restaurants – The Voyages of Nine Lives

April 17th to May 2nd, 2025: Jacksonville to Hilton Head

Our first full day in Jacksonville was enjoyable. Dick set off early to collect the rental car, while I made apple cake in anticipation of visitors. Fellow gold Loopers Debbie and Steve dropped by to visit Nine Lives and share the apple cake.

Later in the morning the local harbor host came over to see if there was anything we needed. I chatted with him, but Dick was tied up with the lighting project and didn’t realize we had a visitor. I finished and published the next installment of the blog while Dick replaced the fluorescent light fixture in his bathroom. This was another electrical project that required 3 hands and a certain amount of adult language to complete. The bathroom is now exceptionally well lit!

Our dinner in the evening was at a French bistro, Restaurant Orsay. It was an enormous place, and at first it looked as though we would be seated in a very crowded, noisy place with tiny tables and uncomfortable looking chairs. However, our hostess led us through a rather dark concrete tunnel-like corridor (where the heck are we going!) past the kitchen, and out into a pleasant, spacious, and quiet area. We were also delighted to be seated at one of the larger tables.

The meal was mostly very good. I started with a smoked trout dip, served with interesting cornmeal biscuits. Dick ordered escargots, that came in puff pastry with a lovely mushroom sauce. I tried lobster pot pie for my main dish. The lobster was absolutely delicious, perfectly cooked, not tough as it can be sometimes, in a delicate sauce. The dish fell short because of roasted vegetables that were well overcooked. It may be an easy option, but it really is time to get rid of the fashion for roasting vegetables! Too often it is an excuse for using up produce that is past its prime, although that was not the case on this occasion, they were just burnt. The biscuit that served as the “pie” was a tasty traditional southern style biscuit, but the flavour was too intense, and it overcame the delicate lobster and sauce. I ignored the biscuit and enjoyed the dish with French bread instead.

There were several favourite offerings for Dick to choose from, but he decided on cassoulet, which he enjoyed.

The restaurant has a dedicated pastry chef on staff, and it showed. So often a meal is let down by mass-produced or frozen desserts. Here, one could choose a small version of several of the dessert offerings, so we decided to share 3. Dick’s favourite was a beautiful fruit tart, while I loved the raspberry mousse. We both liked the éclair, unusually presented with key lime filling and glaze instead of chocolate. It was a wonderful finish to an excellent evening.

Friday was a busy and interesting day. Dick set off for groceries in the morning. Shortly after noon we drove to Catty Shack Ranch Wildlife Sanctuary. Their mission is to rescue large cats that have been seized by law enforcement or are made homeless by zoos or private collections closing down. They have expanded to include other animals, and now have 2 bears and some coatimundi.

We enjoyed the visit, even though, as expected, most of the cats were sleeping as they do through most of the day. It is possible to attend the night-time feeding, so we may consider a future visit for that. These animals have spent their lives in captivity, some of them in terrible conditions, so they are used to being in enclosures. There is plenty of stimulation, including giant plastic balls, that given their scratched condition, are popular for playtime! The owner and volunteers get around in golf carts, and we were amused to see that if a golf cart stopped near an enclosure, the fast asleep kitty would immediately get up and come over to the fence, in anticipation of a little snack.

Even when the animals are elderly or infirm, they are looked after and provided with special ramps in their enclosures to allow them to enjoy a peaceful old age.

Elderly and infirm animals are well looked after and allowed to live out their years in comfort

In the evening, we went to La Cena Ristorante, a well-regarded Italian eatery. It was an odd experience. Reservations are only taken by phone, and the owner stresses the first of many rules, no young children, and no strong personal scents. A sign also repeats these requirements at the door. The whole first page of the menu sets out more rules in great detail. The rules are basically a push-back on the increasingly common practice of diners sharing just one appetizer and entrée. You can share an appetizer, but if you share an entrée, the upcharge will be the same as if 2 entrees are ordered. The same if you order a second appetizer instead of an entrée, you will be charged an entrée price. The whole meal must be ordered all at the same time. We fully understand why a restaurant may wish to make these policies, but we did notice that on a Friday evening, the venue was less than half full.

The meal was delicious, and we followed the proper Italian custom of a second, small pasta course between the appetizer and the entrée. A salad was included, as was the most delicious bread. As we arrived early for our reservation, the whole restaurant smelled heavenly. The bread is baked inhouse. In response to our compliments, a whole loaf was given to us to take home, just as we were wondering whether we dared ask if we could order a loaf to go

Saturday turned out to be a quiet day. After Dick completed the grocery shopping at a supermarket he had forgotten to visit the day before, I walked the docks in the marina and issued some invitations for docktails the next day. After that, it was very hot and humid, so we decided we would not do the afternoon outing we had planned. Either the heat or something I ate disagreed with me, so we also cancelled our dinner reservation for the evening. Dick’s wallet was happy for the reprieve, but we were both sorry to miss the venue – a steakhouse in a historic former bank building in downtown Jacksonville.

On Sunday we went for a short drive through some very attractive neighbourhoods near downtown. The housing is all different styles and sizes, at a guess, most date from between the wars. We also drove across the bridge over the Ortega River and through another attractive suburb. Here, the houses on the shoreline are much larger, many of them with imposing gates, while the homes further inland are smaller as the cross-streets get farther from the waterfront.

Late afternoon, we hosted docktails. There were just 5 of us, as we were competing with a marina pot-luck gathering. George joined us, he is a solo Looper from Texas. We enjoyed meeting him and sharing stories. It was great to spend time again with Sandy and Frank, and afterwards we went for pizza together. Their boat has just sold, and they are moving to a larger one with plans to go through the Panama Canal and up the West Coast. It is good news that higher-priced boats are still selling, gives us hope that Nine Lives will soon find a buyer.

Leaving the marina the next morning, we had to wait a few minutes for the railway bridge downtown. Then, as we passed the highway bridge, a gentleman in a waterfront high-rise took pictures and posted them on Nebo, wishing us safe travels.

East of downtown, the Saint Johns River is an industrial port. We met a huge vehicle carrier making its way upstream. Further downriver was an even bigger one, maneuvering into dock with no less than 3 port police boats hovering to direct other boat traffic if needed. Our timing was good, and their docking was completed before we got there.

The next excitement was two Coast Guard boats practising something, tearing back and forth, apparently chasing each other. The one doing most of the chasing had a gun in the bow. I decided that it would be prudent to take my pictures from inside the cockpit, rather than going out on deck as I usually do.

Coast Guard boats practising in Jacksonville Port

We are certainly back in the “Low Country”, with a lot of shallows and the channel meandering back and forth. We have to pay close attention to both charts. We passed the railway bridge, and the very narrow channel to one of the marinas on Amelia Island. In 2017, we tried multiple times to get into that channel with zero success. Although dredged, it was V-shape rather than U-shape, and Nine Lives with her two well-spaced hulls simply did not fit. It was our first really tough setback on our maiden voyage to bring Nine Lives round to Hilton Head. We had to continue on, into the inlet, and up the St Mary’s River with a small craft warning and very difficult dockage at the end. We shuddered as we passed that channel, which looks no better today than it did in January 2017!

We docked without incident in downtown Fernandina Beach, one of our favourite towns. As we enjoyed our early evening cocktail, we noticed a young woman with a skateboard. The docks here are only secured at night, and as we have seen in other places, it is a common thing for people to walk around and look at the boats. This young lady had the kind of skateboard with a large ball or wheel in the middle. Research suggests that they are highly controversial and quite dangerous. She was clearly wobbly, still learning how to use the board, and we wondered whether she and her skateboard were about to enjoy an unplanned swim. Sadly, it was a lot more serious. She hit the cover that goes across the dock (ironically, it’s there so people don’t trip on boat power cords and hoses), and she came off at speed onto the concrete dock. A nearby boater with medical training helped and medics were called. It was a reminder that NO wheeled vehicles of any kind should be ridden on docks.

A barge moves a dredge in Fernandina Beach. We called this the wedding cake barge!

We enjoyed a lovely walk around the town the next day. We bought some nice things, paused for a refreshing beverage at the famous (or infamous) Palace Saloon, and then we ate lunch in the form of some excellent ice cream. After that, a nap was required.

Fernandina Beach downtown from the marina

In the evening, we walked down a road with beautiful old homes to David’s, a restaurant we had visited a few years ago. It was a day early, but a lovely birthday dinner for me. There was even a candle on the dessert! We returned to a pretty sunset and enjoyed a postprandial glass of whiskey in the cockpit.

Bailey House, Fernandina Beach. Note the carousel horses on the porch.

Dick’s surf and turf was filet steak and a lobster tail

My surf and turf was filet steak and lobster risotto

A birthday candle on the dessert at David’s Restaurant

We left very late (after 11am) the next morning, because we only had a little over an hour to travel to St Marys. Even then, when we arrived our slip was occupied. They untied quickly and our docking was accomplished without drama. After we had time to settle in, the dockhand took us on a golf cart tour of the town. It was an interesting, and very opinionated tour!

In the 1700’s the Acadian diaspora took place in 3 waves, beginning in 1755. The British had been ceded what are today the Maritime provinces in Canada and some parts of Maine as part of the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. Over the next years, some of the French residents at the time, the Acadians, participated in French military operations against the British. By 1755, if the Acadians refused to take an oath of allegiance, they were removed. Initially, they were sent to the 13 colonies, and the more troublesome the individuals, the farther south they were sent. 500 were sent to South Carolina, and 300 were sent to Georgia. Families were split up. Keep in mind that these would have been large, farming families, with grown sons and daughters. In some cases, women were sent to one place, fathers to another, and the children to a third destination. Some of the women are buried in the St Marys cemetery. What I found amazing when I researched the story was how determined the Acadians were. Many of them simply returned to their homes in Acadia, and were deported again. The second wave were sent to Britain and France, and even then, they took ship and tried to return. Many were shipwrecked or died from other causes. Ultimately, although none were sent to Louisiana by the British, it became a destination for the displaced Acadians, and they made their way there from the various places they had been sent. They became the Cajun people, and contributed to the rich heritage of Louisiana.

The land for laying out the town was purchased in 1787, and the City of St Marys was incorporated in 1802. It was the County Seat, twice, finally losing that status in 1923.

