor is on the bottom, we allow the wind and current, with a little help on my part from the engines, to gently move us back, first until we feel the anchor take hold, and then further as more rode is paid out. After a ratio of 7 to 1 is achieved (that is, if the bottom is 10 feet down from the bow, there must be 70 feet of chain), the bridle is attached. This is two lines, one from each pontoon bow, clipped to the anchor chain. More rode is then paid out. This means that any strain caused by wind or wakes is taken by the bridle lines rather than the winch. In the morning, the whole process is reversed, and I am always glad to hear Dick tell me, “the anchor is up” as it comes off the bottom!

Dick attaches the bridle while anchoring

A few low hills varied the scenery the next day. We saw lots of bald eagles, showing that the river is a clean environment in spite of the amount of industry and commercial traffic. We also started to see kudzu.

Kudzu is a highly invasive plant that has been dubbed “the vine that ate the South.” It was imported to the USA in 1876 as an ornamental garden plant, and was used for erosion control in the 1930’s to 1950’s. The vine grows up to a foot a day. It is gradually spreading northwards, and has been found in Oregon, and in Southern Ontario. Kudzu smothers everything in its path. It spreads by runners that root where they touch the soil, by rhizomes underground, and by new vines that root at the nodes and form new plants. It destroys native grasses and plants, and even mature trees, as it covers them and prevents the leaves from photosynthesis. Despite its negative environmental impact, kudzu does have some uses. It is used as animal feed, the fibres are used in basketry, it can be used to make clothing and paper, and it is an ingredient in food and folk medicine in Asia.

We found the tows we met were universally helpful. The procedure when one meets a tow is to call, and depending on whether you are meeting to pass, or wish to overtake, you explain your intentions and ask where they want you. They will tell you, “on the one” or “on the two”. This is quite confusing at first! “On the one” means that you will meet or pass with the tow on your port side. “On the two”, is starboard. You need to remember that it is your port or starboard, not that of the tow!

We arrived in Grafton shortly after noon. Note to selves, not a good stopping place on the weekend! The marina was chaotic, reminding us of Henry’s Fish Camp in Georgian Bay. Mostly little boats arrive and depart, and a lot of smaller slips are kept available for them. The very popular Grafton Oyster Bar is located in the marina, and many boaters arrive for lunch and dinner. At one point I overheard the dockhand telling another to “help this pontoon boat, he says it is the first time he has ever driven a boat!” Well, conditions were not good for a complete beginner, it was windy and choppy, and the space in the marina is tight. In spite of my warning to Dick to see if he could fend them off, the neophyte boater managed to add another scrape to Nine Lives hull.

Grafton Marina. The empty slips are for day boats visiting the restaurant

Another interesting few moments occurred when a very large houseboat arrived in the marina. They did not use their radio. The dockhand called out to them that there wasn’t room for them, and I could clearly hear a man on the boat call out to the driver, “just keep going!” They swung into the open space at the end of the dock we were on, a space that was clearly reserved for another boat. There were at least 15 people on board, and the men were aggressive and (I later learned) quite drunk. One can hardly blame the teenage dockhands for not wishing to challenge them. Unfortunately, the Loopers whose spot they had taken arrived long before the entitled idiots departed, and had to spend the night on the fuel dock. We were not surprised when they chose to leave the next day rather than taking up their second night’s reservation.

We will return to Grafton Marina I am sure, but not on a weekend! The food at the Oyster Bar was excellent.

Crawfish enchiladas at Grafton Oyster Bar

We had a very short run to Alton, a suburb of St Louis on the Mississippi River. No restaurants nearby were open that night so we ate on board. We were now in delivery mode, travelling as quickly as possible to our final destination this summer. We expect to travel these rivers several times in the next few years as we complete our various summer voyages, so there is less incentive to stop at this time. Unfortunately, the weather was filthy, with rain and fog all day, so we stayed an extra day at Alton. Docktails was arranged for Loopers in the evening. It was the largest group we have participated in for some years! We agreed on a spokesman for the boats leaving the next day who would negotiate with the lock for all of us.

The extra day did allow for an excellent meal at a nearby fine dining restaurant.

Lobster risotto and a half duck at Gentelin’s restaurant in Alton

The next morning 10 Looper boats plus one TowBoatUS rescue boat transited Mel Price lock together by 7:30am. It was a very early start, with engines running at 6:15am! It really does make a difference when we travel as a group through the commercial locks. There were no delays at the second lock of the day, and we were all through by 9:30am, unprecedented!

Dick read that 30% of the world’s grain passes through Mel Price lock, which gives you an idea of just how busy the Mississippi River is.

It was a very long run that day. While St Louis was interesting, this part of the Mississippi is very industrial. We passed many tows, the last one pushing 24 barges. We also had a chance to look at a popular Looper stop. Hoppies is the only fuel stop for many miles on this stretch of the waterway. It is not a real dock, instead it is several barges that boats tie up to, then later arrivals must raft up. Although it is part of Looper legend, we are thinking that we may well give Hoppies a miss when we pass through in future. We tied up at that night at another popular Looper stop, on the wall below Kaskaskia Lock, a short detour up the Kaskaskia River. There were 5 boats that night, so there was room for all and nobody had to raft up.

A 12 barge string passes under the bridge in St Louis

Hoppies, a famous Looper stop on the Mississippi

A tow passes derelict moorings on the Mississippi

Dredging near the shore on the Mississippi

The next day was a 100-mile run with a 7am start, but we were still anchored by 4pm, thanks to a 4-knot current in our favour and a stretch of running fast. Now that we were on the Mississippi (Huckleberry Finn country), the accents of the tow operators became increasingly impenetrable. It was quite amusing to listen to them on the radio when they were talking to each other, clearly a lot of important information was passed along, and we couldn’t understand a word of it, between the strong accents and the jargon. Fortunately, they were easy enough for us to understand when we hailed them to ask for passing instructions.

We stopped at a good anchorage just north of the town of Cairo, where the Ohio River joins the Mississippi. Unfortunately, while well off the river, it was under a highway bridge, so quite noisy. Two other Looper boats joined us. This was our last anchorage of the season, and while the anchor came up cleanly, the winch was really struggling, so we will need to get it looked at. We suspect it was overstressed when we were stuck at La Grange lock.

Once again Nine Lives was covered in mayflies. It was a surprise to see them, so I looked it up and discovered that mayflies are not just for May, they hatch right through September! We were also troubled for the first time by small biting gnats, and even larger biting flies.

The next day we turned up the Ohio River. We went from travelling with help from a 4-knot current on the Mississippi, to fighting against at least 3 knots resistance. Some of the time on the Ohio we were making as little as 4.6 knots against the current (our normal speed is about 8 knots). There were a large number of anchored barges, but fortunately not many underway, possibly due to construction operations at Olmstead Lock.

We arrived at Olmstead Lock at 11:30, and had to wait for the day’s blasting program to finish. We had to anchor in 25 feet of water against a 3-knot current, not ideal. We could have been held up as late as 2pm, but fortunately we were allowed to proceed at noon. The water on the Ohio was so high that the lock was not operating. Instead, we passed right over the dam, against a strong current that increased to 4.5 knots over the wickets. It was a strange experience.

We were at Paducah town dock by 3:30, but the free dock was already very busy, so we had to stay on the fuel dock the first night. It is a rather stinky location, because that corner traps a lot of dead fish and algae, and the power pedestal is too far away for our cords to reach, so we cannot run the air conditioners without the generator.

Paducah was definitely the most interesting town on this part of our journey. The town was laid out by William Clark (remember Lewis and Clark from your American history classes) in 1827. It is believed he named the town Paducah after the Comanche people of the Western plains, who were known as the Padoucas by regional settlers. The town became an important port on the river system, as well as being a railroad hub. It is clear from the beautiful old houses and downtown buildings that there was once a great deal of wealth in the town. The area has been prone to flooding, with a flood in 1937 that rose to more than 60 feet. The earthen levee that should have protected the town was overwhelmed, so a substantial concrete flood wall was built. Part of this wall has been painted with over 50 murals depicting the history of the town and the area.

Paducah town dock. The incredibly tall pilings are in anticipation of flooding.

An interesting fried mozzarella dish at Cynthia’s

Cheesecake to finish a great meal at Cynthia’s

We enjoyed a wonderful dinner that first evening at Cynthia’s, excellent fine dining. The town looked fascinating as we walked to the restaurant. After several very long travel days I was glad to have a quiet day while Dick explored the town. He returned in time to help 6 Looper boats tie up. We made plans to head out to dinner an hour early, so I would have time for a few pictures. As Dick set the ladder into the slots at the side of the boat for me to get off, a big Sabre came round the point and waked all the boats so badly that our ladder fell into the water (it was 10 feet deep under the boat, and in spite of fishing with our longest boathook, there was no chance of retrieval). The owner of the Sabre happened to be coming into the dock for fuel and an overnight stop. He was very sorry, and said he would replace the ladder, even offered to build something temporary. When we returned from dinner there was a step ladder on our deck, kindly left for us by a fellow Looper, but unfortunately it was not useable. Dick was able to pull the stern of the boat in closely enough to the dock for me to get on.

Our dinner that second evening was interesting. Clearly a talented chef, but much better quality control was needed. The steaks were tasty, but neither the asparagus nor the potatoes should ever have left the kitchen.

Another view of historic downtown Paducah

The steaks were delicious, the vegetables not so much.

In the morning Dick was able to find and order a replacement ladder. He showed the receipt to the owner of the Sabre, who immediately handed over the full cost in cash. Interestingly, while the owner was full of apologies, his adult son, travelling with him, had nothing to say and scowled the whole time. If we were to make a guess, we think it was in fact the son driving, and he didn’t see anything wrong with his speed and was annoyed with his father who likely told him off for it. Perhaps a good lesson for him anyway, the law says that you are responsible for your wake, regardless of whether it is a “no wake zone”, if you cause any damage.

We had an uneventful passage to Green Turtle Bay, except that the current was even stronger against us on the Cumberland River. At one point we could see the current push a red marker right under the water. Even when it bobbed up again only the top third was visible. We ran fast for part of the day to make up some time. We passed several huge quarries on the journey, an enormous scar on the landscape. The first, and largest, was purchased in 1903 by Barrett & Son. The company was based in Cincinnati and ran barges on the rivers. At the time, the quarry extended for a mile along the bank of the Cumberland River. Today the quarry is operated by LaFarge Aggregates. As we passed, we could see a barge being loaded with sand. The loading is done from one end, and you can see in the photo that the stern of the barge is only a few feet above the water, while the bow is still very high. The sheer weight of materials that these barges hold is incredible, and then to think that they are attached together in strings of 12, 18, even 24 barges, all pushed by a single tow.

Cumberland River. The current is so strong only the top third of this marker is visible.

LaFarge Aggregates quarry on the Cumberland River

Approaching a tow on the Cumberland River

Barkley Lock is a 57-foot lift into Lake Barkley. As we made our way in, we could see that the port side was roiled by jumping 3- and 4-foot silver carp. Unfortunately, we had already committed to tying that side! It proved impossible to snap a picture that captures the sheer number of jumping fish, but you can see how big they are and how high they jump. Some jumped under Nine Lives, hitting the tunnel between the hulls with a loud crack! Fortunately, none ended up on board (or worse, in the dinghy). We have heard from others that if they get on board, it is a heck of a mess to clean up, because they bleed all over as well as slime.

Green Turtle Bay is a large resort and marina on Lake Barkley. Many Loopers stop there, often for a few days or even weeks. It is a very pleasant resting stop after a fairly gruelling trip down the rivers. We only stayed one night, expecting to be back several times in future. We walked up to the tavern, and enjoyed the evening.

Loaded fries at the tavern in Green Turtle Bay

The passage to Paris Landing State Park was straightforward. The docks were nearly empty, but we were delighted to catch up with fellow Loopers on Island Girl, who we first met in 2018. We could see from our Nebo app that there was a very large pack of Looper boats making their way south. With limited transient slips available this year, and the concerns about our anchor winch, it was better to stay ahead of the group.

As we headed south on Kentucky Lake, it was a little confusing. We were actually up-bound, as the lake/river system is flowing north at that point. Dick had to remember which direction we were travelling when calling the tows.

Kentucky Lake is a reservoir created by the construction of Kentucky Dam in 1938 to 1944. The reservoir drains the entire Tennessee Valley watershed, which covers an area of 40,200 square miles. It is part of the Tennessee Valley Authority, helping reduce flooding on ten million acres of the lower Ohio and Mississippi rivers. The top of the gates on Kentucky Dam are at 375 feet above sea level. The TVA requires that all permanent structures be built at 381 feet above sea level. This results in what we thought were very strange looking houses and cabins on enormous stilts along the waterway. The lake is long and narrow, and for much of its length it appears to be more like a river, and has a fairly strong current. Where it widens, it tends to be very shallow, as we discovered when we tried to follow a more scenic route closer to the western shoreline!

Houses on Kentucky Lake must be built with the main floor above 381 feet above sea level.

Although the lake may help with flood control, erosion can still cause problems where the banks are sand instead of shale or other rock. We passed one area where there was evidence of land slips, and at one point we could see a house perched precariously on the edge of the hillside, with debris at the bottom where another structure had been completely destroyed. In spite of the obvious danger, it appears that the house is still occupied. We could also see places along the water where the limestone banks had been undermined by the flowing water. Some quite substantial houses were built above, and we thought that the owners would likely not have chosen to built there if they had seen the site from the water!

An old lighthouse and homes on the shore of Kentucky Lake

We stopped next at Cuba Landing, and enjoyed dinner on Nine Lives with Ken and Karen from Island Girl. I tried a new recipe for the pressure cooker, a sausage and bean cassoulet. Another keeper! We traded stories of people we had met and places we had been on the loop since our last meeting.

