Intracoastal Waterway – The Voyages of Nine Lives

April 17th to May 2nd, 2025: Jacksonville to Hilton Head

Our first full day in Jacksonville was enjoyable. Dick set off early to collect the rental car, while I made apple cake in anticipation of visitors. Fellow gold Loopers Debbie and Steve dropped by to visit Nine Lives and share the apple cake.

Later in the morning the local harbor host came over to see if there was anything we needed. I chatted with him, but Dick was tied up with the lighting project and didn’t realize we had a visitor. I finished and published the next installment of the blog while Dick replaced the fluorescent light fixture in his bathroom. This was another electrical project that required 3 hands and a certain amount of adult language to complete. The bathroom is now exceptionally well lit!

Our dinner in the evening was at a French bistro, Restaurant Orsay. It was an enormous place, and at first it looked as though we would be seated in a very crowded, noisy place with tiny tables and uncomfortable looking chairs. However, our hostess led us through a rather dark concrete tunnel-like corridor (where the heck are we going!) past the kitchen, and out into a pleasant, spacious, and quiet area. We were also delighted to be seated at one of the larger tables.

The meal was mostly very good. I started with a smoked trout dip, served with interesting cornmeal biscuits. Dick ordered escargots, that came in puff pastry with a lovely mushroom sauce. I tried lobster pot pie for my main dish. The lobster was absolutely delicious, perfectly cooked, not tough as it can be sometimes, in a delicate sauce. The dish fell short because of roasted vegetables that were well overcooked. It may be an easy option, but it really is time to get rid of the fashion for roasting vegetables! Too often it is an excuse for using up produce that is past its prime, although that was not the case on this occasion, they were just burnt. The biscuit that served as the “pie” was a tasty traditional southern style biscuit, but the flavour was too intense, and it overcame the delicate lobster and sauce. I ignored the biscuit and enjoyed the dish with French bread instead.

There were several favourite offerings for Dick to choose from, but he decided on cassoulet, which he enjoyed.

The restaurant has a dedicated pastry chef on staff, and it showed. So often a meal is let down by mass-produced or frozen desserts. Here, one could choose a small version of several of the dessert offerings, so we decided to share 3. Dick’s favourite was a beautiful fruit tart, while I loved the raspberry mousse. We both liked the éclair, unusually presented with key lime filling and glaze instead of chocolate. It was a wonderful finish to an excellent evening.

Friday was a busy and interesting day. Dick set off for groceries in the morning. Shortly after noon we drove to Catty Shack Ranch Wildlife Sanctuary. Their mission is to rescue large cats that have been seized by law enforcement or are made homeless by zoos or private collections closing down. They have expanded to include other animals, and now have 2 bears and some coatimundi.

We enjoyed the visit, even though, as expected, most of the cats were sleeping as they do through most of the day. It is possible to attend the night-time feeding, so we may consider a future visit for that. These animals have spent their lives in captivity, some of them in terrible conditions, so they are used to being in enclosures. There is plenty of stimulation, including giant plastic balls, that given their scratched condition, are popular for playtime! The owner and volunteers get around in golf carts, and we were amused to see that if a golf cart stopped near an enclosure, the fast asleep kitty would immediately get up and come over to the fence, in anticipation of a little snack.

Even when the animals are elderly or infirm, they are looked after and provided with special ramps in their enclosures to allow them to enjoy a peaceful old age.

Elderly and infirm animals are well looked after and allowed to live out their years in comfort

In the evening, we went to La Cena Ristorante, a well-regarded Italian eatery. It was an odd experience. Reservations are only taken by phone, and the owner stresses the first of many rules, no young children, and no strong personal scents. A sign also repeats these requirements at the door. The whole first page of the menu sets out more rules in great detail. The rules are basically a push-back on the increasingly common practice of diners sharing just one appetizer and entrée. You can share an appetizer, but if you share an entrée, the upcharge will be the same as if 2 entrees are ordered. The same if you order a second appetizer instead of an entrée, you will be charged an entrée price. The whole meal must be ordered all at the same time. We fully understand why a restaurant may wish to make these policies, but we did notice that on a Friday evening, the venue was less than half full.

The meal was delicious, and we followed the proper Italian custom of a second, small pasta course between the appetizer and the entrée. A salad was included, as was the most delicious bread. As we arrived early for our reservation, the whole restaurant smelled heavenly. The bread is baked inhouse. In response to our compliments, a whole loaf was given to us to take home, just as we were wondering whether we dared ask if we could order a loaf to go

Saturday turned out to be a quiet day. After Dick completed the grocery shopping at a supermarket he had forgotten to visit the day before, I walked the docks in the marina and issued some invitations for docktails the next day. After that, it was very hot and humid, so we decided we would not do the afternoon outing we had planned. Either the heat or something I ate disagreed with me, so we also cancelled our dinner reservation for the evening. Dick’s wallet was happy for the reprieve, but we were both sorry to miss the venue – a steakhouse in a historic former bank building in downtown Jacksonville.

On Sunday we went for a short drive through some very attractive neighbourhoods near downtown. The housing is all different styles and sizes, at a guess, most date from between the wars. We also drove across the bridge over the Ortega River and through another attractive suburb. Here, the houses on the shoreline are much larger, many of them with imposing gates, while the homes further inland are smaller as the cross-streets get farther from the waterfront.

Late afternoon, we hosted docktails. There were just 5 of us, as we were competing with a marina pot-luck gathering. George joined us, he is a solo Looper from Texas. We enjoyed meeting him and sharing stories. It was great to spend time again with Sandy and Frank, and afterwards we went for pizza together. Their boat has just sold, and they are moving to a larger one with plans to go through the Panama Canal and up the West Coast. It is good news that higher-priced boats are still selling, gives us hope that Nine Lives will soon find a buyer.

Leaving the marina the next morning, we had to wait a few minutes for the railway bridge downtown. Then, as we passed the highway bridge, a gentleman in a waterfront high-rise took pictures and posted them on Nebo, wishing us safe travels.

East of downtown, the Saint Johns River is an industrial port. We met a huge vehicle carrier making its way upstream. Further downriver was an even bigger one, maneuvering into dock with no less than 3 port police boats hovering to direct other boat traffic if needed. Our timing was good, and their docking was completed before we got there.

The next excitement was two Coast Guard boats practising something, tearing back and forth, apparently chasing each other. The one doing most of the chasing had a gun in the bow. I decided that it would be prudent to take my pictures from inside the cockpit, rather than going out on deck as I usually do.

Coast Guard boats practising in Jacksonville Port

We are certainly back in the “Low Country”, with a lot of shallows and the channel meandering back and forth. We have to pay close attention to both charts. We passed the railway bridge, and the very narrow channel to one of the marinas on Amelia Island. In 2017, we tried multiple times to get into that channel with zero success. Although dredged, it was V-shape rather than U-shape, and Nine Lives with her two well-spaced hulls simply did not fit. It was our first really tough setback on our maiden voyage to bring Nine Lives round to Hilton Head. We had to continue on, into the inlet, and up the St Mary’s River with a small craft warning and very difficult dockage at the end. We shuddered as we passed that channel, which looks no better today than it did in January 2017!