St Marys is the jumping-off point for visits to Cumberland Island. I have stayed in the very characterful Riverside Hotel twice. It was both eccentric and comfortable, and I am sure the dust on the stairs dated back to the 19th century! According to our guide, much of the commercial property in the town has been bought up by a billionaire. Most of the restaurants and shops are owned by him, although some are leased back to the previous owners. He built a huge marina (still partly under construction) to accommodate his 100-foot yacht. The docks appear to be fully functional, but there is no marina business there and no docked boats. We stayed at a small marina at the other side of town.

The town has always been quirky, and in the 8 or so years since I have been there, I saw definite improvements. We are told there is a huge housing tract of over 3000 homes about to be built nearby, but at the moment, there are no jobs or local industry. 20% of the current residents are below the poverty line. The nearby Kings Bay Submarine Base apparently does not provide much employment for outsiders, even though there are over 9000 people working there.

Orange Hall, a historic home in St Marys

We ate on board, then participated in a Loopers’ Zoom docktails session. We chose the “Misadventures on the Loop” section, and were able to regale the participants with several of our mis-judgements and “I told you so” stories. It was fun hearing other scary tales, although I suspect the lady who is just a few days into her Loop came away considerably more worried than amused.

We enjoyed a pleasant day in St Marys. The farm to market shop was a bit of a hike, so Dick took his exercise and came back with some interesting goodies. He also visited the small submarine museum. In the afternoon, we explored the shops. What looked like two similar home goods stores turned out to be something like an antique mall, but with lots of crafts and bric-a-brac as well.

We continued on to Locals Dockside, a waterfront seafood restaurant. We had a good meal with great service, perfectly cooked shrimp and fish, and piping hot fries. The side salads were very fresh and extremely generous in size.

Grilled seafood and vegetables at Locals Dockside

After the sun was low enough on the horizon to not be shining in our eyes, we sat in the cockpit for an evening whiskey. The Thermocell gadget was required, there were far too many no-see-ums! It did work well, so we will certainly be buying refills and using it on our balcony in Hilton Head.

In the morning, the bugs were impossible, so I had to give up my usual peaceful coffee hour in the cockpit. We wanted an early start anyway. The previous day, another large (Looper) boat had arrived and docked behind us, so getting out of the marina was going to be tricky, and best done at slack tide. For our landlubbers, that is the time when the tide changes, so the currents are at their least strength. We had about 10 feet in front of us for Dick to maneuver away from our berth. Good help from the dockmaster and his helper was needed to keep the stern and the dinghy from running into the dock, but it all went very well and we looked like pros!

We listened to the Coast Guard calling boats near the Amelia Island Inlet. There was a nuclear submarine about to enter the channel and make its way to Kings Bay Submarine Base. Several small boats were not paying attention and required multiple calls. When it became clear that the sub might be catching us up as we made our way past Cumberland Island, Dick speeded up so we didn’t have to heave to and wait, or possibly be asked to turn around.

Kings Bay Submarine Base is the largest construction project ever undertaken by the United States Navy. It was started in 1980, took 9 years to complete at a cost of $1.5 billion, and employs over 9000 people. As we passed, a gunboat eased out and hovered with its bow (and gun) pointing at us. Just making sure we were proceeding on our way and not getting any closer to the base. I did NOT step out on deck to take pictures!

As we arrived in St Andrew Sound we had wind opposing tide, giving us a roll on the bow. Dick cooperatively sped up for me. It didn’t really help with the motion, but it meant that it was only a few minutes before it was time to make the turn up the sound and the waves were off the stern. St Andrew Sound is one of several ugly inlets in this part of Georgia. It is wide and shallow, and shoaling means that you have to zigzag across rather than taking a direct route.

The channel that passes Jekyll Island is notoriously skinny, and we went through it at low tide. This may have been a misjudgement! After passing the marina and the public dock, both with extremely shallow water, even bare mud, on the land side, we came into a particularly shoaled section of the channel. Suddenly, Nine Lives was going uphill! We were in the mud. We were only slightly to the west of Bob’s Tracks, but for a few minutes it seemed as though we might run fully aground. We gently pushed through the mud, and eventually it got slightly easier and we were back in the channel.

Shallow water in Jekyll Creek. The inside of the dock is mud with just a few inches of water!

Bob’s Tracks is an app you can download to your charts. It is crowd-sourced, created by a number of boaters who travel back and forth along the ICW each year, and record their exact tracks. These are then combined to produce a single best recommended routing. Much of the time, the tracks are pretty much where the regular magenta line is, but it is in areas of continuous shoaling that it comes into its own. When we last passed through this area, there was no such app to help us. What’s more, we didn’t even have the contour features that are now part of Navionics on the chartplotter, nor did we have Aquamaps on our second, iPad-based charts. It has taken us a bit of adjustment to work out how I can best convey where we need to be for Dick at the helm. Bob’s Tracks are on my iPad, not the chartplotter that Dick has in front of him.

Later, Dick read the Waterway Guide advice for the Jekyll Island Creek. It says, “Do not go through Jekyll Creek at anything less than half tide rising.” We did it at dead-low tide, which was also a foot lower than normal because of spring tides! Might possibly have been a good idea to read that section before we arrived, rather than afterwards.

After that excitement, the rest of the journey to Brunswick went well and we docked without incident shortly after 1pm. Our friend Bob arrived to welcome us, just as we were adjusting the lines, so we roped him into helping (pun intended)! Later, we carried the makings of cheese and charcuterie across to their boat, because Asea is recovering from a mishap that resulted in a broken leg. It was great to spend time with them again. We always laugh a lot when we are together!

The next morning, Dick visited the farmers’ market, and then explored the town. The no-see-ums were impossible, so I stayed below and did some work on the blog and photoshop. This is not a good time of year to be living “outdoors” in the Low Country. When we are at home in Hilton Head in late spring, we stay inside.

Brunswick is a city with a somewhat checkered history. It was very prosperous in the mid to late 1800’s. During the mid-20th century some of the beautiful old buildings that remained from earlier, more prosperous times, were allowed to become derelict and were pulled down and replaced with mid-century modern establishments. The 14 fine leafy garden squares had nobody to save them, and roads were built through the middle of some of the ones that remained. Only 2 of the squares today retain their original size and shape.

One of the remaining squares in Brunswick

During WWII the Liberty Ships were built in Brunswick. There were steel hulled ships, 447 feet long, weighing 3500 tons. They served as cargo vessels and troop carriers. 99 were built for the U.S. Merchant Marines with the shipyard producing about 4 per month. In 1944, the Navy asked for 6 ships to be built, and the shipyard managed to build 7 of the vital ships in a single month.

Both Virginia and Georgia claim to have developed Brunswick Stew. It is traditionally a tomato-based stew with beans, vegetables, and originally small game meat such as squirrel or rabbit. Today it is usually made with chicken. Georgia’s claim includes the original stew pot! One story says that the stew was invented by a group of hunters. One man was left to look after the camp and make dinner. He was lazy, and simply threw all the ingredients into one pot. When the hunters returned, cold, and tired, a delicious stew was ready for them.

Today, Brunswick is a major seaport, one of two in Georgia, and its economy is mainly based on tourism and logistics. In the afternoon we walked into town to have a look around. There are a surprising number of restaurants, and it seems to be something of an antiques destination. Karen drove over from St Simons and joined us with Asea and Bob for dinner at Reid’s Apothecary. It was a great evening with good food and congenial company.

America Liberty, a 100-passenger cruise ship, was docked downtown. We saw her again later, passing us on the ICW when we were docked in Isle of Hope. As we approached the Highway 17 bridge, we could see the casino boat. Also, there were 3 car carriers docked in the South Brunswick River. It’s a busy port.

A barge collecting debris including derelict boats

Highway 17 bridge. We have see this from I-95, many times!

It was a long day, initially boring, but with areas of extreme shoaling where we had to pay close attention to the hazard warnings on the charts and follow Bob’s Tracks meticulously. In the charmingly named Old Teakettle Creek, we passed some markers that were high and dry with the spring low tide.

Markers high and dry on the ICW north of Brunswick

As we turned into Sapelo Sound, we could see whitecaps, so Dick decided to run fast until we were back into South Newport River. It was like stepping through a door – one minute it was very calm and very hot, and then we were in strong winds and cloudy skies to make me shiver. It even rained a little. Not enough, we decided, to need the windows rolling down. In hindsight, we should have rolled them down and swapped out the screen doors! As we entered St Catherine’s Sound, the waves got higher, and soon we were plunging up and down, and spray was coming over the bow like a giant green wave. Salt water came right over the cockpit and washed over me and everything on the starboard side of Nine Lives. Naturally, Dick was completely dry. As the huge waves crashed over the bow, Nine Lives slammed down into the troughs. Dick had already speeded up, and it helped somewhat, until it didn’t, and he had to slow down to keep control. Some waves threw us sideways. Fortunately, that part of the trip, although scary, nasty and wet, was short, and even as we made the turn into the Medway River, the waves were never quite broadside. As we made our way up the river, the waters gradually calmed, and we heaved a sigh of relief. This was probably our worst experience with waves, surpassing even our awful memories of the Neuse River from 2017. Our no-go criteria is 2-foot waves and 15 mph winds. This was 4-to-5-foot waves, and 20 to25 mph winds.

The excitement was not over. We were nearing the part of the river where we were to turn off, cruising in the centre of the channel as is prudent, with both charts showing 27 feet of depth. I looked over at the depth sounder, and said to Dick, “That’s odd.” That is one of the worst things you want to hear on a boat. The depth sounder was showing just 6 feet under us. Suddenly, we came to a juddering halt. Aground. Dick was right on it, and immediately put the engines into neutral. We were lucky, the high winds, and waves coming from behind, lifted us and we floated free. We can only conclude that the shoal marked on the charts has encroached far into the channel since the last time the Army Corps of Engineers passed this way.

After that, we were happy to have an easy docking with good help and the wind blowing us onto, rather than off, the dock. Once we were in, we could see the mess our adventure had made. Fortunately, we have good discipline and keep the cupboards latched, so nothing had fallen out inside the boat. The salt water that drenched the starboard side of Nine Lives came through the screens, which were quite dirty after weeks of travel. All of that dirt, plus the salt, was deposited on the windowsills, cushions, and even onto the back door, right up to the ceiling!