Nine Lives running fast to make up some time

The run to Clifton was pretty, with the leaves just beginning to turn, and bald cypresses looking picturesque in the afternoon light. There was a lot to look at, mostly cottages and homes along the river, rather than the industry we had been seeing since Chicago. Clifton was not the most salubrious marina, with many small biting insects, especially after dusk, and the restaurant is outdoors. The food was rather strange, but we had a lovely evening in company with Loopers from California who were only 5 days from their start. Unfortunately, those small biting insects thought that Dick was dinner, and by the end of the evening his legs were covered in bites.

Bald cypresses and early autumn colours on Kentucky Lake

It was another easy trip from Clifton to Aqua Yacht at Iuka. Dick phoned Pickwick lock when we were an hour away to get a sense of how long we might have to wait. The lockmaster said that if we could get there within half an hour, we would go straight through with the boat that had been waiting two and a half hours, otherwise we would have to wait several hours for a big tow to lock through. Dick radioed Island Girl and asked, “do you have another gear?”. They did, and our two boats took off and made it with time to spare. We were tied up in our covered slip at Aqua Yacht on Pickwick Lake in Iuka, Mississippi by 2:30pm.

First though, we had to find the slip! Then once we were in, we discovered that we had no mobile signal whatsoever, and no way to contact the marina to ask for the wi-fi code. Fortunately, the owner of the slip, who we are renting from for the next 3 winters, showed up very soon after we arrived and was able to give us the information we needed.

The covered slip where Nine Lives will stay for the next 3 winters

The next morning, we had Nine Lives hauled out to check the situation with the sponsons. We suspected that they were filled with water again, as happened the last two seasons. I have never been on the boat when it was being lifted by a travel lift before, not really an experience I wish to repeat. Once we were at grade level, we had to climb off over the bow pulpit. I declined the privilege of returning the same way, and chose instead to walk over to the fuel dock to meet Dick and the dockhands.

We were very surprised to find that the sponsons did not have any water in them. Also, the props are in excellent shape. The tech was very impressed that they were not dinged. Good driving on Dick’s part!

We had dinner at Aqua Grille, the onsite restaurant. The food was very good pub food, but they do not serve wine, only beer and mixed drinks!

After a day and a half of sorting, organizing, packing, and cleaning, we were ready to head out on Sunday morning. Nine Lives will snooze until next June in her covered slip, in the water for the first winter in some years. Dick will be back to check on her and take a couple of small space heaters to keep the engine room warm in the case of freezing temperatures. He will also drain the water system. We took off all cans and jars this year, again, in case of freezing weather.

We stopped overnight outside Atlanta, and were happy to arrive home in Hilton Head by noon. This concludes the Nine Lives 2021 voyages. We travelled 2112.5 miles, underway for a total of 244.1 hours. We passed through 13 locks. We spent time in 7 states, and our journey took 119 days.

The story will resume some time in June of 2022.

Nine Lives route and speeds for September 2021

August 24 to September 14, Milwaukee to Peoria

The swallows visited our rail on our last morning in Milwaukee, twittering to each other, and generally enjoying the perch out of the wind. Yes, the wind. Our voyage to Kenosha was the worst yet this summer. Even though we went at fast speed, we pounded through waves that were twice what was forecast. I needed to lie down for hours after arrival. The bedside lamp fell over for the first time since our miserable experience on the Neuse River in North Carolina in 2017. To add insult to injury, my bathroom was filthy, as the pounding made water come up through the sink and threw the dirty, semi-diluted contents of the S-trap as high as the top of the mirror and even onto the ceiling. If you can imagine taking the contents of the trap under your sink and flinging it all over your bathroom you have an idea of what it was like. Dick thought I should take a picture and share it, but the photos in this blog are meant to be enjoyable, not an emetic!

Kenosha was very hot and humid, and except for walking to dinner one evening at the best of the limited restaurant choices I stayed on board. Dick is made of sterner stuff, and set out on his bicycle to explore the extensive waterfront parks. Kenosha is mainly a bedroom community, for both Milwaukee and Chicago, with a lot of attractive townhouses and a very nice waterfront centered on the marina. There is even a water park fountain for kids.

Kenosha marina and the remains of an industrial chimney

Another sculpture in Kenosha’s waterfront park

Kenosha was once an industrial city, but today, nearly 50% of the city’s residents commute to other locations. There are several educational institutions, and it is the headquarters of Snap-on Inc, and Jockey International. Initially called Southport, Kenosha was an important Great Lakes shipping port. For much of the 20^th century cars and trucks were built here, including such well-known brands as Rambler, Nash, AMC, and later Renault.

Dick learned an interesting lesson during this stop. If you walk into a barber shop, and all of the barbers have very short, military style haircuts, as do the other customers, run, do not walk, to another location! Although he explained carefully what he wanted, he should also have been suspicious when his barber set the chair so that Dick could not see what he was doing. He realized his mistake when he heard and felt the electric razor take a swath of hair from his neck to above the ear. At that point there was nothing for it but to let him finish the job. It will of course grow out, but for now I can’t decide whether the cut looks more like a good-old-boy or a 9-year-old.

Some days just don’t improve. Wasps descended on Nine Lives, entering the screens through small gaps. This was also the first we have seen of biting flies.

Kenosha municipal bathhouse from the early 20th century

Wine Knot Restaurant in a historic building

A burger and meatloaf at Wine Knot Restaurant

From Kenosha we had a quick run to Waukegan and the much-anticipated Great Dinghy Swap. Once again, on arrival we learned that in spite of having booked weeks before, the marina had no slip assignment for us. They first tried to put us into a 17-foot-wide slip, but I am now an old hand at judging widths and calling out to dockhands to confirm. Eventually we were given a t-head on the, shall we say, less salubrious side of the marina. Part of the docks on that side are completely derelict, and even the part we were in had seagulls (and seagull droppings) in abundance. At least it was an easy distance to the shower facility and also to the path leading to the boat launching ramps.

We tied up and connected the power, and turned on the air conditioners. Within seconds, everything turned off, and Dick discovered that the power cord had fused. After it was finally pried off and the remaining 30-amp cord connected again, the AC pump was not working (it’s a new pump), and there were also some other electrical anomalies. Dick left to check in, and planned to head to the nearby boatyard to see if he could get power cord and fitting replacements. He returned very shortly, having realized that the configuration of the marina meant it was such a long distance to the marina office that he needed to ride his bike! Off he went, and meanwhile, back at the boat, more wasps started appearing. Fortunately, the electrical anomalies sorted themselves out, and by very careful power management we were able to manage with the single 30-amp input.

The next morning was New Dinghy Day! I was somewhat concerned about the waves. From the boat ramp where he took delivery, Dick had to go right out into the Lake and then cross a short stretch of open water before entering the marina. He was absolutely delighted with how the new Highfield dinghy handled. On arrival he lifted the dinghy in the davits, and was pleased that his carefully considered engineering plans, including scale drawings, all executed without having either Nine Lives or the new dinghy present, worked perfectly. The new dinghy hangs perfectly in the davits and looks splendid. We tied Minnie up beside us to await the handover to her buyer the next morning. I chuckled when I heard a small boy in a passing boat shout to his Dad, “Look Dad, they have two dinghies!”

The new dinghy is so stable compared to Minnie

Another project involved glue. The new, quite expensive pair of boat shoes that Dick bought earlier in the summer had the insoles continuously slipping out. Gorilla glue was suggested and duly purchased. The instructions were read, insoles affixed inside the shoes, and then there may have been a slight miscalculation. In spite of the distaff side of the family’s concerns, the instruction to clamp together the newly glued pieces, was taken to mean that putting the shoes on and wearing them for a while would be an ideal way to ensure adhesion. It worked. An hour later, adhesion presumably achieved, Dick decided to go for a bike ride, necessitating a change of shoes. I bet you have already guessed what is coming. Yes indeed, the shoes were firmly glued to Dick’s feet, and required both of us to pry them off. The operation was made more difficult by my inability to concentrate, I was laughing so hard!

Sunday morning there was a small craft warning. The plan was to take Minnie around to the boat ramp at 9am, but as the waves kicked up, Dick moved the time up to 7am. I couldn’t decide which would be worse, watching as he negotiated the wind and waves in the very tippy boat, or not watching. I decided to watch, in case I needed to call the Coast Guard for a rescue. (Dick did all the sensible things, wearing his life jacket, carrying the hand-held radio, and putting all the paperwork, phone, etc into a drybag). The trip actually required him to tack back and forth to avoid being swamped, but he made it safely to the channel. Fishermen on the shore shouted at him that he should slow down as it was a no-wake zone starting at the entrance. He shouted back that not getting swamped by following waves trumped the no-wake rule! In due course he arrived safely at the boat ramp.

The new buyer arrived with two helpers and his wife, and a panel truck to load Minnie into. The motor proved harder to remove than expected, requiring two trips back to Nine Lives for tools. The whole operation went as hoped, although there was a great deal of grunting (and possibly muttered curses), as the extremely heavy Minnie was lifted into the waiting truck.

The men get ready to get Minnie out of the water. Note that they have given the heavy motor to the girl to hold!

Dinner that evening was very enjoyable, with 4 Looper guests joining us for a ham and potato casserole. We remembered that there are leaves for the table in the salon, making it much more comfortable for seating 6.

We had an uneventful return to Chicago, with a slip assignment in the same marina and even on the same t-head. The difference was that whereas on our last visit we were given the whole t-head, this time they gave us only half of it, and swore that another boat was scheduled for the other half (nobody arrived). This meant we had to tie closer to the end of the dock, and thus closer to the bad driving habits of the many weekenders stopping for fuel and pump-outs at the next dock. We had one near miss as we sat and watched, Dick had to shout to get the driver to stop backing up before he hit us.

Our stay in Chicago was the time for the Great Car Shuffle. We rented a car, and drove north to St Ignace. This is the alternative jumping off point for Mackinac Island, and we found it quite charming. We made a note that if we ever return by boat, we will be sure to stop there. We had a good dinner at a busy family restaurant. Looking around, I noticed that more than half of the men in the restaurant were wearing hats (usually baseball caps). When I was a child, women were still considered to be somewhat undressed unless they were wearing a hat, especially in church or going to the theatre, and they kept them on indoors. Men also wore hats, but absolutely took them off indoors. So I can’t help but find it disrespectful when I see these caps at the dinner table. On the other hand, looking at these men, I am probably just as happy for them to keep those hats on, if the alternative is setting them down on the table!

After dinner we crossed the road to a charming converted red London double decker bus for the best salted caramel ice cream I have ever had.

You can see how they converted the London bus

The next morning, we had about an hour and a half drive to Drummond Island, where we had left our car. Dick fended off a request to buy it, and we set off in convoy to return to Chicago. The next day Dick drove our car to Mississippi, to the boatyard where we will complete this year’s voyaging. He flew back the following morning from Memphis, arriving in Chicago shortly after 3pm. Unfortunately, it was a rainy afternoon, and there were few taxis to be had, so it took until 6:30pm to get back to the boat.

The next evening we walked to a local steakhouse and enjoyed a really excellent lobster bisque and salad, okay steaks, and an outstanding dessert. We chose a different route to walk back, that proved to be an error of judgement on my part! We got caught up in the audience heading for a rock concert at Soldier Field. The police diverted pedestrians from several streets, making the walk considerably longer than it should have been.

Dick heads out for a grocery run with his bike trolley

Filet steak and assorted sides at Rare Steakhouse

Pedicabs and people, heading to the rock concert

The following morning, we rode our bikes along the extensive waterfront paths to join one of the Architecture Boat Tours of the Chicago River. The tour was very interesting and enjoyable, and gave us a very good idea of what we would be seeing when we made the same trip on Nine Lives. The bike ride to and from the tour was rather more exciting that I was happy about. On a holiday weekend the paths were full of bikes, walkers, and even roller skaters, and it was complete chaos.

We had a really enjoyable evening at the Chicago Yacht Club with our friends Thor and Jim. We had hoped to dock there on a reciprocal basis, but as with almost every other yacht club we have tried over the years, we were told there was no room for us. Their nearly empty docks and the presence of many Loopers on the mooring balls told a different story. Our return to Burnham Harbor took forever, getting caught up in a huge traffic jam for the second night of the rock concert at Soldier Field. We could not believe how much traffic there was at 8:30pm, especially as the concert started at 8:00!

High winds kept us an extra day in Chicago. We dropped the new dinghy and went for a harbour tour. It is so much easier and simpler to raise and lower, and so much more stable on the water. That evening we enjoyed docktails and chat at the bar with other Loopers.

We made an early start the next day and passed through the easy first lock into the Chicago River without issue. It was nice to get through the city before all the tour boats and pleasure craft were out, but we then had to wait an hour for the Amtrak Railway bridge, that remains down for rush hour. We passed our first barges, 6 and 8 being towed. The operators were all very friendly and helpful.

This is a good time to explain about barges, tugs, and tows. Barges are huge, low, flat containers, used for shipping such things as sand and gravel, chemicals, coal, grain, even mulch. They will be lashed together. We have seen as many as four deep and three across. The sort of vessel we all think of as a tugboat, drives these enormous sets of barges. The vessel is correctly referred to as a “tow”, even though much of the time it is in fact pushing. Often the whole assembly is too big for a lock, so it has to be separated and then reassembled after passing through in parts. This is the reason for the incredibly long delays at locks for pleasure boats. Commercial shipping gets priority, but fortunately there is a rule that after 3 commercial lock-throughs, pleasure boats must be able to pass. So far (touch wood), we have found the lock operators very cooperative and helpful.