We docked without incident in downtown Fernandina Beach, one of our favourite towns. As we enjoyed our early evening cocktail, we noticed a young woman with a skateboard. The docks here are only secured at night, and as we have seen in other places, it is a common thing for people to walk around and look at the boats. This young lady had the kind of skateboard with a large ball or wheel in the middle. Research suggests that they are highly controversial and quite dangerous. She was clearly wobbly, still learning how to use the board, and we wondered whether she and her skateboard were about to enjoy an unplanned swim. Sadly, it was a lot more serious. She hit the cover that goes across the dock (ironically, it’s there so people don’t trip on boat power cords and hoses), and she came off at speed onto the concrete dock. A nearby boater with medical training helped and medics were called. It was a reminder that NO wheeled vehicles of any kind should be ridden on docks.

A barge moves a dredge in Fernandina Beach. We called this the wedding cake barge!

We enjoyed a lovely walk around the town the next day. We bought some nice things, paused for a refreshing beverage at the famous (or infamous) Palace Saloon, and then we ate lunch in the form of some excellent ice cream. After that, a nap was required.

Fernandina Beach downtown from the marina

In the evening, we walked down a road with beautiful old homes to David’s, a restaurant we had visited a few years ago. It was a day early, but a lovely birthday dinner for me. There was even a candle on the dessert! We returned to a pretty sunset and enjoyed a postprandial glass of whiskey in the cockpit.

Bailey House, Fernandina Beach. Note the carousel horses on the porch.

Dick’s surf and turf was filet steak and a lobster tail

My surf and turf was filet steak and lobster risotto

A birthday candle on the dessert at David’s Restaurant

We left very late (after 11am) the next morning, because we only had a little over an hour to travel to St Marys. Even then, when we arrived our slip was occupied. They untied quickly and our docking was accomplished without drama. After we had time to settle in, the dockhand took us on a golf cart tour of the town. It was an interesting, and very opinionated tour!

In the 1700’s the Acadian diaspora took place in 3 waves, beginning in 1755. The British had been ceded what are today the Maritime provinces in Canada and some parts of Maine as part of the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713. Over the next years, some of the French residents at the time, the Acadians, participated in French military operations against the British. By 1755, if the Acadians refused to take an oath of allegiance, they were removed. Initially, they were sent to the 13 colonies, and the more troublesome the individuals, the farther south they were sent. 500 were sent to South Carolina, and 300 were sent to Georgia. Families were split up. Keep in mind that these would have been large, farming families, with grown sons and daughters. In some cases, women were sent to one place, fathers to another, and the children to a third destination. Some of the women are buried in the St Marys cemetery. What I found amazing when I researched the story was how determined the Acadians were. Many of them simply returned to their homes in Acadia, and were deported again. The second wave were sent to Britain and France, and even then, they took ship and tried to return. Many were shipwrecked or died from other causes. Ultimately, although none were sent to Louisiana by the British, it became a destination for the displaced Acadians, and they made their way there from the various places they had been sent. They became the Cajun people, and contributed to the rich heritage of Louisiana.

The land for laying out the town was purchased in 1787, and the City of St Marys was incorporated in 1802. It was the County Seat, twice, finally losing that status in 1923.

St Marys is the jumping-off point for visits to Cumberland Island. I have stayed in the very characterful Riverside Hotel twice. It was both eccentric and comfortable, and I am sure the dust on the stairs dated back to the 19th century! According to our guide, much of the commercial property in the town has been bought up by a billionaire. Most of the restaurants and shops are owned by him, although some are leased back to the previous owners. He built a huge marina (still partly under construction) to accommodate his 100-foot yacht. The docks appear to be fully functional, but there is no marina business there and no docked boats. We stayed at a small marina at the other side of town.

The town has always been quirky, and in the 8 or so years since I have been there, I saw definite improvements. We are told there is a huge housing tract of over 3000 homes about to be built nearby, but at the moment, there are no jobs or local industry. 20% of the current residents are below the poverty line. The nearby Kings Bay Submarine Base apparently does not provide much employment for outsiders, even though there are over 9000 people working there.

Orange Hall, a historic home in St Marys

We ate on board, then participated in a Loopers’ Zoom docktails session. We chose the “Misadventures on the Loop” section, and were able to regale the participants with several of our mis-judgements and “I told you so” stories. It was fun hearing other scary tales, although I suspect the lady who is just a few days into her Loop came away considerably more worried than amused.

We enjoyed a pleasant day in St Marys. The farm to market shop was a bit of a hike, so Dick took his exercise and came back with some interesting goodies. He also visited the small submarine museum. In the afternoon, we explored the shops. What looked like two similar home goods stores turned out to be something like an antique mall, but with lots of crafts and bric-a-brac as well.

We continued on to Locals Dockside, a waterfront seafood restaurant. We had a good meal with great service, perfectly cooked shrimp and fish, and piping hot fries. The side salads were very fresh and extremely generous in size.

Grilled seafood and vegetables at Locals Dockside

After the sun was low enough on the horizon to not be shining in our eyes, we sat in the cockpit for an evening whiskey. The Thermocell gadget was required, there were far too many no-see-ums! It did work well, so we will certainly be buying refills and using it on our balcony in Hilton Head.

In the morning, the bugs were impossible, so I had to give up my usual peaceful coffee hour in the cockpit. We wanted an early start anyway. The previous day, another large (Looper) boat had arrived and docked behind us, so getting out of the marina was going to be tricky, and best done at slack tide. For our landlubbers, that is the time when the tide changes, so the currents are at their least strength. We had about 10 feet in front of us for Dick to maneuver away from our berth. Good help from the dockmaster and his helper was needed to keep the stern and the dinghy from running into the dock, but it all went very well and we looked like pros!

We listened to the Coast Guard calling boats near the Amelia Island Inlet. There was a nuclear submarine about to enter the channel and make its way to Kings Bay Submarine Base. Several small boats were not paying attention and required multiple calls. When it became clear that the sub might be catching us up as we made our way past Cumberland Island, Dick speeded up so we didn’t have to heave to and wait, or possibly be asked to turn around.

Kings Bay Submarine Base is the largest construction project ever undertaken by the United States Navy. It was started in 1980, took 9 years to complete at a cost of $1.5 billion, and employs over 9000 people. As we passed, a gunboat eased out and hovered with its bow (and gun) pointing at us. Just making sure we were proceeding on our way and not getting any closer to the base. I did NOT step out on deck to take pictures!

As we arrived in St Andrew Sound we had wind opposing tide, giving us a roll on the bow. Dick cooperatively sped up for me. It didn’t really help with the motion, but it meant that it was only a few minutes before it was time to make the turn up the sound and the waves were off the stern. St Andrew Sound is one of several ugly inlets in this part of Georgia. It is wide and shallow, and shoaling means that you have to zigzag across rather than taking a direct route.