Salt water through the screens made everything filthy!

We ate at the rustic Sunbury Crab Company. We had been there once before (by car), so we knew that the food would be good. Great service, and a very chatty owner, made for a pleasant evening.

Commercial boats docked at Sunbury Crab Company

Queso and chicken wings at Sunbury Crab Company

There were heavy thunderstorms during the night, so everything was soaked in the morning. The side of the boat that faced the dock was coated with an amazing variety of insects. We debated whether the forecasted rain and wind was such that we should stay put for another day, but the next day was going to be even worse, albeit sunny. The no-see-ums buzzed around us as we untied and got underway. We timed our departure so that it would be slack tide when we got to St Catherine’s Sound. The plan worked, and the waves were not as bad as the previous afternoon. The period was also shorter, that is, the waves were closer together, so Nine Lives was not riding up and slamming down as she had the day before.

The next challenge was Ossabaw Sound, which is in two parts, joined by a channel called Hell Gate (really, even on the charts!) This is extremely narrow and shallow, and subject to wind tides. That means that a sustained wind can actually blow the water out of the channel. Fortunately, the wind was in the “right” direction, and we were still only a little after high tide, so the passage, much dreaded by Loopers, was uneventful. Once through Ossabaw Sound, the rest of the journey was pleasant and smooth, just the way we like it! We arrived at Isle of Hope Marina, our last stop on our Loop voyages, by 1pm.

There are incredible numbers and variety of bugs in this part of the world. Not only no-see-ums, which are as tiny and sneaky as the name implies, but also the large greenflies that give a very painful bite. Annoying, but fortunately not biting, are strange long-legged spider-like things, and of all the unexpected pests to find on a boat, grasshoppers!

The heat and the bugs kept us inside for most of the day on Isle of Hope, but we ventured out in the marina courtesy car to stock up on beer and to have a late lunch. The Driftaway Café has earned TripAdvisor’s highest accolades, and the food was certainly very good. The venue was decorated throughout by sea creatures painted on the walls and ceilings, and quirky tchotchkes. There were plants everywhere, and the decks and garden were lined with an amazing number of small pots with colourful flowers. Cleo, the customer support feline was dozing on one of the outside tables, waiting with the menu to greet the next diners.

Driftaway Cafe Customer Support Feline, Isle of Hope

The bugs were awful in the evening and first thing in the morning. We headed out at 9am for the final leg of our 8-year voyage.

We passed Thunderbolt Marina. Nine Lives will come here for new bottom paint and when a new buyer asks for a survey.

Crossing the busy ship channel of the Savannah River and going through the shallow Fields Cut were uneventful. We followed a gorgeous 100-ft yacht. Her name was the engaging, and slightly disrespectful Waddle We Do. As we came into Calibogue Sound we were surprised to see not one, but two cruise ships anchored off Harbour Town. One of them was American Liberty, who we first saw in Brunswick and again when she passed Isle of Hope. The other was American Eagle. Both are 100-passenger coastal cruising ships.

American Liberty anchored off Harbour Town, Hilton Head

We have never seen a Coast Guard boat towing an ATON before!

We arrived at the lock at Wexford, where we departed from in April 2018. Somehow the channel leading to the lock seemed narrower! Once in the lock, with only inches to spare on each side, Nine Lives looked huge! We were soon tied up on the guest dock, and had time to relax and watch the construction. Wexford is building a new, much larger harbour building and is also doing a major renovation to the clubhouse.

Nine Lives has returned to Wexford for a final visit

Later, I was able to join my bridge friends, even filled in for a hand, before the traditional wine and gossip afterwards. We spent a quiet evening (blessedly with many fewer no-see-ums) and woke to a pretty sunrise over the golf course.

Sunrise over the golf course and the harbour in Wexford

For the eagle-eyed, and mathematically inclined readers, you might notice a slight disconnect between some of our stated statistics. We collected Nine Lives in January of 2017, in St Petersburg. So we technically finished the Great Loop, and earned the gold burgee, this February when we passed under the bridge in Tampa Bay.

AGLCA awards the BaccaLOOPerate degree when we complete the Great Loop

In 2017, we spent a few weeks bringing Nine Lives to Hilton Head, where she was based in Wexford, behind our house, until April of 2018. During the summer of 2017, we went on a 3000-mile shake-down cruise (yes, 3000 miles, only Dick would call that a shake-down cruise). We went north, following the traditional route of the Great Loop, as far as Oswego on Lake Ontario and then returned. We had a decent boating resume before we bought Nine Lives, but we had never owned a large boat, and much of our most relevant experience was on sailboats and narrowboats. We did not know what we did not know! So we sailed off into the wild blue yonder, ever so slightly unprepared, but full of confidence. There were adventures and misadventures, and it was on this cruise that Tucker-cat decided that he is NOT a boat-cat, and prefers to remain on dry land. The following year, having added Nine Lives to the annual AGLCA fleet t-shirt, we set off on the first of our 7-year segments of the Great Loop.

Nine Lives leaving Wexford in April, 2017

To resume this year’s story, the next morning, Dick rode his bike to our friend’s house to retrieve his car, which he then parked at Palmetto Bay Marina. I spent the morning cleaning, including polishing the outside railings and cleaning the cockpit of accumulated salt grime. This was the day of our big party to celebrate Nine Lives and the completion of our epic journey. Perhaps it should be referred to as a pawty? Or, given that Nine Lives is a cat, we could talk about the purrrty.

Then there was nothing to do for a few hours, since the party was to be catered! In due course, a huge table arrived and was set on the dock. There was a certain amount of concern because there was a gusty wind blowing. We decided that drinks would be on the dock, and food on the boat. Five enormous trays of an amazing variety of hors d’oevres arrived next. Sausage rolls, quiche, cheese and charcuterie, shrimp, tiny flatbread slices, and a whole tray of beautiful macarons and fruit were spread out in the cockpit and downstairs in the salon.

We can certainly say that the party was a success. 37 people managed to fit themselves onto Nine Lives, spreading out between the cockpit, the salon, the foredeck, and even on the back platform. The food was excellent, and our serving helper kept the wine and beer flowing. Most of the guests had not been on Nine Lives before, so it gave them a chance to see what our floating home looks like.

Guests and food for the Nine Lives Pawty

In the morning, we took Nine Lives around the whole of Wexford Harbour for a last look at the lovely homes and gardens, and then out through the lock and the very short trip down Broad Creek to Palmetto Bay Marina. Nine Lives will stay there until she finds a new owner to take her on new adventures.

A Green Heron welcomed Nine Lives to Palmetto Bay Marina

As the helpful dockmaster assisted with our arrival and tying up, he commented, on seeing the gold burgee, that we were finishing the Great Loop, and he made the assumption that we had taken the usual one year and travelled the traditional 6,000 miles. We explained that in fact it had been 8 years and 20,000 miles, and his exclamation was “Did you get lost?” So yes, we got lost by seeing all but one of the Great Lakes, by going up the Mississippi, by venturing up the Ohio, the Monongahela, and the Cumberland Rivers, and this winter by following the Gulf Coast all the way around the Florida Keys. And let’s not forget, we also went through Lake Champlain and the Chambly Canal, followed by the Rideau. We visited places that most Loopers don’t see, including Lake Huron and Detroit, Cleveland, Sault Ste Marie, Minneapolis St Paul, Cincinnati and Pittsburgh, and Nashville. And all the wonderful small towns in between.

This is the close of the Nine Lives Voyages story. We anticipate that soon Nine Lives will sail off into the sunset with new crew, who are sure to love her as much as we do. There will be new adventures, and perhaps she will revisit many of the places that she has been with us. Thank you to all of you who have been with us on this journey. I am continually surprised and so grateful to hear that people are reading this story.

Our friends Sherry and Shel gave us this lovely plaque to celebrate our Great Loop

We are going to do other things, travel more and farther, visit friends far and wide, play some golf, and take some time to enjoy all that Hilton Head has to offer. One of the party guests left us some advice, that is entirely apropos:

Advice from a Sea Turtle

Swim with the current

Be a good navigator

Stay calm under pressure

Be well travelled

Think long term

Age gracefully

Spend time at the beach!

March 6th to 18th, 2025: Sanibel Island to Stock Island

Wednesday the 6th was a busy, social day. Early in the morning, I met our slip neighbour just as the harbourmaster delivered fresh, hot, blueberry muffins to our boat. Our neighbour had just taken possession of a 15-year-old Back Cove, and was preparing to take it across Florida and then north to his home in Cape Cod, after some much needed work in a couple of boatyards along the way. Dick took MOKE for a final run to stock up on heavy grocery items, while I worked on getting the next issue of the blog completed and published.

Local Harbor Hosts Mike and Deb came over from Fort Meyers and we had a pleasant lunch at the onsite restaurant. Later in the afternoon, we enjoyed a great reunion with Jim and Marilyn, who we met in 2021 on Lake Michigan. We all tucked into cheese and sausage and exchanged stories of our various boating experiences, as well as interesting international business travel stories.

Very high winds and waves were forecast for the next day, so we stayed put. It was a good day for boat chores. In the afternoon, we took a walk to have a look at the beach – we were very glad we weren’t out in that weather!

A few of the fun mailboxes in front of Sanibel homes

Our voyage to Naples was straightforward, with relatively smooth seas, although unfortunately in a direction that gave us a certain amount of corkscrew motion. Not enough to require medication or wrist bands, but I certainly was not going down into the cabin in those conditions.

Naples is reached by turning into a very narrow and shallow channel with a lot of shoaling. We could see breakers on one side of us, and an optimistic surfer waiting his chance. I can’t imagine a more dangerous place to surf, one miscalculation could put you right into the path of an oncoming boat. Once you are through the cut, the waterway opens up and winds north for several miles. The shores are lined with beautiful homes. Here again, the speed limit in the channel is 30mph, and outside is a no wake zone. This is to protect the manatees, but it makes things difficult for slower boaters, as they are subject to wakes they can’t avoid or turn into.