Barges along the canal, Chicago to Joliet

Spillway at the confluence of the Chicago River and the Calumet River

Confluence of the Chicago River and the Calumet River

Our wait for the first lock gave the other Looper boats who had started out that day time to catch up. We had arrived at 1:30, and went through just before 4pm. Once through, all the boats (now 7 of us) arrived safely at the town wall in Joliet.

Joliet is the third-largest city in Illinois. In 1673, Louis Jolliet paddled up the Des Plaines River and camped on a huge earthwork mound, a few miles south of present-day Joliet. This mound shows on historic maps as Mont Joliet, but it has since been flattened due to mining. Once an industrial city, Joliet is today transitioning from a steel and manufacturing area to a commuter suburb. Like many cities, the downtown has suffered from relocation of residents and businesses to the suburbs, although more recently there is a movement to return to the centre. New downtown businesses include casinos, a minor-league baseball field, and theatres. Amazon is the city’s largest employer. The free town wall is the most convenient stopping point for Loopers making their way down the river. There have been no incidents reported recently, but the presence of a large police station directly across the river is comforting. Patrol cars visit the park on the side of the river where we dock on a regular basis, and I heard them several times during the night. We did not consider leaving the boat for dinner or exploration.

After consultation with the rest of the group, nobody else volunteered, so Dick offered to be the spokesman and phone the next lock at 6am. The lock-keeper said, “I can get you through if you all come now.” That turned out to be quite a fraught morning, as our drip coffee maker failed. Disaster!! Fortunately, we also have a french press on board for contingencies, as well as an excellent thermal jug, so Dick is able to make coffee using the kettle. We walked along the dock and woke up a few of the other Loopers to let them know that they should leave as soon as possible. The rest heard the sounds of engines, and all arrived in time for the lock-through. This was the first of 3 locks that day.

Barges on the river between Joliet and Ottawa

It was great to meet Islena, a 40 ft Endeavourcat, and also meet Royal Coachman again, a beautifully restored Endeavour sailboat. Three Endeavours together is quite unusual, we are a rare breed! The owners of Islena had toured Nine Lives in Norfolk in 2018. Mimi loved our boat, and was quite determined to have a catamaran. It took Mike a while to come around, but they are delighted with their choice.

At the second lock, Dick and I had a bit of a last-minute scramble. We were rigged for a starboard tie, but on arrival in the lock we discovered that the only floating bollards were port-side, so I had to make a fast change of lines and fenders. By the time it was done, we were at the bollard, and I had to secure the boat while Dick manoeuvred, the opposite to our usual locking procedure. 3 other boats rafted to us, not a time to get it wrong!

I should describe these big river locks, as they are quite different from what we have been used to on the canals. To begin with they are huge, hundreds of feet long, and with a lift of 20 to 40 feet. Spaced along the lock sides are special posts (bollards) that are set into the lock wall and actually float up and down as the lock fills and empties. So you manoeuvre the boat alongside, and put a line from your mid-ship cleat around the bollard and then tie it back to your boat. It is important to stay close and watch carefully as the lock fills or empties, in case the bollard hangs up or your line is jammed. You have a very sharp knife ready to cut the line if something happens. Because there are only 3 or 4 bollards on each side of the lock, it is often necessary for small boats like us to “raft up”. Yes, in these locks the typical 36 ft to 48 ft Looper boat is “small.” The first boat in is secured to the bollard, and then the next boat ties up to them, and then the next, and so on. So the responsibility to get it right rests first with the boat tied to the lock wall! Nine Lives is bigger than many Looper boats, and in fact we prefer to be the ones first on the wall.

Our group of 10 were through that second lock before 11am, very good luck compared to some stories we read about on the forum. Getting everyone in, and rafted up was like herding cats, as each boater has a slightly different interpretation of the instructions being given, not to mention a different level of patience while waiting!

Loopers in a line, Islena in front, Royal Coachman next to last

Loopers in the lock, Islena rafted up first beside us

We are enjoying the Illinois River very much. There is a tremendous amount of wildlife, completely unexpected for me. It is very pretty, and even in the industrial areas it is interesting. We have seen several different kinds of egrets and herons, both golden and bald eagles, pelicans in great rafts, cormorants, and of course the usual ducks and geese. Travel on the river is so much more interesting than on the Great Lakes. As another Looper put it, on the Great Lakes you go for ten hours and then stop and see something interesting, because you are so far away from shore during the travel. In comparison, on the river you see something interesting for the entire journey!

We have now learned that PC does not always stand for “politically correct.” Of course, I am sure all of us Loopers are PC anyway, but on the river, PC stands for Pleasure Craft, and we communicate with tows and locks by announcing ourselves as Pleasure Craft Nine Lives.

Our third lock that day was Marseilles (pronounced Marcellis, to our amusement). This one took a lot longer to transit. First, we all had to hang back at a wide area of the river to allow a huge tow to exit the narrow two-mile channel. On arrival at the lock, we had to wait while the next tow exited the lock. In spite of the long waits, we were all docked in Heritage Marina at Ottawa before 4:30pm. Many Loopers transit this day’s 3 locks and arrive after dark, so we were well pleased.

The marina looks after Loopers very well, and is a model of organization that other marinas would do well to emulate. The harbor staff monitor Nebo, the tracking system that many of us use, so they know when we are all approaching and when we get through the Marseilles lock. After everybody exits the lock, we are all called to listen to channel 68, and we are told our slip assignments, and who should proceed to their dock and who should hold back inside the entrance. This way there are enough dock hands to help each boat tie up, and the whole operation goes like clockwork. During the Looper season they may have as many as 20 boats, all arriving at the same time, but their procedure makes it easy for everyone. After all are tied up, there is an excellent 2-hour briefing offered, that covers the river system as far south as Paducah, KY. We had dinner after at the onsite restaurant. The food was fine, although nothing special.

It was nice to have a quiet day. Although we had no difficulties, it is surprising how tiring the three-lock day had been. We cleaned the boat, and I cooked on board. It was a recipe for fish and shrimp in tomato sauce. Dick liked it, but I didn’t, and to quote his Dad, “what the cook don’t like, we don’t eat,” so I have expunged that recipe from my repertoire. Part-way through dinner preparation, the propane tank ran out. This was a further disruption to the coffee making in the morning, as we were now reduced to boiling water in a pan on our single induction burner!

Consulting with other Loopers, we determined that we would be 8 boats the next morning, so again it was agreed that Dick would make contact with the lock. He got up at 5:30 (coffee making takes longer when done with the French press). After discussing things with the lock-keeper, messages were sent to the 8 boats suggesting a 7:30 departure. Ultimately, we were 12 in the lock! We were definitely getting better at the whole operation, including rafting up. That lock is beside a State Park called Starved Rock. It is a haven for wildlife, and there were huge rafts of pelicans in the shallows. As we all made our way into the lock, many of them took off and flew overhead, swooping and wheeling around, an incredible sight.

passing a barge at a wider point in the river

High water has undercut the trees on the river bank

That evening we anchored behind an island off the river near Henry with 5 other Looper boats. There was a bit of drama when one of the group decided they had dropped their hook too close to the shore, and they decide to move. When they tried to lift their anchor, they discovered they had snagged a huge waterlogged stump. It took helpers from 3 of the other boats to get it free, but it was a marvellous demonstration of how wonderful Loopers are at helping each other.

This was also our first experience with Asian Carp. They are a group of invasive species that is causing havoc on the inland waterways. They include bighead carp, black carp, grass carp, and silver carp. Asian carp are fast-growing and prolific feeders that out-compete native fish and leave a trail of environmental destruction in their wake. They were initially imported for use in aquaculture ponds, but they were accidentally released into the Mississippi River system. Silver carp are easily frightened by passing boats, and leap 8 to 10 feet into the air, sometimes causing injury to boaters they collide with. They can grow to more than 80 pounds and 4 feet long, and they live for 15 to 20 years. As we made our way into the anchorage, we kept hearing big splashes. Suddenly I could see these huge fish leaping high out of the water and landing with a loud slap. Some Loopers have had the unfortunate experience of them landing on (and even in) their boat. We are keeping fingers crossed that I do not have to write about that particular experience in our next blog!

That evening I made one of our favourite meals, the very English “toad in the hole”, using the countertop oven and the induction burner. This is a large Yorkshire pudding, with brat sausages cooked in the pudding, served with lashings of gravy and of course peas. We were delighted with the results, and happy to know that we can make what is one of our favourite family supper dishes more often.

Ultimate recycle, a tow and barges are now a pub

The next day turned out to be 8 hours of travelling, just to end up exactly where we started. We knew that the marina at Peoria did not have space for us until Tuesday, but the information Dick had said that we would be able to tie up at the City dock for one night. If the City dock was full, there is an anchorage directly across the river, so we would be able to dinghy across to get to the restaurant for dinner. After 4 hours of travel, we arrived in the city to see that there were two sailboats taking up the two outer wells at the City dock, sticking out so far into the fairway that access to the wall was prevented, even for boats much smaller than we are. As it happened, we had been warned by the nearby IVY Club harbormaster that tying up at the City dock is not safe, especially if you want to leave the boat, so we were not that sorry. It is a pity, because there are quite extensive docks there, all at various state of dilapidation, and so much more could be made of them. Clearly Peoria, unlike other waterfront cities we have visited, has no interest in improving or updating their waterfront for visitors.

We proceeded across the river to the designated anchorage, but it was completely unsuitable. The depth under the boat was as little as 2.5 feet and as much as 6 feet. The calculation for safe anchoring is 7 to 1, so if you calculate 14 feet (from where the anchor is on the boat to the river bottom), multiply by 7, you need to put out about 100 feet of chain. This allows the boat to “swing” around where the anchor is embedded in the bottom. So, there must be enough room for that swing, and if the bottom is too shallow in that swing circle you risk running aground. This would tend to ruin your sleep! Anyway, we felt that this so-called anchorage was too close to the busy river, with barge traffic running 24 hours a day and limited depths and swinging room. We made the disappointing decision to head back up river towards the last night’s anchorage. We did make a couple of attempts to find a closer alternative, but at each place we left the channel the depths shelved alarmingly. Four hours later we were back where we started. Henry Island is a very nice anchorage, but we wished we had better information and had just remained there for the day.

On our journey we saw pelicans, great and snowy egrets, little blue herons, tricolor herons, golden eagles, turkey vultures and wild turkeys. In the evening we watched three deer swim across the channel between the islands.

We returned to Peoria the next day, again enjoying the wildlife along the river. Our slip at IVY Club was waiting, and a fellow Looper walked over to catch our lines.

Peoria is thought to be the oldest European settlement in Illinois. It is a shipping centre for a large agriculture area that includes production of corn, soybeans, and livestock. Peoria used to be the headquarters of Caterpillar, Inc, until its relocation in 2018. There is still wealth in the city, as shown by the beautiful homes on the famous Grandview Drive, that runs along the top of the bluff overlooking the river. Healthcare and associated businesses account for roughly 25% of Peoria’s economy today, and there are still manufacturing and related industries.

That evening, after it became clear that there was no safe bike route to our chosen restaurant, we took a taxi. This was a highly rated local steakhouse. The 80’s style salad bar and the plastic tablecloths told the story. It was busy, with lots of families, and the food was not bad, but the whole experience was not what we had hoped.

The next morning, Dick got out his bike and special trolley, and dragged it up the incredibly steep hill with the 15lb (empty) propane tank and then rode 6 miles to get it filled. He returned with 35lbs at the back. We have some concern about the condition of his brakes after the ride down that hill, but he is off again today for a grocery run.

Yesterday evening we took another taxi to a very nice restaurant. This one was at the top of the big hill, and the food was very good. We really enjoyed the cheese and charcuterie board to start, and my shrimp and Dick’s cioppino were excellent. I had been looking forward to Dick’s description of the restaurant’s famous whisky bar. We had talked about sipping from their extensive offerings while waiting for the return taxi. However, it was not to be. Dick’s inner Dutchman/adopted Yorkshireman kicked in, and he proposed that we should walk back to the boat. It was “just over a mile and all downhill, and a lovely evening.” Beautiful houses to see were also promised. They were beautiful, what you could see from the silhouettes in the soft garden lighting at twilight. It was soon dark, the hill was steep, it was hot and humid, and I had not dressed for a long walk in sandals. Dick thoroughly enjoyed the post-prandial exercise. I did not. Tonight we will eat here at the marina, and we hope that upcoming locations offer better bike or walking options for restaurants!

August 10 to 24, Green Bay to Milwaukee

In the best literary and television tradition, I left the last entry with a cliff-hanger. Yes, the engine pump was fixed, sort of…

The marine tech eventually arrived to replace the raw water pump with the rebuilt replacement from our Looper friends. He got the replacement in, only to discover that it had not been rebuilt as our friends had been told, and in fact it leaked worse than ours. The tech made several trips to the shop, and the leaking was reduced to a small drip with the admonition to keep a sharp eye on it. The tech was great, not only did he stay after quitting time to make sure the job was done, he also drove us to the restaurant, and absolutely refused to accept a gratuity.

Dinner at Republic Chophouse, a steakhouse, was very good, although it was second only to the Grand Hotel in cost! It is strange that Green Bay seems to be very much a foodie place, with outstanding and innovative restaurants, but no shops to buy gourmet treats.

This would be good place to address a family comment. Family, unlike friends who are usually more diplomatic, say exactly what they think, complimentary or not! Anyway, apparently the general consensus from the Dutch heritage side of the family is that “they seem to be always eating”. Well, this is somewhat true, if eating is defined as trying out interesting restaurants. We have always said that we are “eating our way around the Loop”, and trying all sorts of new eateries as well as local shops is a huge part of the enjoyment of the journey for us. Add in the fun of meeting new friends and sharing docktails, this is what Looping is all about. In fact, the expectation of closed shops and restaurants, or having to eat outside with plastic cutlery and paper plates, was the reason we stayed at home in incredibly hot Hilton Head last summer. Many of our readers have asked me for more food pictures, so I try to oblige.