The channel that passes Jekyll Island is notoriously skinny, and we went through it at low tide. This may have been a misjudgement! After passing the marina and the public dock, both with extremely shallow water, even bare mud, on the land side, we came into a particularly shoaled section of the channel. Suddenly, Nine Lives was going uphill! We were in the mud. We were only slightly to the west of Bob’s Tracks, but for a few minutes it seemed as though we might run fully aground. We gently pushed through the mud, and eventually it got slightly easier and we were back in the channel.

Shallow water in Jekyll Creek. The inside of the dock is mud with just a few inches of water!

Bob’s Tracks is an app you can download to your charts. It is crowd-sourced, created by a number of boaters who travel back and forth along the ICW each year, and record their exact tracks. These are then combined to produce a single best recommended routing. Much of the time, the tracks are pretty much where the regular magenta line is, but it is in areas of continuous shoaling that it comes into its own. When we last passed through this area, there was no such app to help us. What’s more, we didn’t even have the contour features that are now part of Navionics on the chartplotter, nor did we have Aquamaps on our second, iPad-based charts. It has taken us a bit of adjustment to work out how I can best convey where we need to be for Dick at the helm. Bob’s Tracks are on my iPad, not the chartplotter that Dick has in front of him.

Later, Dick read the Waterway Guide advice for the Jekyll Island Creek. It says, “Do not go through Jekyll Creek at anything less than half tide rising.” We did it at dead-low tide, which was also a foot lower than normal because of spring tides! Might possibly have been a good idea to read that section before we arrived, rather than afterwards.

After that excitement, the rest of the journey to Brunswick went well and we docked without incident shortly after 1pm. Our friend Bob arrived to welcome us, just as we were adjusting the lines, so we roped him into helping (pun intended)! Later, we carried the makings of cheese and charcuterie across to their boat, because Asea is recovering from a mishap that resulted in a broken leg. It was great to spend time with them again. We always laugh a lot when we are together!

The next morning, Dick visited the farmers’ market, and then explored the town. The no-see-ums were impossible, so I stayed below and did some work on the blog and photoshop. This is not a good time of year to be living “outdoors” in the Low Country. When we are at home in Hilton Head in late spring, we stay inside.

Brunswick is a city with a somewhat checkered history. It was very prosperous in the mid to late 1800’s. During the mid-20th century some of the beautiful old buildings that remained from earlier, more prosperous times, were allowed to become derelict and were pulled down and replaced with mid-century modern establishments. The 14 fine leafy garden squares had nobody to save them, and roads were built through the middle of some of the ones that remained. Only 2 of the squares today retain their original size and shape.

One of the remaining squares in Brunswick

During WWII the Liberty Ships were built in Brunswick. There were steel hulled ships, 447 feet long, weighing 3500 tons. They served as cargo vessels and troop carriers. 99 were built for the U.S. Merchant Marines with the shipyard producing about 4 per month. In 1944, the Navy asked for 6 ships to be built, and the shipyard managed to build 7 of the vital ships in a single month.

Both Virginia and Georgia claim to have developed Brunswick Stew. It is traditionally a tomato-based stew with beans, vegetables, and originally small game meat such as squirrel or rabbit. Today it is usually made with chicken. Georgia’s claim includes the original stew pot! One story says that the stew was invented by a group of hunters. One man was left to look after the camp and make dinner. He was lazy, and simply threw all the ingredients into one pot. When the hunters returned, cold, and tired, a delicious stew was ready for them.

Today, Brunswick is a major seaport, one of two in Georgia, and its economy is mainly based on tourism and logistics. In the afternoon we walked into town to have a look around. There are a surprising number of restaurants, and it seems to be something of an antiques destination. Karen drove over from St Simons and joined us with Asea and Bob for dinner at Reid’s Apothecary. It was a great evening with good food and congenial company.

America Liberty, a 100-passenger cruise ship, was docked downtown. We saw her again later, passing us on the ICW when we were docked in Isle of Hope. As we approached the Highway 17 bridge, we could see the casino boat. Also, there were 3 car carriers docked in the South Brunswick River. It’s a busy port.

A barge collecting debris including derelict boats

Highway 17 bridge. We have see this from I-95, many times!

It was a long day, initially boring, but with areas of extreme shoaling where we had to pay close attention to the hazard warnings on the charts and follow Bob’s Tracks meticulously. In the charmingly named Old Teakettle Creek, we passed some markers that were high and dry with the spring low tide.

Markers high and dry on the ICW north of Brunswick

As we turned into Sapelo Sound, we could see whitecaps, so Dick decided to run fast until we were back into South Newport River. It was like stepping through a door – one minute it was very calm and very hot, and then we were in strong winds and cloudy skies to make me shiver. It even rained a little. Not enough, we decided, to need the windows rolling down. In hindsight, we should have rolled them down and swapped out the screen doors! As we entered St Catherine’s Sound, the waves got higher, and soon we were plunging up and down, and spray was coming over the bow like a giant green wave. Salt water came right over the cockpit and washed over me and everything on the starboard side of Nine Lives. Naturally, Dick was completely dry. As the huge waves crashed over the bow, Nine Lives slammed down into the troughs. Dick had already speeded up, and it helped somewhat, until it didn’t, and he had to slow down to keep control. Some waves threw us sideways. Fortunately, that part of the trip, although scary, nasty and wet, was short, and even as we made the turn into the Medway River, the waves were never quite broadside. As we made our way up the river, the waters gradually calmed, and we heaved a sigh of relief. This was probably our worst experience with waves, surpassing even our awful memories of the Neuse River from 2017. Our no-go criteria is 2-foot waves and 15 mph winds. This was 4-to-5-foot waves, and 20 to25 mph winds.

The excitement was not over. We were nearing the part of the river where we were to turn off, cruising in the centre of the channel as is prudent, with both charts showing 27 feet of depth. I looked over at the depth sounder, and said to Dick, “That’s odd.” That is one of the worst things you want to hear on a boat. The depth sounder was showing just 6 feet under us. Suddenly, we came to a juddering halt. Aground. Dick was right on it, and immediately put the engines into neutral. We were lucky, the high winds, and waves coming from behind, lifted us and we floated free. We can only conclude that the shoal marked on the charts has encroached far into the channel since the last time the Army Corps of Engineers passed this way.

After that, we were happy to have an easy docking with good help and the wind blowing us onto, rather than off, the dock. Once we were in, we could see the mess our adventure had made. Fortunately, we have good discipline and keep the cupboards latched, so nothing had fallen out inside the boat. The salt water that drenched the starboard side of Nine Lives came through the screens, which were quite dirty after weeks of travel. All of that dirt, plus the salt, was deposited on the windowsills, cushions, and even onto the back door, right up to the ceiling!

Salt water through the screens made everything filthy!

We ate at the rustic Sunbury Crab Company. We had been there once before (by car), so we knew that the food would be good. Great service, and a very chatty owner, made for a pleasant evening.