On arrival at the city marina, we went straight to the fuel dock for a pump out. Staff were efficient, answering the radio when we called, and helping to tie up. I would not call them friendly, as some reviewers have experienced, and as often happens, the man who took the midships line refused to cleat it tight, making it difficult for Dick to bring the stern in. Our overnight dockage was just along the dock, but it required slotting between two large sportfish boats, so Dick had to go out, turn around, and then maneuver back in. This time the dock hand was more understanding of how Nine Lives ties up, having seen what is needed.

Our spot on the outside dock meant some motion from passing boats, but it was worth it to be able to watch the traffic. There is no security in the marina, and it seems to be a “thing” to walk around the docks and look at the boats. One man was explaining, quite loudly, to his family that we obviously bring Nine Lives from Hilton Head and stay for the winter. When he saw me looking, he asked how long it had taken us to get to Naples. I was amused at the look on his face when I told him, 8 years! Explanations were then offered, but it’s always fun to be able to correct mansplaining. There must have been at least 50 people wandering around and commenting on the various craft. I have never seen so many tourist boats, all doing a roaring trade. There were lots of tiny floating tiki bars with just 4 or 5 people sitting on bar stools while the vessel puttered around the harbour. There were the usual dolphin watch pontoon boats, also at least 2 very large sailing cats as well as monohull sailing boats heading out for cruises in the Gulf. There were also the expected sport fishing boats, and a large dinner cruising yacht.

Naples City Dock on a misty morning before the traffic starts

Dick took time to explore the town, finding a couple of very interesting shopping precincts that we would plan to return to later with a rental car. In the evening, we walked to the nearby Bleu Provence, another outstanding French restaurant. Service was excellent, and the food was delicious. Once again, the noise was incredible, it seems to be the main downside of dining in Florida. Dick commented that it has been our luck lately to be seated at a table next to one with a particularly loud man who holds forth at length on topics that are of zero interest to nearby diners.

Bleu Provence desserts, profiteroles and a crepe

We didn’t have far to go to Marco Island, so we left at 11am. It should have been an enjoyable trip through the Naples channel, looking at all the beautiful houses. Sadly, because of the 30mph speed limit and the huge number of Saturday boaters, it was just an unpleasant half hour of being thrown around by wakes. Not the fault of the boaters, they are doing the speed limit that they are allowed, and looking forward to getting out onto the Gulf. Once we got out there, it was unpleasant in a whole different way. Long, rolling waves on the bow meant that wristbands were required, and I was very unhappy. The official trip planner, when questioned, indicated that the sea state was not at all as predicted. Fortunately, it wasn’t a long trip, and once we were into the channel for Marco Island everything calmed down. All the waterways around the Island are strictly minimum wake or no wake, so travel is much more enjoyable.

We arrived at our marina, and our slip neighbour offered to catch our lines. For a change, when asked to cleat the midship line tight, he did! Docking was very quick and easy with such great help. Dick checked in with the dockmaster, and then walked over to the other marina on the bay, hoping that one of the two would have had a cancellation and we would be able to avoid some or all of the expected nights at anchor. No luck.

In the evening, we walked to a nearby steakhouse. They have very good reviews, but sadly, our experience did not live up to expectations. My steak was charred on the outside, and the asparagus was yellow and bitter, should never have left the kitchen. The dessert we shared looked gorgeous, but it did not taste very good and neither of us wanted to finish it. It was a very pricey meal for what it was.

Steakhouse dessert, attractive, but only the strawberry tasted good!

Next morning, Dick checked again to see if we could remain in the marina. He was offered an 18-foot-wide slip, and thought we might just squeeze into it (one thinks about a large lady and a corset). At the waterline, we are less than our 18’8” width at the widest point, our rub rail. We untied and made the attempt, but sadly, we couldn’t fit as the dock was just that bit higher than we had hoped. Instead, we anchored just outside the marina, between 2 sailboats as planned. We spent an interesting afternoon watching boats to-ing and fro-ing. There was a small cruise ship in port (100 passengers). Some of the passengers were taken on a dolphin cruise, and their boat got into trouble and had to be rescued and towed back by Sea Tow. An interesting experience for the passengers, if not quite what they were expecting.

Sea Tow rescues the dolphin watching tour boat

American Glory leaves port in the evening

After a quiet night, we re-recorded the podcast we had done earlier for AGLCA. The topic is “Segment Looping”, that is, doing the great Loop in segments rather than all at once as is more usual. We were asked about how we chose our boat, how we decided on the length of the segments, where we put the boat when we were not aboard, and of course, the advantages and disadvantages of segment looping.

We dropped the dinghy, and Dick set off to collect the rental car he had arranged. The weather in the afternoon went from interesting to exciting. We started with heavy rain and some rumbling thunder. After the rain stopped, the wind really came up and we began to swing from side to side. There was a small craft warning for the entire west coast of Florida. The wind howled, and we swung faster through 180 degrees. Earlier, Dick had chatted with the couple on the sailboat anchored next to us. They were having a bad week. They had gone out in rough weather, and were lifted by a big wave and slammed down on something, debris, sand bar, possibly the broken marker off the Marco Island Channel? The impact was enough to bend their floorboards, so they had concerns that there was serious damage to their hull. A haul-out was scheduled for later in the week, and meanwhile, they were anchoring while they waited for their appointment. Next piece of bad luck, their dinghy motor died. Dick gave Bill his card, and offered a ride if needed to shore the next day, to save them having to row.

A couple of hours later, the phone rang, it was Bill to say that their dinghy had broken free and was floating away. Fortunately, it was floating into one of the canals rather than out into the bay. Dick quickly donned life vest and shoes, and headed out. He managed to capture the runaway, not without some challenge, as it had slid under the only open dock on the canal. He returned it to the sailboat, and in due course it was pulled up onto its davits, instead of just being tied. Everyone then settled back to what they were doing, and listened to the wind howl.

The afternoon excitement was not over by any means. I looked over at our sailboat friends, and realized they were dragging their anchor. As I tried to work out the best way to get their attention, they noticed the situation, and started their engines. They began the process of resetting their anchor. Dick decided to check ours, and saw that one of the lines of the bridle had come off. Life vest, headsets, start engines, and we began a little resetting of our own. It didn’t take long, and once we were set again, we poured well-deserved adult beverages and sat watching.

A small trawler that had come into the bay, and anchored behind us, decided to relocate for the second time that day. Meanwhile, our sailboat friends seemed to be set, and put on their snubber (this is a line that functions as our bridle does, taking the weight of the anchor chain off the anchor roller). Within a few minutes they were in motion again, and trying to get the anchor to set. We suspect a couple of issues. The type of anchor they have does not appear to swivel like ours, so as the boat swings back and forth it is less likely to remain set. We also suspect that they are backing down too hard and too soon, and then not putting out enough rode (that’s the chain, rope, or combination of the two that goes between the anchor and the boat). Dick and I always put out at least 7:1, that is, 7 times the depth from the bridle attachment points. We have seen advice for 5:1, or even 3:1, but 7:1 was what we were taught for an overnight stop. Ultimately, they were unable to get their anchor to hold, but meanwhile, Dick left a message to tell them about the vacant slip we couldn’t fit into, or the alternative of tying up at the fuel dock, since it was now after hours. They chose to head for the fuel dock.

Just to finish their rather sad story, Bill let us know later that after the haulout and inspection by the insurance adjuster, it is certain that their beautiful Oceanis 45 will be written off, as it cannot be repaired. They are selling everything portable and fortunately had an “agreed value” insurance policy, so they will get back what they paid for the boat. An object lesson, reminding all of us not to go out in conditions that are worse than we should be in.

Eventually, the chop subsided, but the wind was still high, so Dick had to cook the burgers on the frying pan in the galley. The wind would have blown out the flame under the grill! As it happens, the burgers were delicious, and perfectly cooked, and in my opinion, we should always do them in the frying pan in future.

Tuesday turned out to be a busy and interesting day. After a leisurely start, we got into the dinghy and motored over to the fuel dock, which doubles as a dinghy dock. There is a $10 plus tax charge, which is pretty unusual, although it does allow in/out privileges. The biggest issue is that after 6pm, you are supposed to have left, because the dock is behind the security gates and they do not provide the code to dinghy owners. Fortunately for our plans, we already knew the code, although we kept that quiet and told the cashier that we had friends in the marina who would let us in.

Our first stop was a high-end shopping center at another marina. Dick’s sources for marina selection had suggested that it was not suitable for boats of our size, and that the access was too shallow, so he had not tried to get a reservation there. Having seen 2 Looper boats in there this week, we could have fit.

The shops were disappointing, with the exception of a jewellery shop that offered unique pieces of shells and marine glass, set in silver. We would have bought something there, but the saleslady was unable to help us while a couple dithered over their purchase. After a very long wait, we gave up.

Next, we drove to the end of the island, marvelling at the sheer number of high-rise condo buildings. Assuming that each unit has one vehicle, the traffic jams must be horrendous, and we now know why the restaurants at that end of the island are fully booked.

We parked in another shopping centre that happened to have a branch of my favourite ladies’ shop, as well as being the location of our (early) dinner reservation. Having bought two nice things at Chico’s, I was delighted to discover that there were more shops with very unusual, and flattering, clothes that just had to be added to my wardrobe. Dick can occasionally be a good shopping buddy, and this was one of those rare times. He selected several garments that subsequently found their way into shopping bags. Exhausted by our efforts, we fortified ourselves with ice cream before heading out for some grocery shopping. It was late enough by the time we finished that we decided not to return to the boat, instead we went directly to the restaurant.

Da Vinci’s is a huge venue, that was completely filled by shortly after 5pm. Many of the diners appeared to be family groups, grandma and grandpa, parents, and grandchildren on vacation. Dinner was excellent, and service was also very good. It just shows that having enough staff makes a big difference to success, especially in restaurants that cater to families and vacationers.

Da Vinci’s desserts, Napoleon and a Spanish coffee

Returning to Nine Lives was accomplished without drama, and we had a very peaceful night. We suspect the anchor had dragged a small amount with tide changes, but it always dug in again and we remained within the circle I set for the anchor alarms.