Having had two pumps replaced this year, one for the fresh water system and one for the starboard engine, got me thinking about pumps in general, how important they are in our lives, and we don’t even think about them. There are pumps in your car, in your dishwasher and your washing machine. Your heating/cooling system may be a big pump. On a boat like ours, they play a vital role, bilge pumps, fresh water pump, shower drain pumps, washing machine, toilets, and 2 of our 3 AC units. We have a bicycle pump to keep air in our tires and top up the fenders when they get too squashy. Each engine has a raw water pump that cools the engine coolant and exhaust, and another inside the engine that circulates the coolant internally. Without these pumps, the engine would get hot enough to burn up the boat.

A noticeable feature of the entrance to Green Bay is the large colony of white pelicans roosting on the islands and outer breakwaters. American White Pelicans are one of the largest North American birds, with a wingspan of 9 feet and weighing up to 30 pounds. They nest in the interior, as far north as northern Canada, and as far south as northern California. They are migratory, spending winters in southern USA and Central America. During much of the 20^th century they were absent from Wisconsin, due to habitat destruction by the draining of wetlands, and the use of DDT. They have now returned and their numbers are increasing every year. We have been seeing them all along the western coast of Lake Michigan and in Green Bay.

Pelicans and cormorants roost in Green Bay

We departed Green Bay on the 10^th as planned, and had a smooth journey to Menominee. The wind kicked up at the end, but we had a very wide slip in the marina and good docking help.

Passing a Lake Freighter heading for the port of Green Bay

The city of Menominee is at the southern tip of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. The area was originally occupied by the Menominee Indian Tribe, but they were displaced and their descendants now live on a reservation in north central Wisconsin. In the 19^th century it was a lumber town, producing more lumber than any other city in the United States. In the early 20^th century, as the lumber business waned, other industries arrived. One of these businesses was Lloyd Manufacturing, which made wicker baby buggies. In 1917, Marshall Burns Lloyd invented an automated process for weaving wicker and manufactured it as the Lloyd Loom. This machine process is still being used today in the production of good quality wicker furniture. The downtown and waterfront have some beautiful old buildings, many of them restored, but the town has little to offer visitors. We enjoyed a decent meal at the best rated restaurant in an interesting historic building.

One of the historic buildings in Menominee

An interesting and unusual door on a building in Menominee

We left early and ran fast for a very choppy passage across Green Bay to the town of Sister Bay in Door County. This is a busy tourist town, with a large boating presence. We were early and had to wait out in the bay for our slip to become available while jet skis and pontoon boats whizzed around us and sailboats took full advantage of their right of way over all power boats.

We had an excellent meal in what I call a basket pub, that is, all the food is served in baskets regardless of whether you eat inside or out. I had the best lobster roll ever, and Dick really liked his fish special (it was walleye). The town is very spread out, with the grocery store and some of the shops at the top of a big hill, but it was worth the climb. On our return we stopped for cappuccinos in a place that advertised, “Come try the worst ice cream some lady on TripAdvisor ever had in her life.” The sense of humour was also apparent in one of the offered ice cream flavours, called “Exhausted Parent”, made with blueberries and a shot of bourbon.

Beautiful hydrangeas in a garden in Sister Bay

Another attractive boutique in Sister Bay

I can’t find much information about Sister Bay, other than to note that it was once a farming community, now reinvented as a tourist destination. There is a common Swedish theme, and possibly the most famous attraction in the village is the Swedish restaurant complex that has a grass roof, typically grazed by goats.

Goats on the roof. Yes, those are live goats.

In the marina we marvelled at the display of incompetence as a very new and expensive boat pulled out of their slip using thrusters. A bad miscalculation resulted in the dock being knocked right off its supports, damaging the boat in the next slip and a small runabout on the other side. When shouted at, the owner called out not to worry, he would take care of it, and he proceeded to leave the marina for his sunset cruise with friends and family on board. Well, he never returned. When we got back from dinner that evening there were 3 local sheriff’s cars in the parking lot, and a lot of discussion going on. Highly unlikely the man got away with it, his details will have been on file with the marina, and there were a lot of witnesses.

We made a quick run a few miles south to Fish Creek ahead of the weather kicking up. The harbour was tight and higgledy-piggledy, with a lot of very large boats. Through the evening the wind and waves really came up, and we felt sorry for all the moored sailboats as they bounced up and down. Some small boats had obviously come in to the harbour for dinner, and were tied to the wall, heaving up and down and scraping on the concrete, and with quite a dangerous crossing when they left.

Fish Creek is another tourist town with lots of interesting shops and restaurants, but in this car culture it is very spread out. We had a long walk to a highly rated pizza place. We chose different pizzas so there would be leftovers to take back to the boat. Dick liked his, mine was merely okay. On the walk, we passed a shop advertising, along with handcrafted gold and silver jewellery, long range rifles and suppressors. Only in America. We decided to give that particular shop a miss.

Temperatures were very pleasant, with slippers and a shawl needed for early mornings, but sunny with light breezes during the day. A wonderful change from the earlier heat and humidity.

Fish Creek is another tourist destination in Door County, with a more upmarket feel compared to Sister Bay a few miles up the road. Behind the village looms Gibraltar Bluff, a huge limestone outcropping that forms part of the western side of the Niagara Escarpment. The founder of the town, Asa Thorp, was an entrepreneur who bought much of the land in the area and constructed the first dock in 1855. Summer tourists began visiting by 1900, and the area became an upscale resort community.

We went for breakfast in the historic White Gull Inn. They offered a “cherrmosa”, champagne with sour cherry juice, an excellent beginning. I followed that with cherry French toast, also delicious. Dick was less adventurous and had an omelette. After breakfast, we wandered around the varied and interesting boutiques in the village. A music shop was a highlight. Not only did they sell instruments and sheet music, they had every imaginable toy, souvenir, Christmas decoration, model, or game you could think of, all with the theme of music. I was tempted by cook books that came in a box with CDs of suitable music to accompany the dinners. Dick was happy to find two pairs of comfortable shoes in a moccasin store, and I found a gorgeous ruana in the alpaca boutique. Outside the alpaca shop were, you guessed it, alpacas. The baby was just six weeks old, and as adorable as they come. It was a beautiful store with many choices, but we limited ourselves to the ruana and several pairs of socks. I also resisted temptation later in a wonderful ladies shop on the main street.

Historic Church of the Atonement in Fish Creek

Lobster bisque at Barringers on our last evening in Fish Creek

It was an easy run to Sturgeon Bay. There was a certain amount of confusion in the marina, as they discovered as we were about to dock that there was not room for us in the assigned slip. We were waved off and sent to another one (which happened to be the same one as our previous visit). We were surprised to find that our cleats already had lines tied on them, that we had to remove and set aside in order to tie our own. Shortly after our arrival, a large and beautiful sailboat was assigned to dock beside us, but it was too wide, and sadly made a large scrape along their beautifully painted hull before managing to reverse out. An hour later, the owners of the slip we were in returned from their cruise and were very surprised to find us occupying their space. They were nice about it, and were willing to dock in the space next to us after they had retrieved their lines, but this has been the story of the summer, marinas not having a clue how to manage their slips and transient reservations.

The St Lawrence Seaway and Great Lake shipping routes close for winter each year, as ice grips the waters and locks close for annual maintenance. Bulk carrier vessels, usually called Lake Freighters, carry heavy cargo such as limestone, iron ore, grain, coal, and salt to the 63 commercial ports around the lakes. Typically, although the St Lawrence River offers an outlet to the Atlantic, different ships carry freight on the Great Lakes from those that ply the world’s oceans. There are thousands of smaller vessels, but only 13 that exceed 1000 feet in length. The question is, where do they all go when shipping stops for the season? Some of them spend their winter layup period in Sturgeon Bay, which is called the shipbuilding capital of the Great Lakes. As we made our way through the inlet to the marina, we passed the huge yards, with several freighters in for maintenance, and I could see one under construction with the keel laid down and the superstructure being fabricated. There are huge drydock facilities, including two massive buildings where ships could be brought indoors.

Lake Freighters in Sturgeon Bay shipyards

Sturgeon Bay shipyard and covered drydock

We met another Looper boat and enjoyed docktails with them. The next morning the new engine pump we had ordered was installed, and Dick has carefully put away the leaky one to send out for rebuilding after the summer cruising is finished. I was able to join my friends for a game of online bridge in the afternoon.

failed engine raw water pump for rebuilding

We had booked a Segway tour for 5pm, and walked the mile in hot sun to the meeting point, only to receive a text that the guide would be late, which would have meant sitting around for an hour. We cancelled and re-booked for Sheboygan. I had prepared a meal in the slow cooker to be ready for our return. It was a white chicken chili, very tasty and definitely a keeper!

The next day was an easy trip to Kewaunee, and we had great help tying up on the town wall from our fellow Loopers who had arrived ahead of us. There were 3 other Looper boats in town that night, but they were all in a marina over the far side of the inlet, a long way for anyone to walk to shops or restaurants, and clearly intended to be merely an overnight stop. We returned to the cheese shop for more gouda and some Dutch cheese biscuits, and then went on to the fish shop to stock up on smoked salmon.

Dick and I toured the Ludington, a historic tug moored along the wall from us. This tug served in WWII, including participation in the D-Day Invasion in Normandy, towing ammunition barges across the English Channel. It is a sister ship to one that we saw (but did not go on board) in Oswego, New York. It was interesting to see that all the senior crew had cabins with single beds, a desk, and a sink, but all cabins, even the captain and first mate, had to share toilets. We didn’t see where the “ordinary” crew slept, likely in bunk beds, in an area accessed by ladder and below the waterline. As on today’s cruise ships, the higher the status the higher up in the boat the cabins were! Dick was fascinated by the engine room (of course), and was amazed to see that there was a turbo-charger on the 8-cylinder engine, something he had never imagined was available in the 1940’s.

Lives lost in the sinking of two schooner-barges off the shores of Kewaunee in 1886 resulted in the building of the Life Saving Station, active from 1893 to 1947. It is now a private home. Another beautiful historic building is the former Railroad Depot, built in the 1890’s. The depot closed when passenger service ended in 1957, and after being occupied by several businesses it became home to a very keen gardener. I could have spent ages just looking at the wonderful variety of stunning perennials and flowering shrubs.

Dick and Jim decided to check out a new local restaurant, to see whether we should eat there instead of on board. Naturally this check required tasting the beer and enjoying the ambiance. A menu was brought back for the girls to decide, and we all enjoyed a very good pub-style meal.

The run to Sheboygan was our smoothest trip this year, with water like glass and no waves at all. On our first evening we were invited to join Loopers for docktails with 3 other boats. We enjoyed great stories, everyone has amazingly different life experiences, and yet we are all sharing this journey. Now that September approaches, more of the Looper “pack” is beginning to make their way south on both sides of Lake Michigan, in anticipation of passing through Chicago and into the rivers after Labor Day.

Water like glass on the run to Sheboygan

We walked up the hill to the Black Pig, a gastropub with an interesting and innovative menu. The food was excellent, but unfortunately the appetizer and the soup all arrived at the same time as the main course dishes. Our young waitress was mystified when we refused the starters. The manager came and apologised, and the waitress also said all the right things, but it was abundantly clear that as far as she was concerned, putting all the food on the table at the same time was correct and we were just weird tourists asking for it to arrive in a different order! More and more we are experiencing this, to the point where we are having to order appetizers and drinks only, and then order our main course once we see the first dishes.

The next morning, we went for a Segway tour. The guide was on time and better prepared with interesting information about the town. All participants are asked to arrive 15 minutes early, to allow time for training on the Segways. On this occasion there was a family of 4 on our tour. Although they parked at the meeting place well in advance, they then left and did not return until nearly 10 minutes after the starting time of the tour. By the time they all had their training (it was their first experience on Segways), we lost at least 20 minutes out of the 2-hour tour. Vastly inconsiderate, but sadly common these days.

The city of Sheboygan was settled mainly by white settlers from New York and the New England States in the 1830’s followed by waves of German, Dutch and Irish immigrants. In the late 20th century, Hmong refugees from Laos and Southeast Asia settled in the city. Dick noticed that the majority of booths at the farmer’s market were manned by people of clearly Asian descent. The economy is diversified, with a number of industries. Johnsonville, maker of bratwurst sausages, and Kohler, manufacturer of generators and plumbing fixtures, are two of the best-known companies in the area. My first job, when I was 14, was working with my mother, who was the accountant at a Kohler generator distributorship in Toronto. I remember that in those first couple of summers I was paid cash, under a book-keeping line item “bathroom supplies”. I did get a very good grounding in double entry book-keeping, that served me well later when I was looking for work after graduation. Kohler built a model town around its factories in 1900, and to this day the village design and aesthetic are under the control of the company. It is a few miles inland from Sheboygan, so we will not be visiting on this occasion, although one day we would like to see it. Kohler also owns and operates the American Club in the town of Kohler. It includes a top-rated historic hotel, and two famous golf courses.

A former shoe factory, now apartments. Note the sculpture of a chimney sweep on the tall chimney

In the park near the marina are the remains of the Lottie Cooper, a 130 foot long Great Lakes Schooner that capsized off Sheboygan in 1894. She was carrying a cargo of elm wood. The construction is fascinating. The schooner was built in 1896 of white oak, held together with thousands of long iron nails.