Commercial boats docked at Sunbury Crab Company

Queso and chicken wings at Sunbury Crab Company

There were heavy thunderstorms during the night, so everything was soaked in the morning. The side of the boat that faced the dock was coated with an amazing variety of insects. We debated whether the forecasted rain and wind was such that we should stay put for another day, but the next day was going to be even worse, albeit sunny. The no-see-ums buzzed around us as we untied and got underway. We timed our departure so that it would be slack tide when we got to St Catherine’s Sound. The plan worked, and the waves were not as bad as the previous afternoon. The period was also shorter, that is, the waves were closer together, so Nine Lives was not riding up and slamming down as she had the day before.

The next challenge was Ossabaw Sound, which is in two parts, joined by a channel called Hell Gate (really, even on the charts!) This is extremely narrow and shallow, and subject to wind tides. That means that a sustained wind can actually blow the water out of the channel. Fortunately, the wind was in the “right” direction, and we were still only a little after high tide, so the passage, much dreaded by Loopers, was uneventful. Once through Ossabaw Sound, the rest of the journey was pleasant and smooth, just the way we like it! We arrived at Isle of Hope Marina, our last stop on our Loop voyages, by 1pm.

There are incredible numbers and variety of bugs in this part of the world. Not only no-see-ums, which are as tiny and sneaky as the name implies, but also the large greenflies that give a very painful bite. Annoying, but fortunately not biting, are strange long-legged spider-like things, and of all the unexpected pests to find on a boat, grasshoppers!

The heat and the bugs kept us inside for most of the day on Isle of Hope, but we ventured out in the marina courtesy car to stock up on beer and to have a late lunch. The Driftaway Café has earned TripAdvisor’s highest accolades, and the food was certainly very good. The venue was decorated throughout by sea creatures painted on the walls and ceilings, and quirky tchotchkes. There were plants everywhere, and the decks and garden were lined with an amazing number of small pots with colourful flowers. Cleo, the customer support feline was dozing on one of the outside tables, waiting with the menu to greet the next diners.

Driftaway Cafe Customer Support Feline, Isle of Hope

The bugs were awful in the evening and first thing in the morning. We headed out at 9am for the final leg of our 8-year voyage.

We passed Thunderbolt Marina. Nine Lives will come here for new bottom paint and when a new buyer asks for a survey.

Crossing the busy ship channel of the Savannah River and going through the shallow Fields Cut were uneventful. We followed a gorgeous 100-ft yacht. Her name was the engaging, and slightly disrespectful Waddle We Do. As we came into Calibogue Sound we were surprised to see not one, but two cruise ships anchored off Harbour Town. One of them was American Liberty, who we first saw in Brunswick and again when she passed Isle of Hope. The other was American Eagle. Both are 100-passenger coastal cruising ships.

American Liberty anchored off Harbour Town, Hilton Head

We have never seen a Coast Guard boat towing an ATON before!

We arrived at the lock at Wexford, where we departed from in April 2018. Somehow the channel leading to the lock seemed narrower! Once in the lock, with only inches to spare on each side, Nine Lives looked huge! We were soon tied up on the guest dock, and had time to relax and watch the construction. Wexford is building a new, much larger harbour building and is also doing a major renovation to the clubhouse.

Nine Lives has returned to Wexford for a final visit

Later, I was able to join my bridge friends, even filled in for a hand, before the traditional wine and gossip afterwards. We spent a quiet evening (blessedly with many fewer no-see-ums) and woke to a pretty sunrise over the golf course.

Sunrise over the golf course and the harbour in Wexford

For the eagle-eyed, and mathematically inclined readers, you might notice a slight disconnect between some of our stated statistics. We collected Nine Lives in January of 2017, in St Petersburg. So we technically finished the Great Loop, and earned the gold burgee, this February when we passed under the bridge in Tampa Bay.

AGLCA awards the BaccaLOOPerate degree when we complete the Great Loop

In 2017, we spent a few weeks bringing Nine Lives to Hilton Head, where she was based in Wexford, behind our house, until April of 2018. During the summer of 2017, we went on a 3000-mile shake-down cruise (yes, 3000 miles, only Dick would call that a shake-down cruise). We went north, following the traditional route of the Great Loop, as far as Oswego on Lake Ontario and then returned. We had a decent boating resume before we bought Nine Lives, but we had never owned a large boat, and much of our most relevant experience was on sailboats and narrowboats. We did not know what we did not know! So we sailed off into the wild blue yonder, ever so slightly unprepared, but full of confidence. There were adventures and misadventures, and it was on this cruise that Tucker-cat decided that he is NOT a boat-cat, and prefers to remain on dry land. The following year, having added Nine Lives to the annual AGLCA fleet t-shirt, we set off on the first of our 7-year segments of the Great Loop.

Nine Lives leaving Wexford in April, 2017

To resume this year’s story, the next morning, Dick rode his bike to our friend’s house to retrieve his car, which he then parked at Palmetto Bay Marina. I spent the morning cleaning, including polishing the outside railings and cleaning the cockpit of accumulated salt grime. This was the day of our big party to celebrate Nine Lives and the completion of our epic journey. Perhaps it should be referred to as a pawty? Or, given that Nine Lives is a cat, we could talk about the purrrty.

Then there was nothing to do for a few hours, since the party was to be catered! In due course, a huge table arrived and was set on the dock. There was a certain amount of concern because there was a gusty wind blowing. We decided that drinks would be on the dock, and food on the boat. Five enormous trays of an amazing variety of hors d’oevres arrived next. Sausage rolls, quiche, cheese and charcuterie, shrimp, tiny flatbread slices, and a whole tray of beautiful macarons and fruit were spread out in the cockpit and downstairs in the salon.

We can certainly say that the party was a success. 37 people managed to fit themselves onto Nine Lives, spreading out between the cockpit, the salon, the foredeck, and even on the back platform. The food was excellent, and our serving helper kept the wine and beer flowing. Most of the guests had not been on Nine Lives before, so it gave them a chance to see what our floating home looks like.

Guests and food for the Nine Lives Pawty

In the morning, we took Nine Lives around the whole of Wexford Harbour for a last look at the lovely homes and gardens, and then out through the lock and the very short trip down Broad Creek to Palmetto Bay Marina. Nine Lives will stay there until she finds a new owner to take her on new adventures.

A Green Heron welcomed Nine Lives to Palmetto Bay Marina

As the helpful dockmaster assisted with our arrival and tying up, he commented, on seeing the gold burgee, that we were finishing the Great Loop, and he made the assumption that we had taken the usual one year and travelled the traditional 6,000 miles. We explained that in fact it had been 8 years and 20,000 miles, and his exclamation was “Did you get lost?” So yes, we got lost by seeing all but one of the Great Lakes, by going up the Mississippi, by venturing up the Ohio, the Monongahela, and the Cumberland Rivers, and this winter by following the Gulf Coast all the way around the Florida Keys. And let’s not forget, we also went through Lake Champlain and the Chambly Canal, followed by the Rideau. We visited places that most Loopers don’t see, including Lake Huron and Detroit, Cleveland, Sault Ste Marie, Minneapolis St Paul, Cincinnati and Pittsburgh, and Nashville. And all the wonderful small towns in between.