The next morning we were fascinated watching TowBoatUS retrieve the derelict sailboat that had been anchored beside us. Derelict boats left at anchor are a huge problem in southern US, especially in Florida. Wealthy homeowners don’t want to have to look at deteriorating vessels outside their expensive properties. We find this completely understandable. The problem comes when communities and counties try a shotgun approach and put forward legislative bills to forbid anchoring entirely. There are already laws and procedures in place to deal with the situation, but instead of following them, a draconian approach is proposed again and again in the form of new and ever more restrictive laws. Concerned boating organizations do their best to counter the proposals but are not always successful. We were happy to see the derelict retrieval, as it shows that measures can be taken to handle the problem. It took less than an hour from the time the towing company came out to dropping the derelict at the dock and heading out on another job.

We were able to get into our slip across the bay a little early. The anchor took a while to come loose from the mud – three days of wind and fetch with almost continual swinging back and forth meant it was well dug in.

Two Endeavourcats at Factory Bay Marina. Nine Lives is the further of the two.

As soon as Dick had retrieved the rented vehicle, we set off for Naples. Another successful shopping day! I said to Dick, we have made up in just 2 days for 3 years of scarce shopping on the inland rivers. This extravaganza was a little more even, 2 shirts for Dick, a necklace and an outfit for me, and a very nice silk flower arrangement for the condo.

Next stop was Bha! Bha!, a Persian restaurant. The food was beautifully presented and absolutely delicious. I started with gravlax, while Dick had lamb meatballs. His main course was the Persian chef’s interpretation of paella, which he loved. I had a wonderful dish of beef tenderloin pieces with tomatoes, eggplant, and red peppers in a spicy sauce. The desserts were also beautifully presented, but sadly they were too sweet for our taste.

Bha! Bha! Persian Restaurant gravlax and lamb meatballs to start

Bha! Bha! beautiful, but very sweet desserts

On our travels to and from Naples, there was a road sign warning about panthers crossing. I would have loved to have seen a panther. Instead, I saw two wild pigs foraging along the verges. I suppose they would make a good lunch for a panther…

The next day was another full day. We returned to Naples, to the second upscale shopping precinct that Dick had scouted earlier in the week. We found a couple of very interesting, eclectic boutiques with things for the home. The clothing shops were less interesting, probably just as well! Lunch was at Alberto’s, an Italian restaurant. We chose the cauliflower soup to start, which was delicious. We both ordered salads, Dick’s with mixed seafood, and mine with lobster and shrimp. They were excellent. Desserts were interesting. Dick enjoyed a parfait made with limoncello, and I ordered Grand Marnier crème brulee. It was a bit startling, as it arrived with 5” of flames creating the sugar crust. I can’t remember a dish being delivered on fire before.

We returned to Marco Island, and after Dick returned the rental car, we spent a quiet evening. We hoped to have an evening drink with our slip neighbours, fellow Loopers, but it didn’t work out, so we made plans to get together in Key West.

It was an early start for our second Gulf crossing. This one would be daylight only, with plans to shorten the duration by running fast. We ran the whole way at about 85% of WOT (wide open throttle, that is, the fastest the engines can go), giving us between 13 and 15 knots. This was partly for comfort, but also to make sure that a prolonged journey at this speed was fine for the engines. One unexpected challenge was the crab pots. We did not expect them so far off shore and in water depths of 50 feet. The pots are marked by floats, each about 6” to 8” in diameter. Here they were mostly in groups of 3, but they were still very difficult to see. They bob up and down in the waves, and between the sun glinting on the water and the small whitecaps, they were practically invisible. Dick’s chair is further forward than mine, and of course he is taller, and with the bow slightly elevated at the speed we were travelling, I had no hope of seeing them except through the side window. By then they are pretty close for Dick to find the next in the line and maneuver around it. These crab pot floats are not something you want to just run over. If you cut the line or damage the float, you are hurting the fisherman’s livelihood. Also, you risk damage to your hull and running gear. Get the line wrapped around the prop and you are instantly dead in the water.

Nine Lives speeds up and makes a rooster tail!

We arrived at the marina in Key West by 3pm. The basin is huge, but there are 4 separate marinas, and it is both crowded and higgledy piggledy. Nine Lives was salt encrusted after her fast run, so Dick’s first order of business was a washdown of all the decks, railings, and windows.

In the evening, we joined fellow Loopers Beth and Calvin for dinner at a local steakhouse. The food was very good, as was the service, and they were great company. Their boat was behind us in Marco Island, and they made the same crossing a couple of hours after us.

We set out to explore Key West the next morning. Dick booked 2 days for the hop-on-hop-off trolley tour, so we began by taking the full 90-minute round-trip tour of the island.

Shotgun House in Key West. The front and back doors are in line, for ventilation.

The Saturday before St Patrick’s Day is a big celebration in Key West, so students on spring break, cruise ship passengers, and hundreds of other tourists wandered the streets, in and out of the many bars, and generally enjoyed a raucous good time. Crowds and drunks are never my thing, so I was reminded of being told by friends that you either love it or hate it when speaking of Key West. I was well on the way to the latter until after dinner, as we walked back to the boat along quiet, leafy streets of gracious old houses with lovely tropical gardens.

Key West celebrates St Patrick’s Day with enthusiasm

A St Patrick’s Day display of rubber duckies

There were some interesting stories on the trolley tour. One must always assume part fantasy, I have heard the most outrageous lies told by tour guides!

One story goes that in the mid 20th century, the island was populated by the navy and the shrimp fishermen. These groups hated each other, but there was only one bar on the island at the time, so they found themselves drinking together after hard days at sea. The bar, The Red Doors Saloon, was also known as “The Bucket of Blood”. Fights broke out regularly, and brawling was a way of life. Apparently, when you arrived at the bar, you were searched for weapons before being allowed to enter the premises. If you didn’t have one, they gave you one – just to ensure that everyone had an equal chance. One can look up the true story. Research shows that the building dates from 1868, and was at various times, a cigar factory, a ship’s chandlery, a grocery and hardware store, and a bar. It was always a shrimper’s bar, and its reputation as a place of beatings, stabbings, assaults, and even quiet murders was well earned. By 1972, the regulars had moved on and the bar was no longer viable and closed its doors. Today it is an upscale lady’s boutique. There is another story about this building’s colourful history. At one time, the upstairs was used as a bordello. When the building was renovated, inside one of the upstairs walls were found a great many mens’ wallets. Apparently, the ladies of the evening would rob their patrons and toss the empty wallets into a cavity in the wall. The tour guide commented that given the clothing sold today in this shop, men are still leaving without the contents of their wallets.

Red Doors Saloon, or The Bucket of Blood, today a more genteel ladies shop.

In the 19th century, many Cubans came to the island to avoid troubles in their own country. They brought with them their culture and cuisine, and also their chickens. These ran loose, and inevitably multiplied. Early in the morning, while I sat in the cockpit enjoying coffee, I could hear roosters crowing all over town. I imagine that would not help much with the inevitable morning-after hangovers suffered by the St Patrick’s Day revelers. The chickens are feral, and are considered a nuisance by residents, but they are an important part of the island’s history and are now protected.

The southernmost part of USA is supposedly on the south side of the island. There is a marker to designate the spot, and it is considered obligatory for visitors to have their picture taken in front of the large painted concrete buoy. The queue was a block long. We decided to pass on that particular experience. In fact, the marker is not at the southernmost point of the US, it’s not even the southernmost point of Key West. It is also not the remains of the Key West lighthouse that was wrecked in a hurricane. It was set up as a tourist attraction in 1983 by the city.

Southernmost marker (picture snapped between tourists, the queue was a block long).

Southernmost House. It has only one bedroom. The owners loved to entertain, and much of the house is a ballroom, but guests slept in one of three other houses nearby, because the owners did not want their company overnight.

When the navy first arrived, with the mission to clear out the pirates in the Caribbean, Key West was a one mile square island. The navy needed more space, so they started dredging, using the coral they dug to fill in the wetlands and increase the size of the island. By the time it had grown to 4 miles square, it became clear that they were dredging faster than the coral could renew, and doing irreparable damage to the only coral reef in United States waters. The expansion stopped, and that end of the island is called “New Town”, as distinguished from “Old Town”, the site of the original settlement.

Sloppy Joe’s Bar officially opened in 1933, the day that Prohibition was repealed. In fact, the island was full of speakeasies, the Island being a bastion of free-thinkers who considered that Prohibition was an amusing exercise dreamed up by the government. It was Ernest Hemmingway’s favourite bar, and while it originally had several other names, Sloppy Joe’s was the one that stuck.

Sloppy Joe’s, Hemmingway’s favourite bar. Note the guy on a bicycle wearing a green beard for St Patrick’s Day.

Dinner was at Café Marquesa, a beautiful, elegant restaurant that is part of a very upscale hotel, spread over several historic homes. The owner (manager?) met every guest as they entered, and checked back with them during the meal to make sure everything was as expected. The restaurant offers what is described as “gourmet coastal cuisine.” The meal was excellent, starting with an interesting amuse bouche, a small beignet, filled with cotija cheese, resting on a lightly spicy chili sauce. The courses and portions were designed to put together a 4-course meal, so Dick enjoyed what was very similar to a tasting menu. I decided to try the salad to begin, and Dick had she crab soup. After a small pasta dish with crawfish tails, Dick’s main course was duck breast, while I had filet mignon Oscar, topped with a small crab cake and served on a perfectly executed roesti potato cake. We shared a dessert trio.

As we walked back along the beautiful streets of the residential part of the old town, we saw a hen shepherding her chicks across the road, watched by an interested golden retriever, fortunately well secured on his leash.

We sat in the cockpit and enjoyed a nightcap. Clearly, the Key West spirit is contagious, because we decided a second glass was called for, and we stayed up long past Looper midnight!

We set off the next day to repeat the trolley tour – different guide, different stories, and sitting on the opposite side to get different pictures.

The tarpon and the pelicans are waiting for the guy in the red shirt to toss them the scraps as he cleans the fish caught that day.

From my perspective, we probably couldn’t have chosen a worse week to be there. It was hot – between temperatures over 80F and high humidity, it felt like 90F, and the sun beat down on the concrete sidewalks. The St Patrick’s celebration and spring break combined to create my most disliked scenario, crowds and drunks. The next week might have been a perfect time, cooler, quieter, but we are not there then.