The weather returned to being humid, and it was very hot in the sun, but we visited the few interesting shops in the downtown on our way back to the boat. In the evening we rode our bikes to the best rated restaurant. We had planned to get there in the dinghy, but Sheboygan, unlike so many towns and cities on Lake Michigan, has taken very little interest in developing its riverfront for visiting boaters. The former town docks along the riverfront have been destroyed by the high water of recent years, and it is clear there are no plans to restore them. There is a very wide path and boardwalk along both sides of the river, but strangely, bicycles are not allowed on the north side.

Our meal at Lino’s was outstanding. We were able to order and enjoy the meal in true Italian tradition, with shared antipasto, then a shared pasta dish, followed by individual main courses. Dessert and a cappuccino rounded out the meal beautifully. Everything about the restaurant was impressive, with Lino himself showing guests to their tables, and a finely orchestrated staff who worked together and gave prompt service without being intrusive.

High winds extended our stay in Sheboygan by two days, cutting into our planned four-day stop in Milwaukee. On our third morning, Dick decided it would be a good day for one of his signature breakfasts. Unfortunately, we were out of eggs, but Saturday is the farmer’s market in Sheboygan, so shortly after 8am Dick set off on his bike to shop. He returned with blueberries, carrots, fingerling potatoes, and corn on the cob, and as he unloaded it all onto the boat, he realized that the main reason for the excursion had been forgotten. No eggs. So away he went again, to find a convenience store, and then he had to wait for it to open. The eventual breakfast was delicious as always, but no mid-day meal was required!

Waves crash on the breakwater at Sheboygan

In the evening we invited Loopers on board Nine Lives for docktails. It was rainy, so we all sat downstairs in the salon. 10 of us plus an 8-month-old baby and a little dog all fit quite comfortably and shared food and stories!

Following the final repair of the engine pump, Dick decided to give the bilges a good wipe out and clean. A highly respected AGLCA forum member had written that the ideal tool for getting the last of the water from the bilge could be found in the galley. (So far, I have restrained myself from contacting this fellow and taking him to task over his recommendation.) My turkey baster was duly used, and then kindly left back in the sink for washing up. Having washed it, I then presented it to Dick to keep for his very own for future bilge and other boat related usage. They do say we girls tend to marry a man who is just like “dear old dad”. I well remember my father using mum’s pristine pancake flipper to repair the fiberglass on his vintage Studebaker. The main difference was, dad replaced the flipper in the kitchen drawer, still with traces of goo on it!

Our run from Sheboygan was lumpy to start, and then smoothed out, but we ran at 17 knots the whole way, as the wind was due to kick up and there was potential for thunderstorms in the afternoon. We stayed at Lakeshore State Park, a lovely area surrounding a lagoon beside the Discovery Museum in downtown Milwaukee. The docks are very nice, and it is extremely quiet at night. The park is part of miles of new waterfront development, and is full of walkers, joggers, and cyclists from dawn to dark. Most Loopers chose to stay in a marina further along the waterfront, because this one has power only, no water on the docks, and no security, but we feel quite safe here and it is very convenient for downtown.

Milwaukee is the largest city in Wisconsin. It is ethnically and culturally diverse. There was a lot of immigration from Germany in the 19^th century, and the city became known for its brewing industry. The city had an unusual beginning, as it began as 3 separate towns, Juneautown, Kilbourntown, and Walker’s Point. There was intense rivalry between the three, particularly the first two, culminating in the Milwaukee Bridge War of 1845. It began when the Wisconsin legislature ordered a bridge to be built across the Milwaukee River, as the existing ferry service was considered inadequate. Five bridges were built by the rival towns, and in 1845, a schooner rammed into one of them, the Spring Street Bridge. Rumours spread that the ship’s captain had been paid to damage the bridge, and the “war” was on. The Chestnut Street Bridge was partly dismantled by angry townsfolk (the west warders), and collapsed. East warders then brought up an old cannon, although they didn’t fire it, but they did complete the destruction of the Spring Street Bridge and also dismantled a bridge over the Menominee River. Attacks continued for some weeks, and all bridge work had to be done under guard, but by December the enthusiasm had petered out (one wonders how much the winter climate contributed!) Three new bridges were ordered, and the three towns were amalgamated to form the City of Milwaukee. Even today, bridges across the rivers run at an angle that reflects the misalignment of the streets of the original towns on each side of the rivers.

The German immigration of the 19^th century was followed by large numbers from Poland, and many Europeans from other areas, with each ethnic group congregating in the same area. Through the 20^th century a large African American community developed, and also a Hispanic community. Sadly, the racial distribution and lack of opportunity has resulted in a high crime rate and exacerbation of tensions in the city. Fortunately, the downtown redevelopment areas are well lit and very safe for walking during the day and well into the evenings. Downtown is also very bike friendly, with many dedicated bike lanes along the major arteries.

We walked about a mile to an Italian restaurant in the historic Third Ward. This is an interesting revitalized area of mainly condos, both new-builds and sympathetically restored historic warehouses. It comprises the area between the Lake Michigan waterfront and the Milwaukee River, and in addition to many restaurants it is also home to trendy boutiques, art galleries, and theatres. Our meal at Onesto was very good.

The next morning Dick set off on his bicycle to explore, finding several interesting markets, especially one of the best Italian markets we have encountered. He brought home not only the balsamic pearls I had been searching for, but also the tiny pickled sweet peppers that have proved so popular at docktails. I spent the day preparing this installment of the blog, and enjoyed the chance to play bridge online with my friends in the afternoon.

In the middle of the game, I became aware that the boat was rocking far more than would be accounted for by a passing wake. I stepped up top to see that a dramatic thunderstorm was passing through Milwaukee, with high winds and the most amazing sky I have ever seen. The gusts were so strong that I was nearly knocked over as I stood on the foredeck to take the pictures. The winds were followed by lashing rain, worrying, because Dick was still out on his bike. In due course he sent me a text to say he was sheltering in a store while waiting for the rain to pass.

In the evening we walked over to the Rare Steakhouse. It is a very traditional steakhouse, with exceptional steaks and exceptional prices to match. We shared the accompaniments, and still had far too much food, so there will be some interesting leftovers for Dick’s lunch tomorrow. As we walked back to the boat I was intrigued by the “limit 2.5 tons” sign on the pedestrian bridge. I reached into my pocket to get out my phone to take a picture (with the Milwaukee skyline in the background), and discovered that I had failed to pick it up from the seat beside me when I gathered up leftovers, raincoat, and glasses as we left the restaurant. A phone called confirmed that my phone was waiting at the hostess stand, so Dick set off to retrieve it. He thought he might apply for husbandly sainthood for this sacrifice of part of his evening, but at this point I am only prepared to go as far as to forgive the regrettable re-purposing of my turkey baster…

Rare Steakhouse, filet mignon and accompaniments to share

July 23 to August 9, Winthrop Harbor to Green Bay

We had a pleasant passage from Winthrop Harbor to Racine. The wind was higher than we would normally prefer, but it was on the stern, and the waves had a very short period that Nine Lives handles beautifully.

This was the day that things went wrong for me. Arthritis in my hip flared up, making line and fender handling difficult. The next day it was worse, and I spent three days pretty much lying down. In the evenings, with help from a handy walking stick that Dick just happened to have on board, I hobbled very slowly to the local restaurants, but for everything else, Dick was the explorer and photographer.

We had planned to refuel on arrival in Racine (Dick having researched the best fuel prices at the mid-point of this year’s journey). After refuelling, we proceeded to our assigned slip. Having asked for docking help, we were also ably assisted by several of our dock neighbours on both sides, as we shoehorned into our extremely narrow space beside another boat. The watching boaters were suitably impressed with Dick’s deft handling. This is a very large and friendly marina. Most boats tie up stern to the dock, so they can sit at the back and socialize with dockmates. Many spill out onto the docks with chairs and even tables. We haven’t seen this level of socializing since we were in Quebec a couple of years ago. Nice to see. A few boats go out, but mostly people use them as floating cottages for the weekends.

We had been looking forward to a highly rated Spanish tapas restaurant, so that evening, with the help of the cane, I followed Dick slowly up the hill to the restaurant. There we were greeted by a hostess who told us it would be an hour wait to be seated. Asking about the empty tables, and complete lack of a queue outside, we were told that people can phone ahead to be put on the waiting list. In other words, in spite of what the lady had told me on the phone, they do take reservations for a short timeframe. It would have been impossible for me to stand and wait for an hour, so we went elsewhere. Very disappointing, not to mention annoying that someone “in the know” can skip the line.

Racine is the 5^th largest city in Wisconsin, and considered one of the most affordable cities to buy a home. Local industries include heavy equipment manufacturing, Dremel Corporation, Reliance Controls, InSinkErators, and Horlicks, as well as SC Johnson and Son, who make cleaning and chemical products. I have also discovered that SC Johnson make ziplok bags. We are hugely dependent on these clever products, and for many years when we lived overseas our suitcases were filled with boxes of the precious food savers. Other people may think about smuggling diamonds and furs, but we find the reliable, sealable, and high quality plastic bags are far more useful!

Before the Civil War, Racine was known for its strong opposition to slavery, with many slaves escaping to freedom via the Underground Railroad passing through the city. In 1854 Joshua Glover, an escaped slave who had made a home in Racine, was arrested by federal marshals and jailed in Milwaukee. One hundred men from Racine, and ultimately 5,000 Wisconsinites, rallied and broke into the jail to free him. He was helped to escape to Canada.

Racine is also famous for a Danish pastry known as a kringle. It is a large, circular pastry with a white icing top. Unfortunately, the nearest place to enjoy one was too far to visit, so we have missed that particular gastronomic experience.

There was a heat wave during our stay. Dick set off on his bike to visit the zoo. I asked him to bring back a giraffe, and a lion, so he did. He found the zoo rather disappointing, mainly because the animals were smarter than the people and were asleep in the shady corners of their enclosures, so were hard to see. Dick also dropped the dinghy and explored the river, but there was not a lot of interest.

Our next evening, we went to a Wisconsin “Supper Club”. The specialty was prime rib, which was very good. Unfortunately, we did not realize that these traditional supper clubs are something of a throwback to the 60’s. Each entrée comes with soup, salad, and two sides, a very great deal of food. Because we didn’t know this, we ordered appetizers to start. Far too much to eat, so several takeaway boxes went back to the boat with us.

Our third evening in Racine we were delighted to get together again with our friends from Apres Sail. Drinks on their boat, followed by a nice evening at a restaurant. Their planned route coincides with ours several times, so we look forward to our meetings.

As we walked back from the restaurant, we were fascinated by two dragon sculptures at the end of the town market square. They were lit up, and closer inspection showed that they were made of thousands of tiny bottles filled with different coloured liquids. The wings and larger details were some sort of plastic based fabric. There was no plaque or explanation for why they were there or who was the creator.

A closeup showing the construction of the dragons

Our run from Racine to Port Washington was interrupted by a severe weather warning broadcast by the Coast Guard, as a line of strong thunderstorms was about to cross the lake. Fortunately, we had speeded up our trip by running fast, and we were close enough to duck into Milwaukee to wait out the weather. We will be making a proper visit to the city on our trip south, but it was handy to be able to suss out the docks where we already have a reservation for later this month. They are part of a City waterfront park, and were completely empty that day.

The afternoon run to Port Washington was easy, in hot and sunny conditions. We eased into our space on the town wall with excellent help from neighbouring boaters. The wall and town waterfront form part of the marina. It is always enjoyable to sit in the cockpit and watch the world go by. People love to walk along the waterfront and look at the boats, some with dogs of all sizes and shapes. Attractive modern condos line the docks, and then give way to a mixture of new and restored old buildings in the nearby downtown. The whole area is beautifully landscaped and well kept.

The first settlers came to Port Washington in 1835, and by 1848, after many petitions, Congress agreed to build a lighthouse to assist the increasing shipping calling at the port. The first lighthouse deteriorated, so was rebuilt in 1860. Ten years later the Federal Government built the first artificial harbour on the Great Lakes in Port Washington. Pierhead lights followed 15 years later, although the original lighthouse continued to be operated by a resident keeper until 1903.

St Mary’s Catholic Church, a beautiful limestone church dating from 1882, is set on a bluff above the downtown. Dick was very taken by the number of steps required to reach the church. He suggests that attendance would be for the most committed worshippers only! The church tower houses 3 bells, that apparently can be heard for miles.

The restaurant highlight was an establishment called Twisted Willow. Very nice food, with a starter of baked cheese curds. Wisconsin is known for its cheese, and cheese curds are a specialty. They are traditionally eaten uncooked, straight from the dairy, or they are battered and deep fried and served with a sauce. I can tell you that at Twisted Willow they are also delicious baked and served with crisp toasts.

Twisted Willow is a very nice restaurant in a historic building

Once again, I was down for the count, this time by reaction to the arthritis meds I had been taking. Dick had to be the town explorer and photographer. We ended up adding an extra day, partly because of poor conditions on the lake, but also to give me time to visit a doctor. I was relieved to be correct in my diagnosis of what was wrong, and was given helpful advice, no prescriptions required.

The extra day, and my feeling better, allowed for the much-anticipated visit to Duluth Trading, my favourite clothing shop. I stocked up on a couple of things I already knew work very well for me, and also found one or two new offerings. Even Dick bought a few items. Until now we have never been near one of Duluth’s bricks and mortar shops, only bought online.

Swallows gathered on our railings each morning, twittering and grooming

As we left Port Washington there was a huge fishing tournament underway. The evening before there had been live music in the park, and when we looked out at 6am most of the boats in the marina were gone. Dick could not believe the number of empty trailers in the parking lot. All the boats must have headed out before first light. On our way out we saw a sheriff’s boat towing an upside-down aluminum fishing boat. One presumes the occupants were rescued, but I am always amazed at the very small boats that go out in rough conditions to fish.