This is the close of the Nine Lives Voyages story. We anticipate that soon Nine Lives will sail off into the sunset with new crew, who are sure to love her as much as we do. There will be new adventures, and perhaps she will revisit many of the places that she has been with us. Thank you to all of you who have been with us on this journey. I am continually surprised and so grateful to hear that people are reading this story.

Our friends Sherry and Shel gave us this lovely plaque to celebrate our Great Loop

We are going to do other things, travel more and farther, visit friends far and wide, play some golf, and take some time to enjoy all that Hilton Head has to offer. One of the party guests left us some advice, that is entirely apropos:

Advice from a Sea Turtle

Swim with the current

Be a good navigator

Stay calm under pressure

Be well travelled

Think long term

Age gracefully

Spend time at the beach!

March 19th to April 1st, 2025: Florida Keys to Stuart

Our first full day in Stock Island was busy with laundry, getting the blog out, and as usual, Dick did some exploration. He returned from his walk with a box of huge croissants – American size, but authentic, from a bakery run by a French expat. Dick also scouted the route to the pizza restaurant we planned to walk to for dinner.

It was finally cooler and less humid (although that did not last long), but still more than I would have preferred to walk just over a mile in the sun. Stock Island is the industrial centre for Key West, with a large military presence. The housing is functional and uninteresting, and the rest is mostly industrial parks.

A Navy jet flies over the marina on Stock Island

The restaurant was very busy. We started with very nice breaded and fried mozzarella pieces with marinara sauce. Dick’s pizza was excellent, very hot and clearly just out of the oven. Mine had been sitting for a while and it was just warm. I expected that it would be tasty when reheated (sadly, it wasn’t). T-shirts worn by most of the staff proclaimed “Legalize Marinara”. Amusing, but misread by more than one person reviewing the restaurant. At the bar the next day, the T-shirts read, “Write drunk, edit sober”, a quote attributed to Hemingway, but in fact he never said that, quite the opposite.

The walk back to the marina was more pleasant after sunset, and we paused to watch a pickup game of soccer. The players were all very serious and competitive, but there were no angry words or behaviour, and no need for a referee, everyone was there to have fun.

Once at the marina, we paused to admire an unusual powercat, a Maine Cat. As we were pointing out the interesting features, the owners arrived and we had a lovely chat. They have only had it for 3 months and are still doing a lot of needed repairs and upgrades. Only about 8 of these were ever made.

Boat chores the next day, finishing the laundry for me, and Dick replaced the latch on the back door. He did a “temporary” repair a few years ago, replacing the spring. It was obviously a good job, because it lasted for years. The spring was still good, but the rest of the latch had simply worn out. The other project was replacing one of the small fans that are used to keep air circulating inside when AC is not needed. These fail regularly, so we keep replacements. They are a pain to install, requiring a certain amount of colourful language and at least 3 hands before the job is completed.

In the afternoon, we went over to the hotel bar, looking forward to the live music and a light supper. The music was truly awful. The woman took songs from our era, and mashed the melody and timing until they were completely unrecognizable unless you knew the words. Every song sounded exactly the same. It was so awful that we changed our plan and went to the restaurant inside the hotel. Different menu, but the food was fine.

A cocktail to expunge the memory of the awful music on Stock Island

We were signed up for AGLCA “Virtual Docktails” at 7pm. Dick joined the chat about catamarans, while I participated in the “Ladies on the Loop” group. It was a mixed group of future Loopers, a few in progress, and only two of us completed. I was very pleased that several of the ladies commented on our podcast on Segment Looping, saying how much they enjoyed it and how useful it was.

The next “outside” voyage was to Marathon. We ran fast, 15 knots, again, so it took just over 3 hours, but it was quite unpleasant. The swells were on the starboard quarter, and we had the rolling corkscrew effect, even though we were running fast.

On arrival at the marina, we went first to the fuel dock for a pump out and some diesel. Not the worst dockhand ever, but for sure in the top 5 (or would that be the bottom 5?) Dick was filling with fuel, so he was busy and the dockhand did the pump out. He seemed to think it was a big deal and implied that there should be an extra tip. He wouldn’t take the cloth Dick used to prevent diesel spill, instead he sent me around to the hazmat bin at the back of the building. His advice on the length of the finger pier at our slip was incorrect, so we backed in and tying up was a challenge, with no help and the cleats in the wrong places. About an hour after we were finally set, Dick got a phone call from the marina to ask when we expected to arrive!

Dick went to the airport to collect the rental car. On his return, his comment was, “What a crap place!” After a drive the next day to explore the area and about 20 miles south, I had to agree. We finished the excursion with a stop at West Marine for another cabin fan, and Publix for a few groceries.

On our arrival back at the boat, we had a near tragedy. As Dick was handing me the groceries from the cart, the cardboard handle on the box of beer broke, and the whole carton went splash! into the water. Dick quickly jumped aboard and grabbed the boathook, then (prudently) handed me his phone before stepping down to the bottom of the swim platform. Disaster was averted as the boathook brought the carton near enough to get hold of. Plus, Dick did not, on this occasion, take an unplanned swim. The whole episode was watched with great interest by the elderly couple on the sailing cat next to us. In fact, the lady reached for and was ready with their boathook just as Dick completed the retrieval. I was not sure whether she was expecting to use her boathook to rescue the beer, or Dick.

Marathon appears to be a mixture of apparently nice hotel complexes, government offices, medical facilities, cheap eateries, and industrial units. None are vacant or broken down, but the whole impression is one of ugly practicality with no thought to civic pride or beautification. Only the government and hospital buildings have any lawns or plantings apart from the hotel complexes. Boaters rush through Florida’s Panhandle and west coast with its charming towns and stunning beaches in order to get here and spend two months in a marina at double the dockage fees. Go figure.

Dinner was at one of the highly rated local restaurants. The starters were interesting and very tasty, if far too large for one person. I have noticed lately that the price of appetizers is increasing to the point that it is pushing the entrees. Probably because so many people share these days, and complain if the portion is not big enough for 2 or even 4 people. I found the main course disappointing, although Dick’s duck was very good. Mine was very much “home cooking” with mashed potatoes and gravy. If I wanted home cooking, we would have it at home. For a change, bread service and a side salad were included in the meals.

Escargot and portabella mushrooms at Barracuda Grill

Dick enjoyed the duck at Barracuda Grill

We did the “Keys” thing the next day, and just relaxed on the boat. In the evening, we headed over to the Hilton resort for dinner. The décor was, quite frankly, weird. The gardens had huge bright blue balls as pots for palms and large shrubs. The small, battery-operated table lights fall into the category of “what were they thinking?”. The food, while better than the previous evening, had some odd ingredients and combinations, as if the chef was trying too hard to be avant garde. Given the clientele eating at the other tables, mostly vacationing families, it was all very strange.