The tour driver had a great sense of humour, but he was clearly hungover and did not have as many interesting stories as the previous day. Afterwards, we did the Key West thing, and repaired to a bar for tropical beverages.

Better Than Sex, a dessert only restaurant

A foolish tourist tries to feed a pelican

Our dinner plans were for a late meal at Hot Tin Roof, having reserved one of the coveted outside tables. It was still hot and muggy, and on arrival we realized that the outside tables are on a balcony overlooking a popular bar with live music, all very loud! We were able to get a table inside instead. The meal started with delicious and unusual garlic toasts with Manchego butter. Dick’s choices for the meal were good, but I found that my food was overwhelmed by the sauces. The key lime pie for dessert made up for everything. It was delicious and nothing like what we have had before.

We were not able to stay longer in the marina in Key West because they had a previous booking, and we don’t fit into the slips that were vacant. Dick booked 3 nights at Perry Hotel Marina on Stock Island, which is across the bridge from Key West. It would take just an hour, especially if we ran fast, to get there from Key West. We knew that conditions would be bad. The wind was howling. Calvin helped us untie, if he hadn’t been there, we would have had trouble. Dick had spoken with a couple of fishing boat captains, who confirmed his expectation that the worst would be just outside the harbour, with the wind coming from the north and the waves directly on the beam. Once in the lee of Fleming Key, it would be better, and then as soon as we rounded the point and were on the south side of Key West we would have greater protection from the wind.

The “adventure” unfolded pretty much as predicted. Dick was pleased with the way Nine Lives handled the conditions, although he commented that we have never had the waves splash the roof of the cockpit before. Later, after we were safely tied up, the Coast Guard issued a small craft warning for the Florida Keys (by definition, Nine Lives is a small craft). The winds were predicted to get worse through the day, hence our 8:30am departure in 25 knot winds. On arrival, I felt that a large whiskey was required, but given that it was not even 10am, I settled for coffee.

We travelled through part of Hawk Channel, the passage that connects the Atlantic Ocean with the Gulf. The Florida Reef Tract, the only living coral barrier reef in the continental USA, lies along the channel and helps to protect the Keys (and us) from heavy surf. Pink shrimp are caught by shrimpers anchoring between the reef and the shore. These shrimp are nocturnal, that is, they move around at night, and bury themselves in the sand and mud on the bottom during the day. The story goes that they were discovered by accident, when a shrimp boat captain left his nets down in the water overnight, and when they were lifted in the morning, they were full of a new species of shrimp. A nice story. As we made our way along the south shore of Key West, we could see the fishing boats anchored, with their nets out but not down in the water. One presumes that they had already lifted the nets and were processing the catch.

Shrimp boats on the horizon as we make our way to Stock Island

Shrimp boat, anchored. Note the nets are out of the water.

In the harbour we saw a saildrone, a very interesting unmanned vessel that Dick had read is being used by the Navy and by NOAA. The Saildrone website is very interesting, these vessels can be used for infrastructure on oceans (think undersea cables), offshore energy surveys and development, ocean monitoring and climate science, and of course national security and defence.

We arrived at the Perry Hotel and Marina, quite relieved that we were there as planned and without extra drama. It is a nice facility, with many features including swimming pool, fitness center, onsite restaurant and a bar with live music nightly, laundry, bath house, captains lounge, etc etc. They even have an hourly shuttle to Key West Old Town, that runs until 10pm, so all of the restaurants of Key West are easily accessible. We saw as we came in that there was an Endeavour Trawlercat Skylounge called Remember When. The name was familiar, Dick thought we had met them on the Alligator River in North Carolina in 2017. When we looked at our filed boat cards, there was their card, and Dick was quite right. He chatted with them later, and they remembered us too.

Hosing off the salt after a rough passage

We are planning a quiet few days here before leaving for Marathon. A good time for laundry and boat chores, and a rest from the hustle and bustle of Key West.

August 4 to 17, 2023: Morgantown to Pittsburgh

On our last evening in Morgantown we walked to the nearby Marriott Hotel for dinner at the Bourbon Prime Restaurant. We were pleasantly surprised at how good the food was, as so many hotel restaurants are not up to expectations or the prices charged. Pepperoni rolls were a particular highlight. They are small rolls with pepperoni sausage baked in, topped with parmesan and served with marinara sauce. These were described as a West Virginia specialty. Dick had the prime rib special, and I liked their prime rib sandwich. The chocolate espresso dessert was most unusual and delicious.

Pepperoni Rolls at Bourbon Prime in Morgantown

Bourbon Prime Chocolate espresso dessert

We were away by 9am on the 4th. Although we had stayed for 3 nights, there was no charge by the city for dockage. In subsequent conversations with other boaters, we learned that the city has essentially abandoned the idea of a properly serviced marina, and the power posts have been disabled and water cut off. Interestingly, there is a sign that advises that additional transient dockage is available just downriver at the city park, however, we have also read that anyone who tries to stay there for more than one night is moved on by local police.

One of the lock keepers told Dick that this is a good time to be transiting the Monongahela River, as most of the businesses that support the barge traffic are on their summer break. Normally there would be 10-12 tows a day going through the locks, with commensurate delays for pleasure boaters like us.

We were amazed at the huge coal pile at the Fort Martin Power Station. 150 deaths a year are attributed to the fine particles emitted from this plant, in addition to several thousand hospitalizations and illnesses. Gas-fired generating plants produce only 1/10 of the pollutants from coal plants. For the sake of comparison, West Virginia has 175 deaths per year from drunk driving. Much attention is paid to this second statistic, and yet the average person does not seem to have much awareness of the dangers from polluted air and water, in spite of many years of campaigning by concerned organizations. As Dick pointed out, deaths from drunk driving are individual, and usually fairly obvious to pinpoint cause and effect, whereas deaths from air and/or water pollution are less certain. Also, big business has deep pockets and many lawyers, while the average Joe does not.

Fort Martin Power Station with its huge coal pile

Our performance at Point Marion Lock was our worst in quite a while. I miscalculated, and brought Nine Lives too close to the wall too early, so she bounced gently but determinedly off the wall with the fenders. I tried to correct, but then we were too far away from the floating bollard and Dick dropped the line. I had to back up and start again. The next lock transit was without drama and up to our usual professional standard!

We tied up at Jessop Boat Club. Our first attempt to get into the suggested slip had to be abandoned, as the finger piers were too short for us to be able to get off the boat. Dick turned around and started to back in, but then the helpful dockmaster said that the end dock is longer and would work better for us. Since there was no power at either location, we went for the longer dock. We hoped for a long enough hose to get to the water tap, as we had been 3 days without, and there would not be any the next day. We can go 4, perhaps 5 days without filling the tank, but to do so requires careful management, including navy showers. A navy shower is when you save water by turning off the tap except for an initial wetting down and subsequent rinsing. From my point of view, it takes away all the enjoyment of the shower, plus missing any health benefits of the warm/hot water increasing blood flow.

Dick was able to borrow a long enough hose, and with much to-ing and fro-ing back and forth along the docks, he got the water going. Nine Lives was able to get a nice wash down to get rid of mud from lock walls and the evidence of an incontinent bird, plus having the water tanks filled.

In the evening we walked up to the onsite restaurant. The food was quite good of its kind (baskets, burgers, chicken wings). The Boat Club is a popular gathering spot, with over 600 members. We met one or two people and enjoyed chatting. A recently installed water slide has proved very popular with members, allowing the children to be well occupied while the adults socialize.

The next morning, as he was making the coffee, Dick noticed that he was feeling a bit of a draft. He discovered that his venerable Tilley shorts had a tear over 8” long. Sparing his blushes, I did not try to photograph the wardrobe malfunction. Like, many men, Dick prefers to keep comfortable clothes, no matter how well-worn or faded they may be, until disaster strikes!

Along the river, we passed a beautifully landscaped home on the waterfront. Interestingly, all the terracing is accomplished with old tires. A laudable effort at recycling, but we can’t help but wonder about chemicals leaching into the soil, and of course the river, as the tires age and the rubber deteriorates.

We also passed a plant that constructs new barges. There was one just completed, waiting on the rails to be slid down into the river. Chip tells us that they only launch on certain weekdays, so we did not have the opportunity to see one launched, it would have been fascinating!

We tied up on the wall at Monongahela Aquatorium. It was a very rough wall, with a part sticking out at the top about 15 inches, so mooring required careful use of lots of fenders. Two other large boats chose the low floating docks, but we felt the wall was a better bet for Nine Lives. It was a busy afternoon as boats gathered for an evening concert. Some anchored, some just drifted on the river, and a few rafted up once the wall and the floating docks were filled up. Rafting up means that after one boat is either anchored or tied up to a dock or wall, another boat will come alongside, and with lots of fenders on both boats, they tie to each other. Depending on the size of the boat and whether or not the first is well anchored or tied to a dock or wall, there can be three or four together. Everything depends on the first boat, and given what we have observed of the practices of our fellow boaters, we always prefer to be that first boat, the one that others raft to. As it happened, on this occasion, nobody asked us, and we decided not to offer.

By late afternoon, Dick joined me in the cockpit (bringing adult beverages), and was able to see what I find so fascinating when we are stopped in a busy spot while he sits below with his computer. It never ceases to amaze me how unprepared people are, especially in smaller boats. No lines ready, fenders put away in lockers, or hanging on the wrong side of the boat, and usually nobody with a clear idea of what needs doing except the captain, who is busy driving the boat and then jumps around trying to do everything else as well. Some of the antics are highly amusing, some less so, especially when they start drifting into other boats.