We had a long run to Manitowoc, as we are leap-frogging the various towns to allow for interesting stops in both directions on the west side of Lake Michigan. We had strong winds and higher than anticipated waves, but fortunately on the stern. The air was very hazy from the fires in western USA and Canada, so much so that one could not see cloud formations building. On many afternoons the sun hangs in the sky as a red ball, long before sunset, because of the smoke in the air. Part way on the trip, our weather apps started predicting thunderstorms, so we speeded up to arrive before the rain.

Smoke haze reduces the afternoon sun to a red ball most days

We met other Loopers, one on the same T-Head as we were, and another an Endeavour sailboat a few slips down.

Manitowoc has similar history to most of this area, with the first Europeans being French fur traders, and subsequent settlement by immigrant groups from Europe and Canada. A local ship-building industry began in 1847, building schooners and clippers used for fishing and Great Lakes trade. During WW II the local industry turned to building landing craft, tankers, and particularly submarines for the war effort.

Dinner on our first evening was at a restaurant called Holla. It was an unassuming building, and very spartan inside, but the food was very good and with reasonable portions. I enjoyed the pizza from the wood fired oven, and we agreed that it was just about the best we have ever had (of course Dick needed to test it by trying a piece).

The next day we took an interesting Segway tour. The marina is sheltered from the lake by an island, most of which is now a bird sanctuary, but you can walk to the end and visit the harbour breakwater and lighthouse. This made for a very enjoyable start to our tour on the Segways. After the island we rode on Mariner’s Trail, a substantial 7-mile pathway along the shore of Lake Michigan north to the town of Two Rivers. Along the trail, various individuals and businesses have sponsored and keep up interesting gardens. One is a “human sundial”. Stones are set in the ground, and one stands on the appropriate month, casting a shadow on the outer ring of stones to tell the time. Dick dutifully posed as the gnomon. As well as some pretty flowerbeds, there is a large area of “prairie regeneration”, plantings of native wildflowers and plants. There are also interesting sculptures, the largest being a tribute to Native Americans near Two Rivers. At the end of our ride we were in time to see the famous SS Badger come into port.

Segway tour, Nine Lives in the background

Mariners Trail sundial, Dick is the gnomon and it’s 11am

SS Badger is a historic ferry, operating between Ludington, Michigan, and Manitowoc, Wisconsin. It is the last coal-fired passenger vessel operating on the Great Lakes, and is now a National Historic Landmark. It was constructed as a rail car ferry in 1952, with a reinforced hull for ice-breaking, so it could operate year-round. In 1990 Badger was retired and subsequently sold. In time it was purchased by a local entrepreneur and philanthropist, and was refitted to carry passengers and vehicles. Today it operates daily from May through October. Some say that a trip on SS Badger should be on everybody’s bucket list. Dick and I have been there and done that, and probably would not go quite that far! Perhaps if our trip in 2016 had been on a warmer day in less rough conditions we might feel differently. It also occurs to me that a ship that was built in 1952 is only a little older than I am, so perhaps I should be designated a National Historic something-or-other as well!

SS Badger, historic as it may be, cannot be considered to be environmentally friendly. The engines burn 50 tons of coal a day, and produce 4 tons of coal ash. Responding to concerns from the EPA, and after some negotiations, the engines have been made more efficient, and the coal ash is now stored and offloaded rather than being dumped into Lake Michigan each trip. The coal ash is used in the production of cement.

There was time before lunch to visit the Wisconsin Maritime Museum. It is an interesting museum, with displays of local history, many ship models, and a few beautiful old wooden boats.

Wisconsin Maritime Museum wooden boat display

The Manitowoc Shipbuilding Company was a major shipbuilder of the Great Lakes, building mainly steel ferries and ore carriers. In 1939, the company president contacted the US Government and offered to build destroyers. After consideration, the Navy suggested that they build submarines instead, and a contract for the first 10 was awarded in 1940. Although they had never built a submarine before, the final total of 29 submarines were delivered before the contracted completion date of the first 10. Although she was not one of the Manitowoc submarines, USS Cobia, after distinguished service in the Pacific and subsequent use as a training vessel and reservist, now forms the basis for the Maritime Museum.

A highlight for Dick was touring USS Cobia. (We decided that given my recent issues with walking, it would be unwise for me to tackle all the stairs plus twist through the small hatches in the sub). One of the pictures he took is of the toilet. I am sure you are wondering why I am giving that photograph such prominence, but Dick tells me that flushing this toilet required 14 separate action steps! By comparison, our guests on Nine Lives are intimidated by the simple requirement to press one button and hold it for a count of 5 seconds!

We walked to the Courthouse Pub for a late lunch, trying traditionally battered and fried cheese curds for the first time (it won’t be the last). The town has some lovely old buildings, but like many American cities it is very spread out. The courthouse itself is a beautiful old building, with a completely hideous white painted metal fire escape on the front, destroying the symmetry and showing a complete absence of respect for the historic building.

I have to tell you that I have been rather non-plussed to have been called “old” twice in one week. The first occasion was as we were slowly making our way to a restaurant, when a fellow sitting on the waterfront greeted Dick and asked how he was doing. Dick replied, “I’m great, but she is not doing quite so good”, gesturing at me behind him. The fellow then asked my greybeard husband, “Is that your mother?” Of course, I was a few paces behind Dick, and I am sure all the man could see was my cane and possibly some grey hair blowing. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it! The next occasion was on arrival in a restaurant a little early, and being directed to the bar to wait for our table. As I eyed the rather tall bar stools, and planned how I would climb up, the very nice hostess asked Dick, “Would she be better on one of those chairs over there?” Asking the companion as though the individual is incapable of understanding or deciding for themselves is is what people do with extremely old ladies! It was, of course, well meant, but I surely did feel old and decrepit.

Our next stop was Kewaunee, mainly chosen because it would have been a very long journey to our next destination. This is very much a working town, but as with most of what we have seen in Wisconsin, clean and well cared for. The town is a centre for fishing, with the local catch including Chinook and Coho salmon, rainbow trout, walleye, and smelt. The county is a centre for the dairy and cheese making industries, with more cows than people.

Our marina was tightly packed with fishing boats, but Dick’s brilliant manoeuvring got us into our shared slip without making marks on our neighbour. We ate on board, but took a walk into town to visit a cheese shop. Waaker Cheese is a small batch cheese-making operation that specializes in gouda, made from recipes brought from Holland by Johannes Waaker, who emigrated to Wisconsin in 1988. The operation is still family run, with Johannes and his wife Olga having been joined in the business by their daughter and her husband. Apparently, some of the ingredients even today are sourced from the Netherlands. We tried some onion and paprika flavoured gouda, which is delicious, and we are looking forward to trying the chipotle flavour next. The town also has a smoked and fresh fish shop. Dick bought some haddock, now frozen for a future dinner on board, and also some lemon and pepper smoked salmon. I generally do not care for smoked fish that is not thinly sliced, but when we set this out later for docktails we discovered that it is beyond delicious. We are happy that we will be stopping in Kewaunee again on our return, and will certainly get some more smoked fish, perhaps even some to freeze.

Sturgeon Bay is a town in the middle of the Door County peninsula. The town joins a deep bay from the western end with the Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal, that allows shipping to get into Lake Michigan without having to pass through the notoriously weather prone and often dangerous straits at the northern end of the County. This includes the disturbingly named Death’s Door Strait. We are not planning to travel over the top of the peninsula! The canal entrance from the Lake Michigan side is marked by a very bright red lighthouse. After 1.3 miles the canal opens out into a long narrow lake, with the town of Sturgeon Bay in the centre. There are marinas on both sides of the lake, and the town is clearly a mecca for recreational boaters. Not too long after we were tied up, we saw another Looper arrive, in a PDQ trawlercat. We left a card and were able to meet the next day.

Entrance to Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal with historic lighthouses

While Sturgeon Bay is very much a tourist town with quite a few restaurants, the staffing shortages we are seeing everywhere has had the effect of reducing the number of days that fine dining restaurants are open, so our choices are somewhat limited. The first evening we walked across the river to an Irish Pub, Kitty O’Reillys. On arrival we were told we had a wait of 50 minutes, but there was an outside bar area we could wait. Wine and beer in plastic cups. I asked about inside seating, but was told that due to staff shortages they were only seating outside. The enclosure for the restaurant was both cleverly constructed and very pretty with hanging plants. Dick loves traditional Irish food, whereas I prefer to make those specialties that I also like at home. Fortunately and unusually, this restaurant had quite a few non-Irish choices. We shared an interesting starter of lobster rolls, a chopped lobster filling inside a deep-fried egg roll. I tried one of the hamburgers. It was delicious, but so huge that there was no possibility of eating it normally, so it had to be deconstructed and eaten with a knife and fork. Dick liked his corned beef and cabbage.

Passing the Coastguard Station on the waterfront, it was interesting to see the stacks of ATONs. These are floating buoys, set in place as aids to navigation of US waters. Most common are the green ones that are shaped rather like a floating oil drum, round, with a flat top. These are called cans. The red ones are also round, but with a pointed top, and are descriptively called nuns. (a little nautical trivia for you).

The next day we wandered around the town, visiting some of the upmarket tourist shops. We enjoyed the pretty gardens, and some fascinating tree stump sculptures. Dick rode his bike to the local West Marine to get an electrical fitting, while I did the laundry. In the evening we hosted docktails for 6 Looper guests. The other 3 couples are all about to start their Loop this fall, so it is possible we will see them again in September when we are all in the rivers. It is quite interesting how many “about to start” Loopers we are meeting on this side of the Lake. The group was happy to be joining their “first real Looper docktails”. I hope we set the right tone! Even though it is tradition, we asked the guests not to bring food on this occasion, and we set out a platter of some of the delicious treats we have been collecting along the way. After docktails we walked out for a late Italian dinner at Trattoria Dal Santo. Good food, and unfortunately we won’t be able to enjoy it again when we return to Sturgeon Bay as they won’t be open.

tree stump sculpture, an owl sits on a cello

another interesting tree stump sculpture, a lighthouse

It was a short trip the next morning to our planned anchorage in Little Sturgeon Bay. It was very windy, with some rain in the night, but our anchor held firm. After consulting a U-Tube video, Dick spent time installing the replacement electrical fitting on our power cord. Anchoring allows us to use the grill (usually forbidden in marinas), and Dick prepared some of the Berkshire pork chops from our initial meat order. The next morning was a good opportunity for a big breakfast. Chef Dick makes an excellent bacon, eggs, and fried potatoes breakfast.

Electrical repairs while we anchor in Little Sturgeon Bay

Berkshire pork chops and baked potatoes on the grill

Anchor up, and we set off towards the city of Green Bay. The winds were quite high, and the fetch of at least 20 miles meant the waves were also higher than expected. We started to run fast to compensate, and all was well until the starboard engine started making a roaring noise and the temperature dial climbed. Dick shut it down immediately, and we had to proceed on just one engine. A short investigation, as much as was possible with a hot engine, showed no obvious immediate fix. I asked tentatively if we could go faster with the one engine, to be told certainly not. About an hour later, the third cup of coffee stimulated the engineer’s mind, and he realized there was no reason not to attempt to get up to at least hull speed. That improved our speed by 30%, and (important from my perspective) smoothed out the rock and roll considerably. It also gave us a better chance of missing the thunderstorms that were heading in our direction.

Docking turned out to be impossible in the wind with one engine, in spite of 5 eager dockhands to help. After briefly starting the starboard engine, we got into the fuel dock for a pumpout, and then some of the young ladies ran around to catch our lines at our slip.

Now, I’m just sayin’… When we first took over Nine Lives, she had another name. We did a proper ceremony with lots of friends, calling on the gods of wind and waves to forget the old name, and introducing them to the rechristened Nine Lives. It is bad luck to mention the name that the gods have been asked to forget. At docktails the other night, in spite of my trying several times to stop him, Dick insisted on telling the other Loopers the former name. (Cue spooky music of your choice). Now two days later we lost an engine… I call that unlucky.

Dick was able to get a tech on board, the good news is that it appears to be the water pump that failed, a relatively minor fix once parts are obtained. The tech had hoped to confirm that the next morning, but, as everywhere, staff are short, and there were too many other jobs ahead of us. Our plans are to stay until Tuesday morning anyway, so we can only hope that it will be possible to get the repair done on Monday. If it had been the port engine, there is a good chance that Dick would have been able to make the repairs himself, but because the water pump is on the side of the starboard engine that is up against the wall, one has to work by touch only, and without the intimate knowledge that a trained marine tech has, there is no way to do the work blind.

Green Bay is a city at the southern end of Green Bay, a long bay on the west side of Lake Michigan, separated by the Door County peninsula, a popular tourist destination. I am not really a fan of cities, but Dick is, so we visit them. Can’t honestly say that Green Bay is on anyone’s top ten tourist destinations, even for those who have heard of it! The Green Bay Packers are of interest to sports fans (but I have had to check google to see that they are a football team, competing in the National Football League). Aside from that, initial impressions are of a tidy downtown with an improved waterfront on the Fox River. Our marina is located in a heavily industrial area at the mouth of the river, so the choice is either a 3+ mile bike ride, or launch the dinghy and use the convenient docking facilities downtown.

A small trading post was established by French fur traders in 1634. It was originally called La Baie des Puants, which translates as the Bay of Stinking Waters. I can tell you that as we passed the largest of the several rookeries, the smell of guano leaves no doubt of the accuracy of the early name. Over time the name gradually changed to Green Bay, due to the presence of algae that colours the waters a bright green, especially in the spring. Over time, and especially with the arrival of the railroads and the opening up of Great Lakes shipping, the city continued to grow as an important international trading port. It is a major centre for the paper industry, sometimes called “The toilet paper capital of the world”. Wikipedia duly informs me that Northern Paper Company (now part of Georgia Pacific) offered the first splinter-free toilet paper in the early 1930’s. (gosh).