Table lights, best described as “unfortunate”

Faro Blanco Marina. The pelican does not care about the No Fishing sign!

In the morning, I noticed a rather oddly dressed young man on the sailing cat next to us. He had not been there when the boat arrived. He was wearing a Robin Hood hat, complete with feather. Shortly, he reappeared with another man and the captain of the boat. Apparently, one of the jib sails was stuck and could not unfurl. The young Robin Hood climbed up to the top of the mast, and was able to fix a shackle that had become twisted. He did not remove his hat. He did the whole operation with great confidence, but the impression was rather spoiled when I heard him ask his colleague to take a picture of him at the top of the mast so he could show it to his Mum.

We went for a Sunday drive, north this time. Miles and miles of nothing much except bridges linking keys that progressed to the 1960’s and stopped. Eventually, we got as far as Islamorada, a slightly more salubrious island, but still very much a land that time forgot. We had lunch at the highly rated and long-established Green Turtle Inn. It was very busy, and the food was pretty good. The bartender, a middle-aged lady, was dressed in a black t-shirt. When she came around the bar, we could see that the rest of her ensemble was a brilliant blue net ballerina’s tutu, and light blue knee socks.

There were four Looper boats on the other dock that night, for a total of at least 6 in the marina, but no attempt was made to get together for docktails. In fact, while we have received notice of several MTOA (Marina Trawler Owners Association) gatherings arranged in the last few weeks in Marathon, there has been nothing from Loopers, in spite of large numbers in town. Just another example of how different things are since we began in 2017.

As we sat enjoying the sunset, we chatted with our slip neighbours, 3 friends on a break on a sailing cat, from Pensacola. Later, the couple who owned the beautiful 75-foot Fleming that had arrived late in the marina, came by and we chatted. They had just joined AGLCA and are planning to do the Loop (in a smaller boat) in 3 years when their children finish high school. They are interested in power cats, so we enjoyed showing them Nine Lives and exchanging boating stories. I can’t imagine that downsizing from a 75-foot yacht to a 44-foot catamaran is going to work for them, so I hope they find another option.

After a quiet day we joined Beth and Calvin and another Looper couple at the onsite restaurant for dinner.

We planned an early start, but it was nearly 8:30 before we were underway. As we sorted out power cords, water hose, boarding ladder, and lines, we were eaten alive by no-see-ums. One more reason never to return to the Keys! In fact, that fairly brief experience has convinced both of us that we will forego the delights of the planned St Johns River side trip. Although it is reportedly a wildlife paradise, even its most ardent fans warn that the mosquitoes and no-see-ums are terrible. Thermocell and insect repellants can only do so much, and neither of us are willing to put up with small biting insects at the best of times.

We ran fast part of the way to Key Largo, then normal speed for the last hour. We were at the fuel dock by 12:30, unfortunately, just missing the dockhand who had left for lunch. We sat watching the boats coming and going from the fish market. The channel leading to the marina and the fish market is both narrow and winding, and most boats make a securite call before entering the channel, as there is not enough room for larger boats to pass each other. It is also quite shallow, although Nine Lives had no problem. When we finally got to our slip, we were greeted by a manatee! They really do look like a clay sculpture that is just being started. We knew they like fresh water, so Dick got his water bottle and poured. It seemed to be appreciated!

The narrow, and shallow, channel into the marina at Key Largo

A drink of water for our manatee visitor

We were next to a houseboat liveaboard. They had at least 4 cats, each of whom felt it necessary to sit in a window and pretend not to look at us. We spent a quiet evening with Dick’s great burgers for dinner.

One of the cats in the houseboat on the next slip, pretending not to watch us

We made an early start the next morning for a fairly long step to Fort Lauderdale. We began fast, getting to the Miami Ship Channel before noon. The weather was forecasted to kick up considerably in the afternoon, and, to be honest, travelling “outside” is very boring. The only interest is watching for crab pots and adjusting for wakes as fast cruisers go by. The forecast was correct, and we could hear a small craft warning broadcast by the Coast Guard.

Miami was fascinating, and since it was not a weekend, there were very few yahoo boaters about. We only needed 1 bridge opening, and were lucky to get there just in time, as it opens on a half hourly schedule. The rest of the bridges were high enough for Nine Lives to pass through the centre, although Dick had to lower the antennas for one of them. We enjoyed overhearing a highly amusing dispute between a bridge tender and a powercat. The lady wanted an opening, and the bridge tender said she was low enough to go through without an opening. There is a posted $1000. fine for demanding an opening if you have not lowered antennas. The discussion became heated, with the lady demanding “Just open the bridge!” and the attendant responding “We will see”. Eventually, the bridge opened for a sailboat. You can be sure that the other bridge tenders will have heard the discussion, noted the name of the boat, and will delay them as long as possible for every opening!

We passed the beautiful sailing cruise ship Sea Cloud Spirit. She will make her last cruise this year before having a refit to become a charter yacht.

One of the bridges with the sign promising a $1000 fine for asking for an unnecessary opening.

We arrived at the marina associated with the Hilton at Port Everglades by mid-afternoon. By this time, it had become clear that Dick’s hope to tie up for 2 nights on the Riverwalk downtown was not going to work out, so he increased our stay at the Hilton from 1 to 3 nights.

Fort Lauderdale’s Port Everglades is a cruise ship terminal with nearly 4 million cruise ship passengers travelling through per year. The city of Fort Lauderdale is known as the “Venice of America”, with 165 miles of inland waterways across the city. It also considers itself the yachting capital of the world, with over 50,000 registered yachts and 100 marinas. My thought is that if the many yachts of all sizes that are registered elsewhere (Caymans, Bermuda, Panama, etc) were included, the numbers would be a lot higher.

In the 1830’s there was a settlement of just 70 people, living along the New River. An attack on one of the farms by a band of Seminoles resulted in all the farmers fleeing as far south as Key West, and the settlement was abandoned. The area was essentially unpopulated until the 1890’s. Completion of the Florida East Coast Railroad was a significant improvement, and the city began to be developed. It was incorporated in 1911. I am continually reminded of just how young this country really is, compared to Europe and Asia. Our house in Yorkshire was built in the early 1800’s, years before much of this country was settled by the white man.

We walked to a nearby waterfront eatery, Boatyard Restaurant. It was a huge venue, and noisy as so many Florida eateries seem to be. Once again, we were seated beside a table with a loudmouth. The food was good, and by the end of the meal we had heard all about the salesman’s exceptional security software, although I gather it still has a number of bugs that need to be worked out but they are releasing it anyway.

Surf and turf, parmesan fries, and paella at Boatyard Restaurant

Key lime baked Alaska at Boatyard Restaurant

The weather continued to be unseasonably hot and humid.

Our favourite boat tracking app stopped working, for us and most other Loopers, following an update. In typical tech-guy fashion, users were blamed for the problems they were having. Instructions were given (and followed) with no resolution for 2 days. Eventually the tech department admitted there was a problem and released another update.