The concert began with a warm-up singer at 6pm. He was playing under a canopy above the main seating area, with no real sound system, so we couldn’t hear him. The main event began at 7:30pm, with an audience of 200-300 and about 25 boats. The group was Jaggerz. They have been around since the 1960’s, and had a #1 hit in 1970, The Rapper. They played a mixture of well received light rock, and a lot of B-sides. They never really grabbed the audience until the end of the last set. They invited a portion of the audience down in front of the stage with a dedication to veterans and a rendition of Proud to be American, and kept them there, dancing to rock and roll, finishing with a grand finale of The Rapper. We enjoyed the evening, and marveled that two of the original band members from 1965, including the lead guitar and vocals, Jimmie Ross, are still performing. The hit song The Rapper, is not describing rap music. That began at street parties in New York City in the 1970’s. MC’s were tasked with keeping audiences lively during DJ breaks, and they did so by telling jokes and generally engaging with the audience, eventually adding music and becoming the entertainment in their own right. The rapper in the hit song refers to a man who seduces girls by telling lies. The Jaggerz play about 25 engagements a year. We enjoyed the evening, although it would have been better with a larger, and perhaps more engaged audience.

We were away the next morning by 8:30, with 3 locks and a stop for a pump-out ahead. We were welcomed back to Pittsburgh by the Fire Boat! Chip told us that they were, in fact, testing their pumps, but it was a nice greeting, and he and Dick chatted on the radio. Later the Fire Boat was positioned just off The Point, the park where 3 rivers meet, and Chip took a nice picture of Nine Lives with the fountain in the background.

Pennsylvania seems to favour coloured bridges. In Pittsburgh they particularly like yellow. Our Segway Guide said the yellow represents Pittsburgh being the Golden Triangle. However, other sources suggest a different story. Yellow and black are the colours of the sports teams, hockey, football, soccer, and baseball, chosen originally from the coat of arms of William Pitt, after whom the city is named. There are a number of yellow bridges in Pittsburgh, and I have been noticing others painted blue, green, and silver elsewhere on the Ohio River. Dick tells me that only bridges older than 20 years can be painted. New ones are built of self-healing steel, which must be allowed to turn rusty and cannot be painted. I looked it up. The way it works, is small capsules filled with a healing agent are dispersed through the metal. When cracks happen, the capsules break and release the healing agent which then reacts with the metal and fills the crack, preventing it from spreading and limiting further damage.

detail of one of Pittsburgh’s yellow bridges

Partway along the Allegheny River we passed the Heinz Factory. H.J. Heinz was founded in 1869. Their first product was ketchup. The slogan “57 Varieties” was introduced in 1896. At the time, Heinz did not have 57 varieties of anything, the founder just liked the idea and thought the number was appealing. Today, after a merger with Kraft, the Kraft Heinz company is the fifth largest food company in the world. The historic Heinz Lofts, that we could see from the river, is a complex of 11 buildings, including the unambiguously named Bean Building, Meat Building, and Cereal Building. Among other successes, Heinz pioneered safe and hygienic practices in the food processing industry, including innovations such as providing hot showers to employees, and weekly manicures for women who handled food products.

We were tied up in Fox Chapel by 2:30, although with 3 locks and a stop for a pump-out, it had been a long day. We had lots of help to tie up, and were glad to be assigned a slip and be somewhat protected from wakes. We did have to back out and reverse in, as again, the finger piers were too short for us to tie up bow-in. We rather stuck out into the fairway, but they are generously wide, and we didn’t seem to cause any problems.

In the evening we walked to Jimmy Wan’s, an Asian restaurant. After potstickers and spring rolls, we shared shrimp, chicken, and Singapore noodle dishes. The food was delicious, although not nearly as spicy as we would have preferred. The waitress told us that Americans don’t want even the spicy dishes to be very hot, which is interesting considering the popularity of hot chili, buffalo wings, and even some barbecue.

August 7 was a day for catching up, with a huge pile of laundry to be done. I made pizza (from scratch), and Dick was able to find bulbs at the chandler to replace the burnt-out light in my shower. He decided to do his at the same time. The pizza dough was a recipe I have had success with before, but I used a new method, and paired with my home-made pizza sauce that I brought from home, it was a very good one! Actually 3, with 1 ½ for the freezer.

The next day it was finally possible to put the registration and tax sticker onto the dinghy. Up to then we couldn’t reach it, but by backing into the slip, it put the dinghy right beside the dock. This makes us legal for about 2 weeks. The bill for the tax does not come from South Carolina until the end of the month. Dick pays it, and then they mail us new stickers – to Hilton Head Island of course! We would have to ask Kathy to send them somewhere that we expect to be for a few days, and that will accept deliveries and mail, and we would be counting on the vagaries of US Post Office. Then we would need access again to put the new sticker on. South Carolina used to issue tax stickers for 5 years, but now they do it annually.

Registration letters and tax sticker for the dinghy

Even the dinghy motor requires its own tax sticker

For some time (years in fact), we wondered about rusty water leaking out of an inlet on the back step. Last summer a fellow Endeavour owner solved the mystery, explaining that the rust came from a failed valve for direct connection to marina water. Dick had the valve fixed last winter, but Fox Chapel was the first place we stayed for a few days where the water was in a convenient place to hook up. It made a big difference, especially as laundry requires several fillings of the water tanks. We did notice when we arrived at our next stop, that some of the water in the tank is also being used, as they took a long time to fill. So, it is still something of a mystery as to how the direct connection works vis a vis the water tanks.

Water set-up directly from marina water, no need to keep filling the tanks.

Dick changed the oil in the generator. This year so far, the generator has run more than the engines, because of all the “free” town walls and docks we have stayed at, plus the few anchorages. The savings from not having to pay a docking fee are somewhat used up when it’s hot and the generator has to run to provide power for cooking and especially air conditioning.

The day was cloudy and windy, but the clouds disappeared and the wind died down just in time for a long, uphill walk in the heat to the restaurant. It was a mix of good and indifferent. Dick enjoyed his frito misto, but my trumpet mushrooms were too undercooked, so they were chewy and had little flavour. Dick’s branzino was good, and my mushroom bolognese was delicious. We were too full for dessert, although Dick had some gelato. Fortunately, the walk back to the boat was all downhill!

The lockkeeper on our return to Pittsburgh was an absolute pill. He chose to tell Dick off for contacting him on arrival at the lock by radio after he had spoken by phone, even though his instructions on the phone were ambiguous. He then proceeded to explain in detail how the lock is prepared and when the doors can open. We had different staff on the upbound trip, but also rude, opening only one side of the doors, and not responding at all to contact by phone or by radio. It is fascinating that the lockkeepers on each river seem to have a different culture. Those on the Ohio have been consistently professional and helpful, while those on the Monongahela, equally professional, were also friendly and chatty. Remembering previous rivers, polite and professional on the Mississippi, but abrupt and actually obstructive on the Illinois. In fact, we have read many accounts of Loopers having exceptionally long waits and rude treatment on the Illinois. Glad we won’t be visiting that particular river again!

We had hoped to arrange for delivery by truck for diesel while at Fox Chapel. Dick was initially given the name of one company, who said that as of this year they are no longer able to deliver fuel unless the boat is out of the water. This is a new Coast Guard rule, requiring a license, and spill mitigation equipment to be carried on the tanker,so that particular supplier has chosen not to deal with it. After we were in the marina, Dick discovered that there is a company that has the license, and delivers, but because we were so late in calling, we could not get a delivery in time. This meant we had no choice but to get some diesel at the only marina in the area that has it. With a captive audience, they are charging $7/gal, more than we have ever paid anywhere. To add insult to injury, the docks are self-serve, as is the pump-out machine. Dick asked the lady in the office when he called, whether the pumps automatically shut off at a certain dollar amount, and was assured they do not. We tied up, started the diesel pumping, and began with the pump-out. When that was completed, we discovered that the diesel had shut off. Dick started it again, and at that point, a dockhand wandered down and asked if we needed any help. Yes, about half an hour ago! He stayed and chatted, probably hoping for a tip. None was forthcoming. Dick only put in enough fuel to get us back to Cincinnati, where we know there is an excellent, and not self serve, fuel dock.

A beautifully kept sternwheeler moored on the Allegheny River

American Heritage, a sternwheeler cruise ship, docked in Pittsburgh

Mt Washington, Pittsburgh, South Side, and the Duquesne Incline, funicular railway. In the foreground is Point State Park and the Fountain

The Grand Concourse, Station Square, from the Monongahela River in Pittsburgh

On arrival at South Side, we discovered most of the long dock was covered in goose poop. We didn’t want to be too close to the pump-out machine, given the incompetent boaters that abound in these parts. Dick spent 45 minutes clearing about 100 feet of dock before we could get properly tied up and power connected. We would be there for 7 days. On approach, we passed the Fire Boat and got a toot- toot and a wave from Chip before he rushed off on Fire Boat business. Another pest on the docks at South Side is the incredible number of lantern bugs. These are a flying insect, an invasive species originating in China. They are everywhere, but fortunately are relatively easily squashed. They were first seen in 2014, and given the numbers we are seeing, they are increasing rapidly. Depending on the direction of the wind, Dick had to move debris and floating garbage away from Nine Lives as it gathered up against the docks. This, along with the goose poop and heavy wakes from tows and inconsiderate boaters, make South Side a less than pleasant marina to spend a week in.

Dick cleaning the dock at South Side Marina

Moving debris away from the boat at South Side Marina, this had to be done most days.

Dick collected the rental car. It was a pickup truck, not what he would have chosen, but better than the small city car that was the alternative.

Something over 30 years ago, I attended a conference in Pittsburgh, and ate in the glorious Grand Concourse, the former railway station. I enjoyed one of the best meals I had ever had. After listening to me talking about the experience for years, Dick earned himself some big brownie points by finding that it is still a fine dining restaurant, and making a reservation. I had been looking forward to this for weeks. The evening began poorly, as we were whisked through the stunning Grand Concourse, and shown to a middle table on a balcony. The maître d offered to try to find us a table in the main room, but Dick likes a cityscape, and basically didn’t want to bother. From that inauspicious start, the evening deteriorated. We ordered our usual glass of something bubbly, and it took 15 minutes for the waitress to come and tell that they didn’t have what we had asked for. We waited another 15 minutes for the alternative. Starters were ordered, and eventually arrived, and Dick ordered a bottle of wine. Half an hour later, he was told they were out of that too. By this time, we thought it was too late for a whole bottle, so wine by the glass was ordered. The main courses eventually arrived, and were okay, but not exceptional. Altogether we were 2 ½ hours for a 3-course meal and 2 glasses of wine. The restaurant has been taken over by Landry’s, a chain we are familiar with from when we lived in Houston. They buy up successful restaurants in good locations, and subject them to corporate dumbing down and cost cutting. The food is generally good but essentially uninspired. The Landry’s in Hilton Head closed. Uninspired was exactly our experience, apart from the ridiculous problems with the wine. We returned to Nine Lives long after dark, and had to pick our way around the goose and duck droppings as well as we could. Fortunately, most of the geese were at the end of the dock where Dick hadn’t cleared. There was lots of rain in the night, some heavy, but that stuff does not wash away.