Minnie duly launched, and all dressed up for our fine dining outing, we set off down the Fox River. We were happily tootling along, when suddenly the outboard engine cut out. (more of that spooky music please). I felt a certain amount of panic, sitting in our tippy dinghy in the middle of a shipping channel, but the engineer calmly tried various press this and squeeze that. He then took the top off the outboard (rather as men always look under the hood/bonnet when a car isn’t working), shook his head, put it back on, pressed the starter again and the motor came to life and settled down to a gentle purr. It’s not that I am afraid we would drown, we always wear life jackets, are close to shore, and carry a handheld radio. I just don’t want to be toppled into the water under any circumstances!

Our destination was a very new restaurant (open only since May) called Slander. The menu is interesting, with a lot of creative offerings divided into sections under small, medium, and large plates. The waitress explained that it is expected that all the dishes could be shared (rather like tapas). Very trendy of course, but Dick and I are both getting somewhat tired of having to choose a dish that would not necessarily be the first choice for either of us, just so we can share. As it happened the lobster fried rice appealed to us both as a starter. It was tasty, with some interesting flavours, but the overly mushy rice was a bit disappointing. Instead of sharing for the main course, we each had our own choice. Dick went for the duck, which he enjoyed very much, and I ordered a smoked burrata salad. My salad was delicious, with a variety of very fresh lettuces and tomatoes, and a generous amount of torn, lightly smoked burrata cheese. This was set on an amazing smoked basil aioli, and topped with balsamic pearls. These are tiny balls with balsamic vinegar, a wonderful alternative to the usual drizzle. We will most certainly be combing the specialty shops to see if we can find some to take home.

After the excellent meal we returned to the dinghy, and as it was well into dusk, we were glad to find that the lights worked. Mid-trip, we experienced the same disturbing engine failure, this time while we were sitting right in the middle of an open railway bridge. So, in addition to wondering whether we would get the motor to start again, we also hoped the (always automated) railway bridge didn’t need to close for a train while we were stuck in the channel! After a certain amount of muttering and button pressing, the motor duly started up again and we returned to the marina without further incident. The sunset was beautiful. Even though it is an industrial area, with huge piles of coal, gravel, and sand on the shoreline, at dusk it is still pretty magical. This area is also a mecca for wildlife. We have been seeing a lot of white pelicans in the last few days, and there are several rookeries at the mouth of the Fox River and just outside in the bay. We also saw deer, as well as the usual ducks, geese, and cormorants. I am sure I can hear osprey as well.

even an industrial area is beautiful at sunset

The next day rained all afternoon and evening. Dick had a chance to get on his bike in the morning to do grocery shopping. He brought out his new cart (trolley), a clever folding contraption with two wheels. It hooks to the back of the bicycle, and has the advantage that it can carry heavy weight without affecting the balance of the bike. Capacity is not much more than Dick’s usual complement of saddle bags, but being able to transport large jugs of water, many beers, and other adult beverages, is a great advantage.

With the heavy rain all afternoon, there was no chance to look at the dinghy motor. The forecast had the rain continuing all evening, so our plan to dinghy into town again had to be scrapped. Dick weighed up the choices of missing the fine dining restaurant that was booked, or letting go of his absolute rule that we do not take taxis to dinner. Fortunately, the alluring menu heavily influenced his decision, and we had just about the best meal this summer.

Chefusion offers fine dining meals from an extensive and wonderfully creative menu. There are two multi-course prix fixe options, or one can order a la carte. After we made our choices and ordered, we were delighted to be presented with a delicious bread basket with three spreads, and a little amuse bouche. It was a tiny piece of rare beef with mustard grains, a heavenly bite! For first courses I had another burrata salad, this one with the burrata served on top of a grilled half avocado. Dick chose matso ball soup. The excellent experience continued with a palate cleanser of strawberry lemon sorbet. For main dishes, Dick loved his rack of lamb, and I had some of the best mac and cheese this side of the Atlantic, accompanied by lobster claws. My dessert was a wonderful amalgam of mascarpone cheesecake with a brulee topping and strawberries, while Dick was in heaven with a bread pudding.

Chefusion mac and cheese with lobster claws

After we returned to Nine Lives, the rain and thunderstorms picked up in earnest, lasting all night and resulting in flash flood warnings for the area. The dinghy was still tied to the dock, waiting for attention from Dick and to be transportation to the next dinner. It filled with water, sitting very low, but did not sink. Dick took a bucket out in the morning, and bailed at least 100 gallons of water before we could put it back on the hoist and open the drain plug to get the last of the water out. Further investigation will be required, to ensure that the water has not damaged the battery, and also to see if it can be determined why the motor stopped during our evening outing.

I am writing this on what we hope will be our last day in Green Bay, as we wait for the tech to arrive to fix the engine. We have had a very lucky break. Another Looper boat arrived the other day, and in conversation yesterday, Dick discovered that not only do they have the same engine as us, they even had a spare water pump on board. They are leaving their boat here for a week while they visit friends, so Dick has made a sort of exchange, and will use their water pump while ordering a replacement that will be waiting for them when they return.

We enjoyed a very convivial evening of docktails with Karen and Bob last night. They are from New Zealand. After buying their boat in Louisiana in 2018, they have been doing the Loop on a multi-year basis, returning to New Zealand periodically. They expect to “cross their wake”, that is, complete their Loop, this autumn, and will then plan to sell the boat. They are great travellers like us, and we really enjoyed their company and hearing their stories.

The weather has been a combination of extremely high humidity and very heavy thunderstorms during our whole visit. Dick hopes to take care of the dinghy between raindrops, but we have already booked another taxi to take us to the restaurant this evening.

July 7 to 23, Muskegon to Winthrop Harbor

Our pizza evening on our last night in Muskegon was a mixed success. We walked over to the highly recommended pizza place just outside the marina, to discover that it was take-out only. There were a couple of rickety metal tables outside on the sloping pavement. After quite a long wait, as they were very busy, we opened the box on the tiny table and enjoyed some of the best pizza ever. This reminded us just why we stayed home last summer, sitting outside on wobbly furniture, on a busy street in a chilly breeze, trying to eat pizza with plastic cutlery (impossible).

Our voyage from Muskegon to Grand Haven was most unpleasant. The waves were 3 ft instead of the 1 ft that was forecast, and they were on the quarter instead of the stern, making Nine Lives yaw (corkscrew motion), I will stop before making my readers feel as queasy as I did…

Grand Isle Marina was another Safe Harbor Marina. A huge marina with great facilities, aimed squarely at seasonal slip holders, with no dockhands to help, nor is the radio monitored. It is quite difficult to hold a phone conversation when on a boat underway, the engine noise means it has to be me calling, and I have to stand at the front of the boat. Since Dick makes the reservations, I never quite know what has been said or agreed to, and the offices are seldom manned by anyone who has a clue about slip arrangements for transient boaters.

Grand Haven is a relatively small city on the outskirts of the Grand Rapids Metropolitan Area. A fur trade settlement by French colonial settlers began European occupation. The area began to grow after the War of 1812, with a large tannery, several churches, and banks. The usual mix of lumber, shipping, and ship building contributed to growth during the 19^th century. A piano factory was an important employer in the town for much of the 20^th century. Today, Grand Haven is a tourist destination for boating and fishing, as well as stunning local beaches, and there is also a Great Lakes Port importing limestone, slag, cement and coal, and exporting sand.

Swallows nest in the precarious sand piles

On our first evening we walked to a nearby highly rated restaurant. On the outskirts of Grand Haven, we could have been anywhere from Seattle to Alabama. It was all chain restaurants and auto parts stores along a noisy highway. Very useful for cities to put this away from downtown, with easy access from the main highways, but there is an awful sameness about it all. I can well understand why our friends who are making long road trips don’t bother to take the slower routes or stop at anything other than chain hotels off the interstate. When they do venture off the highway, they see nothing to suggest that a place is worth exploring and a longer stay. The meal we had was acceptable, but by no means memorable.

The next morning, we rode our bikes to a breakfast place (very noisy, and the weirdest tasting pancakes I have ever eaten) and explored the town. This was certainly much nicer than the outskirts, but very spread out with several different neighbourhoods of small shops and restaurants. Downtown proper was bustling, with lots of people sitting outside on sidewalks. The river waterfront area has a musical fountain that plays after dark. Sadly, 10pm just seemed too late to ride the bikes quite a long distance on an unlit path. Instead, we sat watching the boats and dinghies in the marina until sunset.

Creative use of broken crockery at the breakfast restaurant

We made an early start for the trip to Holland, as we planned to anchor and wanted to have enough time to get the dinghy off and go into town for the afternoon. It was a calm and very easy journey, and we anchored with no problem in Pine Creek Bay, off Lake Macatawa. Our dinghy trip to Holland was rather more exciting than one might wish, with a lot of wakes from big boats and wake boarders. We are looking forward to the new RIB dinghy later this summer, which should be more stable in chop.

Holland was founded in the mid-19^th century by Dutch Calvinist separatists, who emigrated from bad economic conditions in the Netherlands. The story is that the newly arrived Dutch did not get on with the natives, apparently stealing sugar and venison from them, and eventually forcing them to leave the area. Dr. Albertus Van Raalte, the founder of the city, was a spiritual leader, as well as overseeing political, educational and financial matters. I was interested to read that as a group seeking religious freedom, the settlers were not at all tolerant of other points of view. The Reformed Church of America was founded by Van Raalte, and the city became a centre for several reformed church congregations as well as Hope College and Western Theological Seminary. Holland is called “The City of Churches”, with 170 in the general area, many of them associated with the Reformed Church.

Nearly 30% of the residents of Holland associate themselves with Dutch descent, and Dick noticed many businesses and even street names that were clearly of Dutch origin. Today it is a considerably kinder and more welcoming city, with tourism being an important part of the economy. The attractive downtown is listed in The National Register of Historic Places. A Tulip Festival brings visitors from all over, with 6 million tulips planted throughout the city. Heinz opened the largest pickle factory in the world in 1897, and it processes over 1 million pounds of pickles a day during the season.

Former furniture manufacturer in Holland, note the stylized tulip sculptures on the lawn

After tying the dinghy up at a conveniently provided dock at Boatwerks, a waterfront restaurant, we walked into town. The farmer’s market was just finishing, so there was very little on offer, but Dick bought a pint of blueberries. Holland is very attractive, with a real European feel and lots of interesting shops and restaurants. After exploring the town, we returned to Boatwerks for an excellent meal. Sadly, all the tables for 2 outside were set at the edge of the canopy (no tables available inside), so we were sitting in the hot sun. Even Dick found it just too hot to linger.

We returned to Nine Lives, and I set an anchor alarm on my phone. This is a useful app that I have used for all our previous voyages, because the alarm setting on our chart plotter doesn’t work in any practical way. In the middle of a short nap (it had been an eventful day with an early start), I was woken by a very loud siren from my phone. Google is always my friend, and I discovered that recent versions of Android have a new “feature” intended to conserve battery power. This feature automatically stops GPS tracking on all apps that are not active on the screen. In other words, unless you put the app up on the screen, disable the screen lock, and of course plug in the phone, any app that uses GPS will not work. Or, as in the case of my anchor alarm, will alert you with a loud siren to warn you that the GPS is off. This feature is not optional and cannot be stopped or adjusted for any or all apps. So far, I am told that Apple has not included this so-called feature in its operating systems, so I was able to use a different anchor alarm on the iPad instead.

We enjoyed a very quiet Sunday at anchor. Dick made breakfast (bacon and eggs, hash browns, mushrooms, toast, and coffee) on board, and in the evening he grilled some of our wonderful steaks that are waiting in the freezer for anchor evenings. There was a small craft warning, and threatening skies, so the pontoon boats with party groups and swimmers, and most of the wake boarders, must have decided to stay home, even though the bay we were in was very calm. We watched a few fishermen, as well as swans and of course rafts of ducks and geese, and generally enjoyed a peaceful day.

Pulling up the anchor the next morning went smoothly. Altogether, our first anchoring since September 2019 went very well!

Breakwater and lighthouses outside Lake Macatawa and Holland

A dredge immediately outside the channel made the exit a little challenging

We had calm seas for the trip to Saugatuck. There was a little mizzle at first, but it cleared up. On arrival at the marina there was much confusion. No response to radio (as is unfortunately common these days), and a lady at the end of the phone who kept asking me what was our slip assignment. Since I was calling to ask what was our slip assignment, this made for a frustrating conversation on both sides. Eventually the person who Dick has been dealing with was tracked down, and we were told our slip, and set off down the fairway, only to see that our space was already occupied. More phone conversations, and we were finally sent to the far end of the marina on a temporary basis for one night. This end of the marina was a strange but potentially charming little enclave. There was a large B&B boat (apparently unoccupied), and several brand-new houseboats, incomplete and unfurnished. Apparently, they are being staged in that location while wrangling over their final location on the river in Saugatuck goes on. At the end of the dock is a real dive bar, that advertises the loudest live music in the area. I gather it is very popular, but operated in an eccentric manner, open only when the management feels like it and with no predictable hours or days (except always closing at sunset), we were very thankful that this was one of the closed days!

We were expecting Saugatuck to be one of the highlights of this trip, and it did not disappoint. Initially a centre for lumber and a port, Saugatuck became an art colony and cultural centre in the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries. Lovely old homes line the streets, many sympathetically converted into art galleries and restaurants. Beautiful beaches in the area add to the attraction. There is an interesting hand cranked historic chain ferry that crosses the river to connect visitors to the town with the beaches and parks. The Kalamazoo River leads from Lake Michigan to Saugatuck and its sister city of Douglas. The river opens out into a smallish lake that is lined with marinas and waterfront condos. Douglas was initially called Dudleyville, settled in 1851 as a lumber mill town. The town provided much of the lumber used to rebuild Chicago after the Great Fire in 1871. Once most of the trees had been cleared, the area became a centre for growing and shipping fruit, particularly peaches.