We spent an interesting and enjoyable afternoon in Fort Lauderdale. There is a hop-on-hop-off water taxi that takes you all over the city, and conveniently stops right outside the Hilton. We started with the stop at the Las Olas shopping area and Riverwalk. It was fun to look around the various art galleries, including the one where we bought our beautiful metal print that hangs in the salon on Nine Lives. We also found some lovely and unusual salad servers made from shells and horn. I’m going to have to start serving salads again!

A vending machine dispensing champagne instead of soft drinks in a Las Olas coffee shop

Next, we took the free, tiny water taxi that goes further up the river. It was interesting to see that there were a number of vacant spaces where we could presumably have tied up. However, since there is a reservation system (the one we could not access), there would be no way of knowing whether you would get kicked out of the space at some point. Also, the dockage is on the far side of the river, so not particularly convenient for the shops and restaurants. I would have had major concerns about security, although Dick would not have worried. He never does.

We arrived very early for our dinner at an Italian restaurant. The food was excellent. It was interesting that after so many packed restaurants, this one was nearly empty, even at 6pm. It was a nice change to be able to converse without shouting, although the selection of background music (I can only describe it as make-out music) was so intrusive that Dick asked if it could be turned down.

Branzino and lobster ravioli at It! Restaurant

We had a window table that offered great people watching. The number of women walking their designer dogs by carrying them was fascinating. Clearly, the concept of “exercise” is understood, but not for the dogs. The next day we watched a man walking a much larger dog, some sort of doodle, by holding the leash up so that only the dog’s back legs were actually on the ground. Of course, everyone has earbuds and is listening to music or talking on their phones.

After dinner, we got back onto the water taxi and took it all the way to the farthest stop and back. Looking at the multi-million-dollar houses was interesting. It would seem that $35 million will get you a nice waterfront property. There are some really beautiful older mansions from the early 20th century, but a surprising number are bought purely for the lot, and are pulled down and a modern glass and concrete structure is put up. One of these apparently cost $35 million to build, and then the owners parked their $35 million yacht in front, completely obscuring their view of the water.

A beautiful classic home in Fort Lauderdale

From left to right, an older single storey home, a modern mansion, and a now vacant lot about to begin construction, a common sight on the Fort Lauderdale waterways.

There are so many of these 100-foot plus yachts in the city. I wonder how many of them even go out, or are they all dock queens? Apparently, you can charter one, with crew and staff, for $345,000 per week. One also wonders how many of these actually get chartered.

Coral Ridge Yacht Club, only owners with yachts over 60 feet in length need apply for membership.

As the sun set, we could see how many of the waterfront properties were occupied. Fewer than half, although we thought that a higher percentage of the smaller homes that are a little farther out had lights on inside.

After a quiet day (Dick rode his bike to Fresh Market), we set off at 5:30 to have dinner at a nearby Indian restaurant. First, we stopped at an International Wine and Food market that I had found on google. We expected that they might have maybe 1 aisle of imported canned goods, and we hoped to find the tiny pickled sweet peppers that make a great addition to any cheese and charcuterie board. What a treasure trove there was! They had our pepper drops, but also an amazing variety of fascinating goods. We have limited storage on the boat, but we still find space for a variety of interesting and unusual items. I have never seen so many choices of pastry cups, as well as chocolate dessert cups in so many sizes. They had balsamic pearls, which are a lovely addition to a composed salad, and also pearls of other flavours, including simple olive oil, garlic oil, and truffle oil. There was even raspberry, and we failed to resist buying that one as well as the balsamic. There were also fridges and freezers full of unusual foods, but we had to limit ourselves to a couple of packages of charcuterie meats.

The evening continued to go well as we arrived at the Indian restaurant. We don’t normally order starters in this type of restaurant, but we tried some crisp battered and fried prawns, and some spicy fried cauliflower, both of which were delicious. Our main course dishes (lamb chops masala and shrimp rogan josh) were also excellent. Only the dal (lentil stew) was a mistake. It was tasty, but far too liquid for our preference. After an amazing feast we waddled back to the boat and enjoyed a quiet evening.

Dal, lamb chops, and prawns with naan bread and steamed rice at Indian Harbor Restaurant

The next day we were only going a couple of miles, so we planned a late start for 11am. As we were getting ready, 2 Sea Tow boats arrived to remove the sailboat in the slip beside us. It would have been interesting to watch, but our departure certainly made everything easier for them. Apparently, the sailboat was supposed to have left a week earlier (and presumably the owner had stopped paying for the slip). It is interesting how quickly a marina is permitted to have a boat towed away, compared to how long it takes for a derelict boat at anchor to be allowed to be removed.

Our arrival at Bahia Mar Marina was not our best docking effort. We were assigned a slip beside another boat, and between a strong wind (small craft warning for the area), and a tidal current, plus backing in, it was a bit of a shambles. It was made a lot worse by a dockhand who was worse than clueless. As they often do, he refused to cleat the midships line tight, so we drifted into the boat beside us. Fortunately, the owners were not on board to notice when we nudged them, and no harm was done.

In the afternoon, a plane went past with a banner, XIARA. WILL YOU MARRY ME? (not sure why someone thought a period was required after the name). Another plane advertised a place with a “full liquor bar” Saturdays and Sundays. Interesting juxtaposition. Next, we saw a panel truck with full LED screens on all sides advertising a nightlife establishment. It was followed a few minutes later by another truck advertising medical screening. The third one offered fruit juice, and the fourth suggested you try a local strip joint.

I noticed on the plan that our next stop was only one night, and with plans to eat on board. When asked why, Dick answered that he just wants to get out of this “stupid rich” area. Given what we have seen on the water and walking around, the adjective fits, however you interpret it.

We planned a mid-afternoon meal at Coconuts, a Fort Lauderdale institution, according to our water taxi guide the previous day. Unfortunately, the time that the heavy rain and thunderstorms were supposed to stop kept moving later and later. Eventually, we would have been fighting the crowds and standing in line, and with no certainty that we would not get wet on the walk back, so we gave up on the idea and stayed on board.

Loopers who had been in two previous marinas at the same time, but we had not met them, arrived in the middle of the heaviest storms. They had planned to take a mooring ball, but all the floats on the pennants were missing. They were able to get a slip in the marina. Later, they dropped by for a chat and to hear about Hilton Head Island. We hope to coincide with them again as we head north.

We managed a fairly early start and enjoyed a delightful day travelling up the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway). We loved looking at all the interesting houses. We had to ask for openings for 6 of the bridges, but the timing worked very well, and we were never held up for more than a few minutes.

A bridge opens for us in Fort Lauderdale

Remember When, an Endeavour Skylounge in Boynton Beach. We met them in 2017 on the Alligator River in North Carolina, and again at the marina in Stock Island.