The Grand Concourse, where we had expected to sit

Caprese salad at Grand Concourse was not a bad start

Grand Concourse Parmesan snapper and shrimp, with a miserable serving of overcooked asparagus

Planked shrimp, orzo, and there is the rest of the asparagus

Dinner at Grand Concourse took so long it got dark

August 10th was a quiet day. It was rainy, so Dick found it easy to resist the temptation to get on his bike and explore. Instead, he stayed in and worked on the print version of the blog. The dockmaster came and cleared the rest of the goose poop from the end of the dock. He then attached silver tape between pylons and electrical posts. In theory, this will discourage the ducks and geese from roosting there. Apparently, they have tried various solutions, some quite expensive. Large windsocks that shred, don’t make any difference. Strobe lights close to the dock were almost all broken, either by boats running into them, or by being kicked. The $3 rolls of shiny tape are the most effective, but I have to say they look very much like a police investigation is underway! After a few days of getting increasingly tattered, the tape also loses its effectiveness, and the geese are back roosting and making their mess.

Dinner at Paris 66 Bistro was a much better experience. It had a very authentic ambience, with an incredible aroma of garlic! The onion soup was a compromise between the cheese and bread laden American version, and the overly restrained version that one finds in France, that has only a couple of croutons and a minimal grinding of cheese. Dick’s escargot were excellent. He also enjoyed his beef en daube. My trout meuniere, much admired by TripAdvisor reviewers, was good, but not at all what I had expected. I was looking forward to a trout filet, dredged in flour and pan friend in generous butter, served with lemon juice and parsley. Instead, the fish was poached in white wine and olive oil, and covered in chopped herbs with finely chopped capers. The dish is probably much enjoyed by American tastes that shy off butter, but it was quite different from what I had looked forward to (and it badly needed salt). Desserts were excellent – fruit tart for Dick and crepes flamed with grand marnier for me. The chefs resisted the temptation to dump a load of powdered sugar and whipped cream on my crepe, it was delicious!

Kir Royale (for a change) at Paris 66 Bistro

Fruit tart for dessert at Paris 66 Bistro

Paris 66 Bistro Grand Marnier Crepe flambee

From August 8 through 11, Nine Lives crew took the rented car to Canada, to Peterborough, Ontario, to attend a 90th birthday party for Dick’s Uncle George. It was great to see so many aunts, uncles, and cousins, and of course to spend time with Mum, Betty, and Ed. Friday evening, we returned to the great Indian restaurant that we discovered when we were on that part of the Loop. It was, if anything, even better. We did comment that of all our friends, only one couple would have enjoyed our extra spicy choices as much as we did!

Imperial Tandoor tandoor shrimp and naan bread

There was a bit of a delay at the border on our return drive, but we were back in Pittsburgh in plenty of time to get ready to go to Spirits and Tales. The son of good friends from Hilton Head is the head chef. The restaurant is on the 10th floor of an upmarket hotel in the University, so we had wonderful views and interesting architecture to look at. We had an excellent meal. Dick started with a wedge salad, and I had a very good onion soup. Dick’s seafood fettuccini was delicious, and I enjoyed my perfectly cooked wagyu burger with truffle fries. We shared limoncello cake for dessert, also delicious, and, for a change, not excessively sweet.

Wagyu Burger and truffle fries at Spirits and Tales

Limoncello cake with creme anglaise at Spirits and Tales

On our return to the docks, we were able to meet fellow Looper Jon, on Escapades, who is solo most of the time, but happened to be assisted for a few days by his sister. We enjoyed chatting and comparing notes.

Monday morning was our planned Segway Tour. There was the usual delay when the rest of the group, a family of 4, did not arrive 15 minutes early as requested, and then they had to disappear off to find a restroom before starting. It became clear during the 15 minutes of instruction and practice, that the boy (12 years old?), was not at all comfortable and was having a lot of difficulty getting used to the machine. The guide gave him extra time and help, and eventually we set off, crossed the bridge over the river, and the boy fell off. He was extremely lucky that he was just bruised. The fall could easily have happened in traffic crossing a road, or the machine could have landed on him and broken something. He and his dad walked back to the start, while the guide returned their Segways. Altogether, it was nearly an hour after the planned start before we set out again. It could have been a great tour, but it was quite rushed, with two hours condensed into one, and there was a bit too much riding on bumpy streets for my preference. We enjoyed it anyway, and got back to the boat before the rain started.

Piazza Lavoro and Mythic Source, artist installation with a yellow bridge and the Pittsburgh skyline in the background

Pittsburgh is another American city that has reinvented itself since the dangerous days of the 1970’s. From a filthy industrial town that subsequently lost its tax base with the demise of the steel industry in the US, it has become a centre of excellence in education, medicine and invention. Across the river from our marina are a number of research laboratories, and everywhere we go there are new buildings and old ones being renovated. Older neighbourhoods are being gentrified. The park on The Point is a great downtown green space, as is much of the waterfront on the Allegheny. The Oakland area of the University is a glorious mix of historic and interesting new buildings.

Pittsburgh skyline and the Andy Warhol Bridge from the Allegheny River

Oakland architecture including Allegheny County Soldiers Memorial

Reminders of the steel industry are everywhere. Not only in the form of derelict buildings (although those are mostly gone in the metropolitan area), but artifacts have been preserved and incorporated into parks and squares. One of these is the gantry that was part of a water treatment facility that was built in the late 1970’s to support one of the steel mills. Before the water treatment plant was built, scale, a hot, oily byproduct of rolling steel, was dumped directly into the Monongahela River, on occasion raising the temperature of the river by as much as 40 degrees F. The tilting retort, or Bessemer converter, from the first blast furnace, started in 1859 and in use until 1927 is preserved in Station Square behind the musical fountain. Another memorial is a slag pot. Slag is the waste from iron and steel-making processes, shipped in huge pots by rail, and it can be used for roadbeds, landfill, concrete, fertilizer, and of all the unexpected uses, aquarium gravel. Steel from the blast furnace is poured into ingot molds, that are then moved to another part of the plant after solidifying. The ingots are removed from the mold and stored for future use. In time, they are reheated to soften them, and then rolled into slabs. The slabs are further processed into plate, sheet, and strip steel.

Steel industry gantry from a water treatment plant

Musical fountain at Station Square. In the background is a tilting retort from the earliest steel works

As it happens, in Dick’s long career with Dresser-Rand, when asked, we always say that the company makes machinery for the oil, gas, and petrochemical business. This is, of course, true, but I am reminded that Dick’s very first customers, when he was a new salesman, were steel companies. Riding his bike around Pittsburgh, seeing the artifacts and reading the accompanying plaques, was a real trip down memory lane for Dick.

Following an afternoon of heavy rain, we pulled out the umbrellas and set off the Eddy V’s. This is a fine dining chain (done right), with restaurants in many states. It was possibly the best meal we have had this trip. The lobster tacos to start, were completely different from anything we have had before, and were delicious. Dick’s rack of lamb was perfectly cooked, and my parmesan crusted sole was a treat. Lately we have been served asparagus that is well past its prime, yellow and bitter, but here we had a generous portion of beautiful green stalks, cooked just right and seasoned. We also shared a side order of mashed potatoes with cheddar cheese and lobster, again a unique and delicious dish. Dick had berries with crème anglaise for dessert. I grumbled to the waiter that the problem with sharing-sized portions of dessert is that we don’t get to choose what we would really like. He asked what I would have had, and told me he would surprise me. A perfect small portion of the bananas foster cake dessert was delivered, and even set on fire at the table! When the bill came, it was described as “celebration” and there was no charge.

Parmesan sole (and beautiful asparagus) at Eddy V’s

Mashed potatoes with lobster and cheddar

We were glad of the umbrellas as we waddled back to the boat after the big meal, skirting goose and duck poop. It rained all night. The next day was boat cleaning day. Nine Lives was vacuumed and dusted, bathrooms cleaned, and galley polished. Dick took advantage of the last day having a car and did a large grocery shop, visiting 3 different supermarkets and replenishing our stocks of heavy things like beer and fizzy water.

Nine Lives on the dock at South Side Marina

Later, we were delighted to host Nancy and Fred’s son Chris, the chef, and his lady, Kristen, for docktails. I had fun putting together a plate with some of the cheeses we brought from the Peterborough cheese shop, plus the Spanish cheeses we had on board. There were also various kinds of sausage, and some Iberico ham. We enjoyed the company very much, in fact I was having such a good time I forgot to take any pictures! We hope to meet them again next time they visit Hilton Head.

Better weather allowed Dick to get out on his bike for some exploration the next day. I worked on the blog while he rode on the Heritage Trail for several miles down the Monongahela. Later, he put his bike into the truck to return to the rental car company. He enjoyed riding back much more than the 3-mile walk he had to do to collect the vehicle.

In the evening, we walked up to the Hofbrauhaus. This is the same organization that owns the very famous Hofbrauhaus brewery, beer hall, and Octoberfest venue in Munich. The first brewery started in Bavaria in 1589. They began brewing Bavarian beer in Michigan in 1997, and opened their first brewhouse and beer hall in 2003 in Newport, Kentucky. Hofbrauhaus Pittsburgh opened in 2009. It is very authentic, with typical Bavarian food, a variety of beers, and all served at long tables with benches. I am sure there are lots of opportunities for songs and “Oans, zwoai, G’suffa!” That traditional Hofbrauhaus song was written in 1935, and was first performed by a Bavarian brass band at a sausage market. We met Valerie and Chip for a reunion and farewell get-together. We had a great time (although none of us felt any need to stand on benches and sing), and we all look forward to our next meeting.