Hand cranked historic chain ferry in Saugatuck

There were no available transient slips in Saugatuck, so our marina was across the lake in Douglas. We had planned to ride our bikes to Saugatuck for dinner, so we got ready and wrestled the bikes off the boat. At this point we discovered that my rear tire was completely flat. Further investigation clearly showed that there was a problem that could not be solved with a bicycle pump. Since Google told us it was just 1.8 miles to the restaurant, and my weather app said clouds and a pleasant 72 temperature, we decided to walk. Naturally, the sun came out, there was not a breath of breeze, and it was a lot closer to 80. I was fine with the 1 mile, it was the .8 in the hot sun that was miserable! The restaurant was another one with good food served in a very crowded and noisy setting. Certainly not worth the long, hot walk.

Dinghy sailing lessons in the lake at Saugatuck

We were able to order a new inner tube for the bike, to be delivered to the marina in just two days. We have had several urgent orders this year. Our AGLCA burgee, critical for making new friends on the docks, had become so frayed that it was about to fall apart. Our Eartec headsets (aka marriage savers) that are very important aids for docking, had the plastic on the ear pieces flaking off. One of my only pair of sandals decided to shed its sole, and the ink cartridges in the printer ran out. Fortunately, between our friends in Whitehall, and those in Chicago, we were able to place online orders for these important items. Funny that we have been travelling for 3 years and never needed to order anything. I guess everything wears out, and the gap year allowed things to deteriorate.

The next day we took the dinghy into town. There is an excellent dinghy dock at a park right in the centre, very convenient, and of course much cooler than trying to walk (or even ride the bikes). As we walked around town, we enjoyed seeing the most amazing old cars. They were part of a car club, really old, in stunning condition, and more than I have ever seen outside of a museum. My father would have been in his element, chatting with the owners and reminiscing. I couldn’t help but think about how much Dad would have enjoyed this trip we are taking!

Dick considers his next car, a Ford perhaps?

Another lovely old car making a turn. Note that the passenger is using a hand signal out of the window for the turn!

We enjoyed more of the shops in Saugatuck (some wonderful art galleries particularly), and went to a restaurant on the waterfront for dinner. On this occasion we decided to sit outside, in hopes that it might be a little quieter. While we were waiting for our order, a lady came out and stood at the railing. It seemed as though she was taking pictures, very strange because it was a foggy, drizzly day and nothing much to see (or photograph). In fact, she was trying to get a signal for an important phone call. Eventually the lady turned around, and (in her words), was about to stop at our table and tell me that she knows someone who looks just like me. Then she looked at Dick, and realized that I am who she was thinking of! Leslie is a neighbour from Wexford, and we were all very surprised at the chance meeting. No wonder there are so few people in our neighbourhood in summer, they all head north!

The next day was a quiet morning for errands (Dick) and laundry (me), and then a return to Saugatuck in the dinghy. We explored the remaining shops and enjoyed a very nice meal at Coast236. Finally, a quiet dining experience with good food, although a very limited menu.

I enjoyed the salmon with mushrooms at Coast236

On Thursday we walked to J.Petter Galleries, an art gallery and wine shop just off the bridge between Saugatuck and Douglas. They offer wine tastings, and a very pleasant selection of accompaniments. We shared a wonderful cheese and charcuterie plate with tastings, and returned to the boat with 3 bottles of a delicious white wine from Navarre and some more yummies to enjoy on board. A new boat had joined us on our T-head, another catamaran, this time a sailing cat. We paused for some dockside chat.

Charcuterie and wine tasting at J. Petter Galleries

Friday was a quiet day. Dick walked over to what he thought was a museum, but wasn’t, and took the time to repair my bike. This involved some critical bike repair tools that he found in the cutlery drawer, but the repair was successful and I am once again mobile.

Dick fixes my tire, note the spoon from the cutlery drawer I mean critical bike repair tool.

In the evening we again took the dinghy across, this time to a steak house called Bowdies. After Dick overheard the bartender say he was moving to Hilton Head in the fall, he mentioned to our charming waiter that we live there. The bartender came over and introduced himself. He is in fact the restaurant owner, and is opening his 4^th Bowdies very near to Wexford in October. The steaks were absolutely delicious, and we are looking forward to the opening in the autumn. As restaurants go, it is very pricey indeed, with everything ordered separately (in other words, you order your steak and it comes with no sauces, vegetables, or starch), so I expect it will be a special occasion destination!

On our return to the marina, we had, ahem, fun, putting up the dinghy. It is always a tricky job, because of the weight and design of the dinghy and supports, and several glasses of wine do not make it easier! The boaters on the other side of the dock had returned to their boat for the weekend, very friendly people, who are planning to do the Great Loop soon. We sat with them and enjoyed further adult beverages while chatting with them and other boat neighbours until 11:30! Whoa! Very late hours for Loopers.

The next day was another horrible corkscrewing passage to St Joseph for me, even though both wind and waves were acceptable speed and heights. I now realize that when a fellow Looper refers to Lake Michigan as Lake Washing Machine, he is not necessarily referring to stormy conditions. Instead, it is the rolling corkscrew that is so much more common than the easy chop we were used to on the other Great Lakes.

Initially a trading post, St Joseph lies near the southern end of Lake Michigan, and is a convenient location for crossing to Chicago. The convenience was recognized during the early years of the city, as a number of shipping companies and routes provided transportation, freight, and mail between the cities. In 1911, three brothers, Emory, Lewis, and Frederick Upton, began a company manufacturing household washing machines. By the 1950’s the company became Whirlpool, and is still the world’s largest manufacturer of household appliances, with its world headquarters in Benton Harbor, across the river from St Joseph. Some of Whirlpool’s many brands include Maytag, Jenn-Air, KitchenAid, Amana, Hot Point, and Indesit. Our route by bicycle to St Joseph shops and restaurants took us through the enormous (deserted over the weekend) parking lot of the Whirlpool Headquarters building.

Taking bikes over lift bridges is never fun or safe!

Downtown St Joseph. The brick streets look charming but are not bike friendly!

St Joseph is quite a large city, and once again the marina was across the river, requiring a long and quite unpleasant (and unsafe) bike ride to the town and restaurants. The St Joseph waterfront has a beautiful park, and the town is at the top of a bluff, so taking the dinghy instead of the bikes would still have involved a lot of walking. Dinner in a highly rated hotel restaurant was good, but staff shortages meant that our poor waitress was trying to look after far too many tables. We like a leisurely dinner, but more than two and a half hours is too long even for us.

Pink chocolate cheesecake for dessert in St Joseph

Leaving St Joseph behind a dinghy sailing school

We enjoyed a very easy crossing to Chicago, running fast for about 2/3 of the distance. On this stop we stayed in Burnham Harbor, a 1000 slip marina located beside Soldier Field, The Shedd Aquarium, and the Planetarium. We had our slip assignment (a T-head), but as usual no docking assistance. We are now at the point where we prefer to handle the docking ourselves, and were reminded of that when we were “helped” at the fuel dock on our way out. The helpful young man grabbed the bow line, and prepared to try to haul Nine Lives in with that. Leaving aside the fact that 12 tons of boat is a lot for even a strong young man to haul about safely, pulling us in by a bow line results in the stern going out away from the dock to the point where even a good throw of the stern line won’t reach. Of course, getting no docking help means no tip is required, a small saving, but it all adds up! It is especially annoying to tip a dockhand who has made our arrival more difficult that it would have been without the well-meant but useless assistance.

This marina was the worst so far, with just 2 showers for the entire marina, and no other facilities. Of course, being downtown in a major city, it was also the most expensive!

Our location on the t-head next to the fuel dock made for interesting watching. It soon becomes obvious that having a lot of money does not necessarily mean that a boater has any actual boat handling skills, and the dock hands spend a lot of time grabbing tangled lines, jumping over errant fenders, and pushing and pulling just to get some of these big yachts set for fuelling. I watched a Chicago Police boat decide on a stop and search. They tied their big RIB to a yacht that was fuelling, and after taking the owner’s keys, they sent down a diver to look at something. Of course, from the position of an observer, the story is all speculation, and one never really knows the whys or wherefores, or the eventual outcome! I also watched the set up for some sort of filming across the harbour. There was a big green screen set up, and all sorts of people bustling about, moving equipment in and out and stringing wires everywhere. Actors (?) in white shirts and ties stood about looking at large dark cars. I didn’t see the actual filming, but the setting up took hours, and then suddenly everyone was gone and there was no trace they had even been there.

We visited the Shedd Aquarium. Normally we love aquariums, but this was not quite the experience we had hoped for. With COVID, there are still only advance timed tickets, and I (wrongly) thought this would mean fewer people. Instead, it was horribly crowded, and being summer, there were also large numbers of children jumping about, banging on the glass, and generally being a nuisance. Worst, the rules are now that for indoor venues, if you don’t wear a mask you are certifying that you are fully vaccinated. Given that the US has roughly 50% of the population vaccinated, that would suggest that in any given venue, about half the visitors should be wearing masks. If it was 10% I would be surprised. I found it quite disturbing, and wished I had tucked my own mask into my pocket, with all these potentially infected people crowding around me. Yes, we are vaccinated, but there are still breakthrough infections, and I don’t want it, no matter how “mild” the symptoms might be! We never found the underwater viewing places for the belugas, and we decided that any of the other shows would be even more crowded than the exhibits, so we didn’t stay as long as we might have done.

What can I tell you about Chicago? It is the third largest city in the United States (by population), and one of the 40 largest urban areas in the world. The location of the city, incorporated in 1837, was close to the portage that connected Lake Michigan (and thus, via the Great Lakes and the St Lawrence River with the Atlantic Ocean) with the Mississippi watershed and the Gulf of Mexico. In 1848 the Illinois and Michigan Canal opened, connecting the two watersheds. One of the destination cities of North America, Chicago is a centre for food, culture, architecture and history, and of course, shopping. As we have been finding with many American cities, the waterfront has been beautifully redeveloped, with parks connected by bike paths and pedestrian trails.

We enjoyed a wonderful evening with Thor and Jim, friends from Wexford, who have a stunning condo overlooking the waterfront and Lincoln Park. We had dinner with them at a French Vietnamese restaurant that is one of their favourites.

The next day was our turn to entertain. Dick spent hours with the water hose and boat soap, and also window cleaners, so Nine Lives sparkled. I prepared cottage pie with some ground bison meat we had found in one of the specialty shops on our travels, and made some chocolate mousse with plenty of grand marnier for dessert. We loved having our friends on board.

While Dick was boat cleaning, I had an interesting phone conversation. I answered Dick’s phone for him, it was a nice lady to say that he had left a message about a reservation, but she was calling to advise that they don’t take reservations, it is first come first served. I explained to her that we understand some places do this, but we are a catamaran, and 19 feet wide, so usually we are able to talk to the dockmaster and he will hold a slip for us. The nice lady heard me out, there was a pause, and then she explained that they are a restaurant.

Fireworks over the harbour on our last evening in Chicago

Our passage from Chicago to Winthrop Harbor was done fast. The water was very smooth, and if it had been the ocean it would have been perfect, but there was a very long fetch from the top of the Lake, and a short period (to explain to the non-mariners among us, the fetch means that waves start at the north end, and have the whole length of the lake to build up. The period means that unlike the ocean where the distance between the tops of the waves is longer, here it is short, and boats bob up and down much sooner). This made for what would have been an awful trip for me. Dick was good to his wife and we ran fast, thus shortening the passage by hours.

We had made reservations and been assigned a slip in Winthrop Harbor, but on our arrival, we discovered that our place was already occupied. We tied up at the next slip over, and eventually managed to get an answer from the marina to say they were sorry, someone had bought that slip for the season, and if we were happy where we were, we could stay there. So followed all the palaver of spring lines, careful and judicious tying of bow lines, and placement of fenders here and there, and the last job is to connect the power. That was when we found that the elderly pedestal did not have an outlet that was suitable for our boat. More calls to the marina, and explained the situation, so we were sent to a different dock that we were assured would have the right power, and would be wide enough for a catamaran. After some exceptional manoeuvring on Dick’s part, he shoehorned Nine Lives into the assigned slip, and we began the tying up process. It was clear that our 44 ft, plus another 5 feet of dinghy, was not appropriate for a 35-foot pier, as we were sticking out and obstructing about half of the fairway. So, untie, more clever ducking and spinning of our fortunately very nimble cat, and we returned to the first spot with the plan to run the generator if necessary. Fortunately, the slips directly across from us do have the right power outlets, so we have run our (trip hazard) cable across the dock and are all set. Dick rode his bike to the handy local West Marine, and bought an adaptor for the next time (and there will be a next time for sure). We figure that since this exceptionally large marina of 1500 slips probably has many boats arriving with the same issue, the relatively small West Marine outlet keeps a good stock of what must be a big seller for them!

Winthrop Harbor is the location for the National Weather Service’s marine warnings for Lake Michigan. There doesn’t seem to be much else to tell, other than that the marina is the largest in the Great Lakes.

Winthrop Harbor has little to offer in terms of restaurants or shopping, so we are eating on board both nights of our stay. Today is our 44^th wedding anniversary, so I planned a nice supper, trying a new recipe for chicken pies, followed by some blueberry cake for dessert. There just happened to be a bottle of champagne on board as well. One of the local AGLCA Harbor Hosts arrived in time to join us for cocktails and dinner. A convivial evening with exchanged stories of visits to Europe and future boating plans. The new recipe for chicken pies is a keeper too!