At Palm Beach, we passed a certain well-known mansion and exclusive golf club. Fortunately, the owner was not in residence, as when he is, one of the bridges across the ICW has limited or no openings, so that “visiting dignitaries” are not impeded as they access Palm Beach.

We arrived at Palm Harbor Marina and had a somewhat tricky docking, due to maximum tidal current and a windy day. Two dockhands showed up to help, but it was a bit chaotic.

Shortly after our arrival, a 62-foot Princess yacht arrived and backed into the slip beside us. As he was arriving, an army of cleaners (four) came bustling down the dock with an amazing assortment of cleaning equipment. Two hours later, they gathered up their paraphernalia and headed off, leaving a show-ready boat behind.

Dick had decided at the last minute that we would have dinner out after all. There is a well-known Italian restaurant next to the marina (although the sheer size of the marina meant a ¼ mile walk!) It was a great evening. We loved the retro style of the huge venue, and, for a change, even though the place was full and with a line of hopeful diners waiting to be seated, it was not so noisy that you had to shout, you could actually have a normal conversation with your dinner companion. I started with a delicious skewer of grilled shrimp, and Dick’s grilled calamari was also excellent. The mushroom and pepperoni pizza I ordered was one of the 5 best I have ever eaten. I usually eat half and take home half, but it was so amazing that only one slice remained for taking away. Dick had a most interesting pasta dish with a ragu sauce, meatballs, and an surprising variety of different shapes of short pasta, all in the same dish. Dessert was out of the question for me, but I enjoyed a chocolate laced cappuccino, while Dick rounded out his meal with a scoop of excellent gelato.

Pizza and pasta at Elizabetta’s Ristorante

We were lucky to fit the excursion in between thunderstorms. The rain began again just minutes after our return. On a hot and humid evening, the last thing you want to do is wear waterproof jackets! Dick has just seen a news item that temperatures in Florida are approaching record highs in advance of a cold front expected next week. Bring on the cold I say!

One would think that a marina designed for 60-foot yachts up to mega-yachts would be easy for a little (!!) 44-footer to get into and out of. Not so. Basically, the cleats are all in the wrong places, making it all but impossible to close-tie for the initial arrival and for departure.

I noticed that this marina has far more security than we have ever seen before. There is a guard at the parking lot gate. There are the expected key card gates for each dock, but also 24-hour roving security guards. As we arrived, I could see a police boat patrolling up and down the area. Clearly, the rich are different. The slips in the marina are smallest at the north end, and each dock has larger slips as you move south. The most distant yachts in the picture will be the largest. I looked it up, and the suggestion is that a superyacht is over 100 feet in length, and a mega-yacht will exceed 200 feet. We have seen a great many superyachts in the last couple of weeks, and quite a few mega-yachts. They are often flying a foreign flag and show a hailing port of Georgetown (Cayman Islands) or elsewhere. There will need to be special permits, and probably they will have to leave the USA after a certain amount of time, and can then return, but when you are wealthy enough to own and crew a mega-yacht, you can easily send it to another destination, without having to go yourself, as it will have full-time crew.

Palm Harbor Marina in West Palm Beach. The yacht beside Nine Lives in the second row is 62 feet long. Superyachts and mega-yachts in the back rows.

In the morning, the bridge opened for one of the biggest sailing cats I have ever seen. She had a pilot boat in front, with a red flashing light, much as a wide load has an escort on the highway.

We congratulated ourselves on getting an early start, but then we had to hold up and wait while a cargo ship arrived from the Lake Worth Inlet. It was fascinating to watch. He turned completely around in the channel and backed into the wharf. Nearby is a beautiful old property that Florida Power and Light has turned into a manatee eco-discovery centre. A great use of a lovely building that, being next to a gas-fired power plant, would otherwise be uninhabitable.

A freighter turned fully around to back into the slip (left side of the image) in the ICW channel at Lake Worth Inlet.

We enjoyed passing Jupiter Island, with its large lots, and beautifully landscaped and secluded houses. Interesting, while many of the houses are large, they do not seem to be the sprawling mansions that we saw further south. This is probably an area that we would like to live in (except for having to live in Florida). There is also the minor detail that some of the wealthiest individuals in the United States make Jupiter Island their home, so it is unlikely we could come close to affording it! Tiger Woods’ estate is there, but not visible from the ICW. Other notable residents include several other well-known golfers, Serena Williams, Celene Dion, Alan Jackson, and various members of the Bush family. On second thought, while we love the look of the properties, we would most certainly not fit in with that community! North of Jupiter, the properties are more modest, with fewer large yachts, although there is evidence that even there, smaller homes have been torn down to make room for big mansions.

This is not the first time we have noticed that the boat is as big as the house. No view from the expensive waterfront property.

Osprey on the nest in the St Lucie River. Note that the speed limit in the narrow, shallow, channel is 25 mph. There are many shoals, and a big wake could easily knock you out of the channel.

Travelling up the wide and very shallow St Lucie River was interesting, can’t imagine what it would be like on a weekend as fast boats go whipping by at speed. The voyage finished with an exciting set of bridges. Heading west, you first pass under the highway bridge, with a fairly narrow space between the pylons. Then there is a relatively small basin, that was already full of smaller boats and one sportfish, waiting for the railway bridge to go up. This track used to serve only freight, and the bridge was up most of the time. With the introduction of the Brightline, an east coast Florida passenger service, with about 18 trains per day, this bridge is now down more often than not. Behind the rail bridge is a road bridge, with a bridge tender, that has to be raised for all but the smallest boats. Fortunately, the bridge tender was very clued in, and the passage through the two bridges was smooth for us. Behind us was a huge 80-foot power cat, and the bridge tender did a great job, holding up the oncoming boat traffic to give him room to get through the narrow openings.

Looking back at the 3 bridges at Stuart. Note how little space there is for the big cat to get through the highway bridge pylons, even less at the railway bridge!

We are again with the big boys in a huge marina, but not quite as enormous as our slip neighbours of the previous few stops. We chatted briefly with the owner of a big Hatteras, after I noticed that he was flying a burgee that depicted a lighthouse that looks remarkably like the one in Harbour Town, Hilton Head. He confirmed that it is, and told us that the boat is generally in Shelter Cove most summers. We agreed how much we like Hilton Head, particularly the miles of safe bike paths!

Dinner was a mixed bag. We started with the best spinach, crab, and artichoke dip we have ever tasted. I wanted to order some to take away and keep in the freezer, but Dick vetoed the idea. The main courses were disappointing, basically, they lacked flavour and particularly salt. We realized too late that we should have taken our slip neighbour’s advice and ordered sushi.

After dinner we strolled around the charming town. There are lots of little boutiques and restaurants. However, most of the boutiques are beachwear type ladies’ shops, and the couple of art galleries were just not interesting enough to walk over there in the heat and humidity when they would be open. Instead, we will stick with Plan A, and Dick will ride his bike for groceries and other errands while I do a minimal laundry and finish this issue of Nine Lives Voyages. The weather is going to continue to be unseasonably hot and humid, getting warmer over the next week. The humidity is at 90%.